Ride upgrades?
#1
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ride upgrades?
Bought my XJ lifted by the PO. Seeing if I could get some help identifying the steering and front end pieces. Most of it looks stock to me but wanted some expert opinions. It rides decent just a bit stiff, but the shocks are worn and plan on replacing. Would replacing just shocks help fix this? Does anything else look like it needs replaced? It's lifted 6 inches so I'd like to beef up the steering over time, just looking for where I should start?
Thanks
#2
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Steering looks stock. If the tie-rod is hollow, it is stock (If it is solid, it may be a ZJ Tie Rod but my ZJ tie rod has a bend in it and doesn't look like yours)
My XJ rides pretty stiff even with brand new Bilstein 5100 shocks. I believe that my Rubicon Express coils and add-a-leaf in the rear is the reason.
If you are trying to save some coin - pull one of the front shocks out and see how it actuates. Should be smooth and fairly easy to compress (not too easy, but shouldn't be impossible like the blown ones I replaced)
For the Tie-Rod, if you have any play the Grand Cherokee ZJ Tie-Rod is a good upgrade for light duty 4-wheeling. At 6" of lift, you should make sure your steering is in good shape and if it is factory, beefing it up is not a bad option (Check out Serious Offroad and CavFab for some "1-ton" steering kits)
If the Jeep is new-to-you, you need to go through all fluids to make sure they are fresh. Diff's look like they haven't been opened before but hard to tell. Use a Wix or Napa Gold oil filter. XJ's are notorious for cooling system "issues", but it is 99% because of lack of maintenance. Replace anything cooling related BEFORE you overheat the motor and blow the head-gasket, not after.
Also important, is check all the major chassis bolts for looseness. Steering box bolts, Tie-rod end bolts, etc. This is purely from a safety aspect.
Then, just fix and upgrade stuff as you see fit. Google and searching will be your friend. Almost every task with an XJ has a youtube tutorial at this point
My XJ rides pretty stiff even with brand new Bilstein 5100 shocks. I believe that my Rubicon Express coils and add-a-leaf in the rear is the reason.
If you are trying to save some coin - pull one of the front shocks out and see how it actuates. Should be smooth and fairly easy to compress (not too easy, but shouldn't be impossible like the blown ones I replaced)
For the Tie-Rod, if you have any play the Grand Cherokee ZJ Tie-Rod is a good upgrade for light duty 4-wheeling. At 6" of lift, you should make sure your steering is in good shape and if it is factory, beefing it up is not a bad option (Check out Serious Offroad and CavFab for some "1-ton" steering kits)
If the Jeep is new-to-you, you need to go through all fluids to make sure they are fresh. Diff's look like they haven't been opened before but hard to tell. Use a Wix or Napa Gold oil filter. XJ's are notorious for cooling system "issues", but it is 99% because of lack of maintenance. Replace anything cooling related BEFORE you overheat the motor and blow the head-gasket, not after.
Also important, is check all the major chassis bolts for looseness. Steering box bolts, Tie-rod end bolts, etc. This is purely from a safety aspect.
Then, just fix and upgrade stuff as you see fit. Google and searching will be your friend. Almost every task with an XJ has a youtube tutorial at this point
#3
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Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
Ditch that axle side trackbar drop bracket and get an aftermarket adjustable track bar, preferably one with a double shear frame side mount. Iron rock offroad makes a good one.
#4
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Year: 1997
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Thanks for the reply. I've been reading into putting in a ZJ tie rod. Did it make any major difference for you? I've found it may make the steering tighter, but that could just be because the old one was worn out.
I've also been looking into relocating my rear shackles. They aren't at an optimum angle and I think that could be part of the stiff ride.
I have a picture in my gallery of where I fixed the sway bar links from the PO. I bolted the sway bar straight to the links, metal on metal. I was thinking maybe of adding some bushings since it's my DD. It rides better with it disconnected, but that's usually frowned upon for a DD and won't pass inspection here. Think bushings would make a difference between the sway bar and end links?
I've also been looking into relocating my rear shackles. They aren't at an optimum angle and I think that could be part of the stiff ride.
I have a picture in my gallery of where I fixed the sway bar links from the PO. I bolted the sway bar straight to the links, metal on metal. I was thinking maybe of adding some bushings since it's my DD. It rides better with it disconnected, but that's usually frowned upon for a DD and won't pass inspection here. Think bushings would make a difference between the sway bar and end links?
#5
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Year: 1997
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I'm assuming using a drop bracket like the one on it now is the cheap way to go, correct? Is the main benefit of a double shear mount strength and flex? I'm also assuming with an adjustable track bar, I could remove that drop bracket?
#6
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Year: 1993
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Correct, it also looks like the drop bracket may be throwing off the angle between your track bar and drag link. I also suggest relocating the shackles like you mentioned previously and definitely using some bushings on the sway bar links.