question about Iron rock offroad long arms
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 0
From: college station
Year: 1988
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
I guess haters are going to hate. Forgot that I'm building this jeep how I want... Talk **** if you want. Like I said its a beach truck. I'm building it to look good and get me through the Sand with out having to hack up a comache..... Is that wrong? Tell me when the last time you saw a comanche short box bed with no rust? Would you cut into it. Whatever, thanks for the responses that actually tried to give me insite to my question. To the rest..... Ask you self this, what the point of ******* on somebody that's trying to get help with a question they don't know, when obviously you don't know they answer..... Just stay out of the thread if your going to have smart comments and be a *** hole .
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 0
From: college station
Year: 1988
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
Oh and my signature refers to how much of a pain in the *** it is to install a lift on a ttb vehicle. Drilling 27 rivets is not fun. I love the axle because it is the best of both worlds, the best 4x4 Pre runner axle for back for the day and the best ride quality for a somewhat solid axle 4x4 on the street.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 15,581
Likes: 8
From: some small town oregon
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Settle down there sparky.
I see rust free mj's every day. Hell I see em in the junkyard.
Second 8" of lift for sand is overkill. Long arm for sand driving seems... over kill. Iro is built for low speed rock play. Re is built for rock and speed. For sand you don't need tire size. Ground clearance isn't needed like for rocks.
So to get all huffy at us "haters" read your post. You want a tall mj for sand crusing to look good. Form over function.
A top heavy mj on the sand..... I'm sure them untouched fenders will help the resale when you roll the bastard because its too dam tall and unstable.
I see rust free mj's every day. Hell I see em in the junkyard.
Second 8" of lift for sand is overkill. Long arm for sand driving seems... over kill. Iro is built for low speed rock play. Re is built for rock and speed. For sand you don't need tire size. Ground clearance isn't needed like for rocks.
So to get all huffy at us "haters" read your post. You want a tall mj for sand crusing to look good. Form over function.
A top heavy mj on the sand..... I'm sure them untouched fenders will help the resale when you roll the bastard because its too dam tall and unstable.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 0
From: college station
Year: 1988
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
Settle down there sparky.
I see rust free mj's every day. Hell I see em in the junkyard.
Second 8" of lift for sand is overkill. Long arm for sand driving seems... over kill. Iro is built for low speed rock play. Re is built for rock and speed. For sand you don't need tire size. Ground clearance isn't needed like for rocks.
So to get all huffy at us "haters" read your post. You want a tall mj for sand crusing to look good. Form over function.
A top heavy mj on the sand..... I'm sure them untouched fenders will help the resale when you roll the bastard because its too dam tall and unstable.
I see rust free mj's every day. Hell I see em in the junkyard.
Second 8" of lift for sand is overkill. Long arm for sand driving seems... over kill. Iro is built for low speed rock play. Re is built for rock and speed. For sand you don't need tire size. Ground clearance isn't needed like for rocks.
So to get all huffy at us "haters" read your post. You want a tall mj for sand crusing to look good. Form over function.
A top heavy mj on the sand..... I'm sure them untouched fenders will help the resale when you roll the bastard because its too dam tall and unstable.
I get it. It's overkill for sand. But I want it, what's the harm? If you see rust free mjs every day then why don't you buy them and sell them to people in the rust belt that would kill for one with no rust. There was not many of them made and one by one they are getting scrapped everyday. Sorry if I don't want to cut up my bed. Especially since the only one I have seen in a junkyard has been 300 miles from me and in the shape of a pretzel. Bottom line is, I didn't ask about the opinions on the set up I wanted, I asked about if any body had experience with Iro arms and to elaborate on the plus and negatives of their adjustable arms vs non adjustable.
Last edited by zebvance; Jun 5, 2013 at 01:03 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,353
Likes: 1
From: Missoula, MT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Golen 4.6 Stroker, AFE Headers, 62mm TB, 24 LB Injectors, Brown Dog kit, HF Cat, 3" Exhaust
I have their non adjustable and have not had a problem with the caster adjuster. Everyone seems to think it is just going to pop off but you would really have to put some force on it to happen. The only bolt on the entire kit that has given me any trouble is the one that goes through the sub-frame and the single arm on the passenger side. It just wears down over time no matter what I put in there.
Over all the IRO kit has been great. I have no complaints. I think you will find 95% of people that run them would say that. No I do not jump my XJ 20 feet in the air and go through a Jeep a year like KTM does.(though I would if I could afford to) No I do not purposefully destroy my Jeep (I guess that means I don't wheel ever) But yes I do wheel. I crawl, I mud, I go through a ton of snow. I just prefer to have a Jeep left when I am done. The kit does great. The arms are thicker and stronger than most... The joints have been solid. The leafs/shackles etc are all good quality... I took it down on the beach in LA quite a few times with no problems on the small dunes/sand.
To each his own I guess. I like and trust this kit much more than the others I have ran. People seem to hate two things on this forum 1.) Tall rigs (because apparently none of them have ever been to a mud bog or had to deal with alot of snow) 2.) IRO because they all think that (with very little proof) the 10mm bolt on the 3rd arm is going to snap.
Build it how you want man. You wont be disapointed with the IRO.
Over all the IRO kit has been great. I have no complaints. I think you will find 95% of people that run them would say that. No I do not jump my XJ 20 feet in the air and go through a Jeep a year like KTM does.(though I would if I could afford to) No I do not purposefully destroy my Jeep (I guess that means I don't wheel ever) But yes I do wheel. I crawl, I mud, I go through a ton of snow. I just prefer to have a Jeep left when I am done. The kit does great. The arms are thicker and stronger than most... The joints have been solid. The leafs/shackles etc are all good quality... I took it down on the beach in LA quite a few times with no problems on the small dunes/sand.
To each his own I guess. I like and trust this kit much more than the others I have ran. People seem to hate two things on this forum 1.) Tall rigs (because apparently none of them have ever been to a mud bog or had to deal with alot of snow) 2.) IRO because they all think that (with very little proof) the 10mm bolt on the 3rd arm is going to snap.
Build it how you want man. You wont be disapointed with the IRO.
I figure the non adjustable arms would be good if you were ever deciding to increase the lift size in the future. I've asked a lot of people who own the iro kit and say that the non adjustable a do the job fine. I don't have the kit on my truck yet but several people on my area have it and no one has complained about them. That's the reason why I'm choosing iro once the funds come my way
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 15,581
Likes: 8
From: some small town oregon
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I get it. It's overkill for sand. But I want it, what's the harm? If you see rust free mjs every day then why don't you buy them and sell them to people in the rust belt that would kill for one with no rust. There was not many of them made and one by one they are getting scrapped everyday. Sorry if I don't want to cut up my bed. Especially since the only one I have seen in a junkyard has been 300 miles from me and in the shape of a pretzel. Bottom line is, I didn't ask about the opinions on the set up I wanted, I asked about if any body had experience with Iro arms and to elaborate on the plus and negatives of their adjustable arms vs non adjustable.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
1. Don't buy the IRO LA garbage. Pick a different kit. It may be the cheapest but spend a few more bucks on something you'll be happy with in the long run. If it were me and it's for "show" I'd just get drop brackets and roll with it.
2. Lower the rear 3 inches and lift the front 1 inch. 35's will easily fit a 5.5" lift.
3. Lightly trim what needs to be trimmed. You can trim without hacking up your truck.
4. BUMPSTOP, this is a simple concept that will solve all of your problems. I've been telling you this since the first thread you started when you got this racked out truck. Still riding around a year later with the back jacked up twice as high as the front.
2. Lower the rear 3 inches and lift the front 1 inch. 35's will easily fit a 5.5" lift.
3. Lightly trim what needs to be trimmed. You can trim without hacking up your truck.
4. BUMPSTOP, this is a simple concept that will solve all of your problems. I've been telling you this since the first thread you started when you got this racked out truck. Still riding around a year later with the back jacked up twice as high as the front.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Adjustables always better for tweaking. And its your ride build it the way you want it ....then drive it the way you want.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 15,581
Likes: 8
From: some small town oregon
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0



