rubicon express 3.5in xj lift
09-18-2011, 09:11 AM
#1
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rubicon express 3.5in xj lift
ok so i just purchased a 3.5in rubicon express lift kit for my 2000 xj and im wondering how difficult its goin to be? the kit is the super-ride 3.5 lift kit with add-a-leafs(goin to buy spring pack in 2-weeks)... I am goin to purchase trac-bar and new tie rods in the next couple of weeks also... So i am wondering if i need anything else before i install the kit..
09-18-2011, 09:43 AM
#2
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Year: 2000
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ok so i just purchased a 3.5in rubicon express lift kit for my 2000 xj and im wondering how difficult its goin to be? the kit is the super-ride 3.5 lift kit with add-a-leafs(goin to buy spring pack in 2-weeks)... I am goin to purchase trac-bar and new tie rods in the next couple of weeks also... So i am wondering if i need anything else before i install the kit..
Last edited by countryboy215; 09-18-2011 at 09:46 AM.
09-18-2011, 11:05 AM
#3
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Year: 1996
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ok so i just purchased a 3.5in rubicon express lift kit for my 2000 xj and im wondering how difficult its goin to be? the kit is the super-ride 3.5 lift kit with add-a-leafs(goin to buy spring pack in 2-weeks)... I am goin to purchase trac-bar and new tie rods in the next couple of weeks also... So i am wondering if i need anything else before i install the kit..
My question to you is this. Why didnt you just spring for the kit with full leaf packs? i would not, NOT want to put in the AAL, then buy new stock packs to put it back in there a few months later. A full pack would have been the way to go so the spring rate is all the same and you do it once and you are done.
EDIT: i see you said 2 weeks later... again, either wait til you get new packs, or just sell those AAL and buy the RE leaf springs, you can buy them seperate, contact FrankZ on here, Serious Offroad Products.
09-18-2011, 11:14 AM
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when in doubt... cut it out!
if there is a problem bolt, cutting it is the easiest.. not always an option, but if it is, then go for it. should be using new hardware, anyways, as old stuff is well used and worn (even if you clean it up 
)
have fun with the install... soak **** in PB blaster fora couple days before.. it will help. be methodical, dont rush or get too drunk, or do... idk, its your ride!! haha... you will prob be ok w/o a tc drop/sye at 3.5 inches. but if she vibes, then a front ds from a doner jeep will siffice... whats the tire set up? while im at it, im gonna throw this link to a thread all about low cog suspension desing while allowing for bigger tires. im talkin 36" swampers on 3.5" lift and minimal trimming... check it!
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/low...ks-tips-32980/
)have fun with the install... soak **** in PB blaster fora couple days before.. it will help. be methodical, dont rush or get too drunk, or do... idk, its your ride!! haha... you will prob be ok w/o a tc drop/sye at 3.5 inches. but if she vibes, then a front ds from a doner jeep will siffice... whats the tire set up? while im at it, im gonna throw this link to a thread all about low cog suspension desing while allowing for bigger tires. im talkin 36" swampers on 3.5" lift and minimal trimming... check it!
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/low...ks-tips-32980/
09-18-2011, 11:28 AM
#5
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if there is a problem bolt, cutting it is the easiest.. not always an option, but if it is, then go for it. should be using new hardware, anyways, as old stuff is well used and worn (even if you clean it up )
have fun with the install... soak **** in PB blaster fora couple days before.. it will help. be methodical, dont rush or get too drunk, or do... idk, its your ride!! haha... you will prob be ok w/o a tc drop/sye at 3.5 inches. but if she vibes, then a front ds from a doner jeep will siffice... whats the tire set up? while im at it, im gonna throw this link to a thread all about low cog suspension desing while allowing for bigger tires. im talkin 36" swampers on 3.5" lift and minimal trimming... check it!
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/low...ks-tips-32980/
)have fun with the install... soak **** in PB blaster fora couple days before.. it will help. be methodical, dont rush or get too drunk, or do... idk, its your ride!! haha... you will prob be ok w/o a tc drop/sye at 3.5 inches. but if she vibes, then a front ds from a doner jeep will siffice... whats the tire set up? while im at it, im gonna throw this link to a thread all about low cog suspension desing while allowing for bigger tires. im talkin 36" swampers on 3.5" lift and minimal trimming... check it!
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/low...ks-tips-32980/
all great info for you. the only bolt i would recommend NOT cuttin is the front leaf spring bolt, if you cut that you will be forced to drill and tap, that wont be fun. I had to actually cut the eye off the leaf pack, then cut off the eye to get to the bushing. then sliced the bushing off, then found the seam line on the metal sleeve and take an air chisel to help seperate it, used lots of heat and PB to get the bolts out.
And as far as the 3.5 super ride parts. initial lift heigh I measured was 4.5 gain. since i bought new rims since the measurement, and i dont have centercaps yet i cannot measure now that i have driven a couple hundred miles. I would really seem to think that with a 2000 XJ he is going to need the TC drop to help it at first, but will probably need a SYE, i cant see it settling an inch, but i could be wrong. But also remember I got full leaf packs. with the AAL you may sit lower in the back, but thats not going to change whether or not you need to do a TC or SYE.
I did a TC on mine while doing the lift.
09-18-2011, 02:39 PM
#7
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You are in for a world of fun my friend. I got the SF kit with full leafs last year, and have loved every minute since! I also got the adjustable track bar and extended front brake lines... Not totally necessary, but I feel it was worth it.
The major pain areas I had were the leaf bolts and rear shock bolts. I'd been hitting ALL the bolts with PB (and tapping with a hammer for good measure) for a MONTH before I did my install, and I still broke all four of the rear shock bolts. Ended up drilling and re-tapping, and they've held ever since - however, I wish I'd knocked out the old nuts and put in new ones...
Got all the leaf bolts to un-thread from the weld nuts inside the subframe, but the front ones stuck inside the leaf bushings, so I had to cut them out. Sawzall is the way to go here - started with an angle grinder, and the sawzall ended up being alot easier. Had to make the cuts between the leafs and the mounts so that the leaf would slide out, then the bolt head and end would fall right out of the mount. The rear bolts wouldn't pull all the way out because of my hitch, but I just had to cut the heads off, then knock them back out the other way.
The front end was comparatively easy.
Had some of my awesome friends helping during the whole thing, which was HUGE - no way I would have gotten it done on my own. Got a general thread for my rig here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...heila-1005744/ Bunch of pictures from during the lift...
If you have any questions, feel free to ask. PM me if you want and I'll give you my cell #, in case you run into any immediate issues.
Final note: I do NOT have a TC drop or SYE installed. I have the adapter and new driveshaft for the SYE, but that's been sitting in my apartment for a year now... Building a house (with a GARAGE!!) and I'll get to it sometime after that's done... Anyway, point is, I haven't needed either, and I've had only minor driveshaft vibes - they usually occur around 45mph, and I can either speed up or slow down to avoid them. Not necessarily the way yours will turn out, but yeah...
GL,HF!!
I got the SF kit with full leafs last year, and have loved every minute since! I also got the adjustable track bar and extended front brake lines... Not totally necessary, but I feel it was worth it.The major pain areas I had were the leaf bolts and rear shock bolts. I'd been hitting ALL the bolts with PB (and tapping with a hammer for good measure) for a MONTH before I did my install, and I still broke all four of the rear shock bolts. Ended up drilling and re-tapping, and they've held ever since - however, I wish I'd knocked out the old nuts and put in new ones...
Got all the leaf bolts to un-thread from the weld nuts inside the subframe, but the front ones stuck inside the leaf bushings, so I had to cut them out. Sawzall is the way to go here - started with an angle grinder, and the sawzall ended up being alot easier. Had to make the cuts between the leafs and the mounts so that the leaf would slide out, then the bolt head and end would fall right out of the mount. The rear bolts wouldn't pull all the way out because of my hitch, but I just had to cut the heads off, then knock them back out the other way.
The front end was comparatively easy.
Had some of my awesome friends helping during the whole thing, which was HUGE - no way I would have gotten it done on my own. Got a general thread for my rig here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...heila-1005744/ Bunch of pictures from during the lift...
If you have any questions, feel free to ask. PM me if you want and I'll give you my cell #, in case you run into any immediate issues.
Final note: I do NOT have a TC drop or SYE installed. I have the adapter and new driveshaft for the SYE, but that's been sitting in my apartment for a year now... Building a house (with a GARAGE!!) and I'll get to it sometime after that's done... Anyway, point is, I haven't needed either, and I've had only minor driveshaft vibes - they usually occur around 45mph, and I can either speed up or slow down to avoid them. Not necessarily the way yours will turn out, but yeah...
GL,HF!!
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09-19-2011, 09:07 AM
#10
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Most of the lift makers have links to fairly detailed installation instructions on their respective websites...
Rubicon Express, for example...
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Images...030/RE6030.pdf
09-19-2011, 10:24 PM
#11
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You are in for a world of fun my friend. I got the SF kit with full leafs last year, and have loved every minute since! I also got the adjustable track bar and extended front brake lines... Not totally necessary, but I feel it was worth it.
The major pain areas I had were the leaf bolts and rear shock bolts. I'd been hitting ALL the bolts with PB (and tapping with a hammer for good measure) for a MONTH before I did my install, and I still broke all four of the rear shock bolts. Ended up drilling and re-tapping, and they've held ever since - however, I wish I'd knocked out the old nuts and put in new ones...
Got all the leaf bolts to un-thread from the weld nuts inside the subframe, but the front ones stuck inside the leaf bushings, so I had to cut them out. Sawzall is the way to go here - started with an angle grinder, and the sawzall ended up being alot easier. Had to make the cuts between the leafs and the mounts so that the leaf would slide out, then the bolt head and end would fall right out of the mount. The rear bolts wouldn't pull all the way out because of my hitch, but I just had to cut the heads off, then knock them back out the other way.
The front end was comparatively easy.
Had some of my awesome friends helping during the whole thing, which was HUGE - no way I would have gotten it done on my own. Got a general thread for my rig here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...heila-1005744/ Bunch of pictures from during the lift...
If you have any questions, feel free to ask. PM me if you want and I'll give you my cell #, in case you run into any immediate issues.
Final note: I do NOT have a TC drop or SYE installed. I have the adapter and new driveshaft for the SYE, but that's been sitting in my apartment for a year now... Building a house (with a GARAGE!!) and I'll get to it sometime after that's done... Anyway, point is, I haven't needed either, and I've had only minor driveshaft vibes - they usually occur around 45mph, and I can either speed up or slow down to avoid them. Not necessarily the way yours will turn out, but yeah...
GL,HF!!
I got the SF kit with full leafs last year, and have loved every minute since! I also got the adjustable track bar and extended front brake lines... Not totally necessary, but I feel it was worth it.The major pain areas I had were the leaf bolts and rear shock bolts. I'd been hitting ALL the bolts with PB (and tapping with a hammer for good measure) for a MONTH before I did my install, and I still broke all four of the rear shock bolts. Ended up drilling and re-tapping, and they've held ever since - however, I wish I'd knocked out the old nuts and put in new ones...
Got all the leaf bolts to un-thread from the weld nuts inside the subframe, but the front ones stuck inside the leaf bushings, so I had to cut them out. Sawzall is the way to go here - started with an angle grinder, and the sawzall ended up being alot easier. Had to make the cuts between the leafs and the mounts so that the leaf would slide out, then the bolt head and end would fall right out of the mount. The rear bolts wouldn't pull all the way out because of my hitch, but I just had to cut the heads off, then knock them back out the other way.
The front end was comparatively easy.
Had some of my awesome friends helping during the whole thing, which was HUGE - no way I would have gotten it done on my own. Got a general thread for my rig here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...heila-1005744/ Bunch of pictures from during the lift...
If you have any questions, feel free to ask. PM me if you want and I'll give you my cell #, in case you run into any immediate issues.
Final note: I do NOT have a TC drop or SYE installed. I have the adapter and new driveshaft for the SYE, but that's been sitting in my apartment for a year now... Building a house (with a GARAGE!!) and I'll get to it sometime after that's done... Anyway, point is, I haven't needed either, and I've had only minor driveshaft vibes - they usually occur around 45mph, and I can either speed up or slow down to avoid them. Not necessarily the way yours will turn out, but yeah...
GL,HF!!
09-21-2011, 10:29 AM
#12
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"...I found it on eeeee-Baaaaay!!"
A guy on JF posted a pic of his Jeep with the same grill guard, and after some banter pointed me to the eBay page with it, which actually featured the same pic.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-J...item35aa73a56c
It's the EXACT same grill guard as the Aries/Taurus one, and there are some other manufacturers that make effectively the same thing. Thing is, even after shipping, this one is $200-$500 less than any of the others.
It uses the same mounting points as for the tow hooks, but the brackets that ship with the grill guard aren't the best...
http://custom4x4fabrication.com/recovery.html#brackets
The brackets on this page are the way to go. The ones that come with the grill guard don't have the triangular cross-support or the anti-torsion extention on the back, and the C4x4 brackets come with a cross-member support piece. You can mount the grill guard and the tow hooks to the same brackets, but you'll need to do a little modification either to the mounts to be able to spread the tow hooks out more, or to the bottom of the grill guard to allow a strap to slip over the hooks. You can kind've see what I'm talking about from the pic below...
The bottom of the grill guard has a cross-section shaped like an upside-down T, and one of the bottom flanges ends up really close to the hooks.
A guy on JF posted a pic of his Jeep with the same grill guard, and after some banter pointed me to the eBay page with it, which actually featured the same pic.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-J...item35aa73a56c
It's the EXACT same grill guard as the Aries/Taurus one, and there are some other manufacturers that make effectively the same thing. Thing is, even after shipping, this one is $200-$500 less than any of the others.
It uses the same mounting points as for the tow hooks, but the brackets that ship with the grill guard aren't the best...
http://custom4x4fabrication.com/recovery.html#brackets
The brackets on this page are the way to go. The ones that come with the grill guard don't have the triangular cross-support or the anti-torsion extention on the back, and the C4x4 brackets come with a cross-member support piece. You can mount the grill guard and the tow hooks to the same brackets, but you'll need to do a little modification either to the mounts to be able to spread the tow hooks out more, or to the bottom of the grill guard to allow a strap to slip over the hooks. You can kind've see what I'm talking about from the pic below...
The bottom of the grill guard has a cross-section shaped like an upside-down T, and one of the bottom flanges ends up really close to the hooks.
09-21-2011, 10:53 AM
#13
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^ No offence but those brush guards are just for looks. My buddy has one and i can bend it with one hand. One hit from a tree and your done son.
As for the 3.5 rubi ex. lift go full packs. I have the 3.5 fulls that i bought second hand from fox128 and i sit right at 4.75.
As for the 3.5 rubi ex. lift go full packs. I have the 3.5 fulls that i bought second hand from fox128 and i sit right at 4.75.
09-21-2011, 11:15 AM
#14
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Yeah it's mostly cosmetic. It's held up pretty good so far - had a 300lb dude jump up and down on it my first trail ride, and it torque'd forward a bit because I'm using the included mounts. Haven't bumped anything big with it.
