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Rear Fender Trimming...Detailed Question

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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 09:18 AM
  #1  
Screwd up 6's Avatar
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Default Rear Fender Trimming...Detailed Question

I have read a lot on trimming and have seen many results...but it seems most peoples jeep are trail rigs so the precision on the rear trimming is a bit lacking.

My question is, has anyone done it without the paint cracking or without the rears looking sloppy. My jeep will be my daily driver and I dont mind spending extra time trying to do the job right.

I am wondering if anyone has cut the rear slits in the curved section very small to make the rounded areas stay round? I willl be putting 5/8" edge trim on it after bending so the paint cracking is not the biggest concern. I just want the rear to follow the same shape as it does when not cut.

Hope this makes sense haha.

Thanks in advance,
Screwd up 6
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 11:43 AM
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a piece of edge triming, a good thick coat of some bedliner or either a set of aftermarket flares are going to help you acheive that nice "factory" look like youre going for
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by clacker
a piece of edge triming, a good thick coat of some bedliner or either a set of aftermarket flares are going to help you acheive that nice "factory" look like youre going for
Dont want aftermarket flares
And i dont want to bedline the edges.

Hope the edge trim does the job...
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 01:46 PM
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Color match the paint and touch it up maybe ,because I assure you it will most likely crack
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 03:18 PM
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Just rolled mine and honestly I don't think you can do it without the paint chipping. Just tape everything off around the area and once they are tucked inside throw a layer or two of paint on it so it doesn't rust. That's your best option.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 04:23 PM
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Ok so the paint will crack...I can deal with that.

Is it possible to keep the same uniform shape in the curved edges? I see a lot that look rough and squared off in the corners
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Screwd up 6
Ok so the paint will crack...I can deal with that.

Is it possible to keep the same uniform shape in the curved edges? I see a lot that look rough and squared off in the corners
yeah, if you look at my build thread on page 4 you will see the pictures of it with the trimming. I made sure to just follow the lip all the way around on all four wheel wells. No square cutting and I kept the factory lines, just a little higher up.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by blankdeluxe
yeah, if you look at my build thread on page 4 you will see the pictures of it with the trimming. I made sure to just follow the lip all the way around on all four wheel wells. No square cutting and I kept the factory lines, just a little higher up.

Def didnt think to look at your thread...went strait to you profile/album and was bummed you didnt have any lol. Ill check it out
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Screwd up 6
Def didnt think to look at your thread...went strait to you profile/album and was bummed you didnt have any lol. Ill check it out
yeah, I don't really put many pictures in the album. Just in threads.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 05:39 PM
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I trimmed up to the spot welds, and then folded the rest in. this worked great because not only does it look uniform, but it also leaves a smooth curved edge opposed to a sharp edge of sheetmetal. I also relocated my fender flares but I think it looked very good without. I only did a notch in each top corner before I folded them all in.

there is no way to get around the paint chipping if you fold them in.

heres from pics

trimmed and rolled (sorry pic kinds sucks)


and with relocated flares



I think it looks better with the flares IMO
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 06:08 PM
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not digging your flares... did you have your eyes closed when you cut them>?
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ericfx1984
not digging your flares... did you have your eyes closed when you cut them>?
its pretty much impossible to get it to look perfect when having to cut it to attach it to the door so it opens. id love to see you do better.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by E-Rok
its pretty much impossible to get it to look perfect when having to cut it to attach it to the door so it opens. id love to see you do better.
the best way is to make the flare 2 parts front half mounted to the door
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ericfx1984
the best way is to make the flare 2 parts front half mounted to the door
I was going to do that but the lower front part doesnt extend forward enough to do it that way. as you can see it sits flush with the edge. believe me, I thought of trying that. maybe some people have pulled it off, but im not sure how they did then. if it moved it any more forward, the sheet metal would be showing inside the flare, and that would have looked REALLY odd.
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by E-Rok
I was going to do that but the lower front part doesnt extend forward enough to do it that way. as you can see it sits flush with the edge. believe me, I thought of trying that. maybe some people have pulled it off, but im not sure how they did then. if it moved it any more forward, the sheet metal would be showing inside the flare, and that would have looked REALLY odd.

I think you just need a different flare in the rear maybe a rear TJ
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