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really worried, hope i didnt screw up.....HELP PLEASE!!!

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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 11:51 PM
  #1  
sheepdog's Avatar
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From: South West Wyoming
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 h.o.
Default really worried, hope i didnt screw up.....HELP PLEASE!!!

ok, i got a pro comp 3 inch aal lift kit for christmas, and wanted full packs instead of aal's, so i ordered new rear packs from rough country. but, since i was spending the money, i figured i would upgrade to 4" lift, so i got 4" rear packs and 3/4" front spacers, so 3 3/4 front lift and 4" rear, i also got a transfer case drop kit since i cant afford an sye at this point. will the rest of my 3 inch pro comp componants work with this??????? I really need to know, if they wont, i will have to call rough country and change my order, and cancle my order for the T case drop
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 11:54 PM
  #2  
Bustedback's Avatar
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From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
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You should be fine as far as everything fitting, but you really should do the SYE asap.
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 11:55 PM
  #3  
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From: Missoula, MT
Year: 1995
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You may get some vibes, but I think you should be ok
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 04:46 AM
  #4  
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From: Colorado Rocky Mountains
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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I have a 3.5" lift on my 96 4dr with 8.25 rear axle, no SYE & stock driveshaft/yolk, 1" t-case drop and I get very limited vibrations in the drivetrain at about 50 mph, but not below or above that speed. The vibrations are noticeably worse when there is mud or ice buildup on the driveshaft, so I'm not even sure it's the angles - it may just be old u-joints or my rusty, old stock driveshaft. XJs are all different from what I understand when it comes to driveline vibrations, but I'd expect the t-case drop should be enough on your 4" lift. If I were to do it again, I'd probably get a SYE instead of the t-case drop just for added center-clearance and the option of going bigger without that worry! Or do both and go for 6+ but that's just the Jeep talkin, not my wallet! Either way you gotta be psyched - that's a sweet present! Have fun!
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 07:07 AM
  #5  
SeriousOffroad's Avatar
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If the lift hasn't been installed yet.....return it.

Pro-Crap lifts use poly bushings on both ends, and those are terrible on a rig that is actually taken off road.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/pr...l-arms-387042/

Lots more horror stories where that came from.
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 07:45 AM
  #6  
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From: Farmington WV
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by FrankZ
If the lift hasn't been installed yet.....return it.

Pro-Crap lifts use poly bushings on both ends, and those are terrible on a rig that is actually taken off road.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/pr...l-arms-387042/

Lots more horror stories where that came from.
he just ordered new leafs from RC....shouldnt have to worry about that now.

your shocks and other parts should be fine with the additional lift.

edit - unless he has pro comp control arms. and if he doesnt he needs them for the added lift.
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 09:30 AM
  #7  
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From: South West Wyoming
Year: 1993
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Engine: I-6 h.o.
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ya everything else is pro comp, front springs, shocks, control arms, sway bar links, everything else......im mainly concerned about the control arms, will the pro comp control arms for the 3 inch lift work for the new 4 inch?

Last edited by sheepdog; Jan 16, 2011 at 09:44 AM.
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 09:37 AM
  #8  
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From: South West Wyoming
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and if not.....should i order some rough country control arms for a 4 inch lift? or change my order to 3 inch full packs and send back the spacers, so im at 3" of lift, and keep my pro comp control arms? my jeep is mostly on road....but when i go to wheele it, i usually go through some pretty nasty stuff (usually for hunting) but the oem control arm doesnt really have much flex, does it?

Last edited by sheepdog; Jan 16, 2011 at 09:49 AM.
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 09:42 AM
  #9  
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From: South West Wyoming
Year: 1993
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this is what i got of pro comp that i would use.....
Attached Thumbnails really worried, hope i didnt screw up.....HELP PLEASE!!!-photo-0007.jpg   really worried, hope i didnt screw up.....HELP PLEASE!!!-photo-0006.jpg   really worried, hope i didnt screw up.....HELP PLEASE!!!-photo-0008.jpg   really worried, hope i didnt screw up.....HELP PLEASE!!!-photo-0004.jpg   really worried, hope i didnt screw up.....HELP PLEASE!!!-photo-0005.jpg  

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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 09:48 AM
  #10  
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From: Farmington WV
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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the control arms should work. RC sells the same ones for their 3" and 4.5" lifts
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 09:56 AM
  #11  
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From: South West Wyoming
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 h.o.
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what about the sway bar links? so if they work.....ill just use what i have, cuz goin to college i dont have much money now lol but this spring, ill get the rough country x-flex adjustable control arms, and replace my transfer case drop with an sye, does the consensos say that will work? if not i need to know so i can save a little money and get the stuff i need before i do the lift, but if what i got will work for now, i will use it till i can afford the nicer things (x-flex adjustable control arm, and sye) ??????
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 11:26 AM
  #12  
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From: Colorado Rocky Mountains
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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When I got my jeep with a 3.5" Tuff Country lift (installed by previous owner) I'm pretty sure it still had stock sway bar links on there. It rode pretty stiff. I installed a pair of cheap extended swaybar links which were definitely longer than what were on there. They made the ride noticeably smoother and improved steering on rough roads. I was surprised at the difference it made. I'd say as long as the swaybar links you got with the kit are longer than stock, you should probably be fine. I'm pretty sure the rear ones are stock since it has a block lift back there, and that whole situation is not good so change is a-comin...
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 11:33 AM
  #13  
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From: South West Wyoming
Year: 1993
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alright cool.....i get paid next week so maybe ill get the rough country lower control arms, and use everything else i have. my worries are settled ill get an sye this summer. 4" lift and 31's, here i come thanks for all your help guys, this forum has been more helpful than i ever imagined. ill post pics when im done
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 12:04 PM
  #14  
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From: Loomis,California
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 inline six
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If you want arms that are gunna flex and twist without tearing your mounts off,look into JKS arms.Rubber bushings at both ends and they twist with the movement off the axle,no lock nut to keep them from twisting.
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 12:39 PM
  #15  
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From: Utah
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L
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I used those control arms w/ 5" of lift and they were fine, if your mostly on the road you should be ok.
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