Does or has anyone done a rear disc brake conversion on Dana 35 rear axle without buying the kits like are sold at quadratec ($660.99) maybe a way to get the parts from junkyard build?

 

yup, 95-98 zj grand cherokee. you can use all the parts from the axle tube out. so grab the backing bracket, calipers and rotors.
it's a bolt on application.
and i think the e-brake cables will hook right up also.

 

Thanks will wait till the local junk yard has all you can carry day

 

all you can carry?!?!?! that rocks,, I would have a lot of parts.....

 

X2 your lucky

 

Here is a link that may help...Its for a 8.25 but you get the idea...Tj
http://home.swbell.net/rriojas3/reardisk.html

 

not to be a jerk, but are you planning on wheeling it and running bigger tires? i would ditch the Dana 35 if so.

 

actually you cant do it the same as the 8.25, you will need to make a spacer to make up for the backing plate difference

 

What about for a D44, is there any matching diff to do a disc conversion???

 

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthrea...ake+conversion

http://jeepin.com/features/cvdiscs

http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/d44brake/bc-1.htm

 

ive been wanting to do a rear disc conversion. thanks for the info guys

 

Wrong, it bolts right up to a C8.25, I know because I have done this swap using parts from a 95 ZJ. I had to grind the inner circle of the backing plate a little bit, but otherwise bolted right now.

 

Yep

I've done both. No spacer required. 8.25 is a direct bolt-up. D35 requires the hole be enlarged.

There is some minor fabrication/thought required for brake lines and parking brake cable but nothing difficult.

I made new hard brake lines and hose brackets but others just bend the OEM lines and don't attach the hoses.

Parking brake is only an issue if your state requires it for an annual inspection (like NC).

 

How much better do they do vs the stock drums? After I put 33s on my stock breaks don't really stop anymore.

 

Noticeable difference.

Depending on what year you have I'd also upgrade to the 97+ master cylinder and booster while you are at it.

I would also suggest taking the proportioning valve out of whatever ZJ you get your brakes from. Most don't do it but I found that the XJ prop valve was biasing too much to the rear (wheel cylinders require more fluid/pressure to operate). Under heavy braking I was getting tail wiggle. The ZJ prop valve settled it all down and got the pressures where they should be on all 4 corners.

Do the disks, upgraded MC, booster, prop valve and some good pads (I use Hawk Severe Duty) and it will be a night and day difference.