steve1979

Took the plung and decided to install my lift. My friend told me it wouldnt be that bad and I took his word for it. I started the rear last weekend and ran into some issues. I got the bolts I needed and I was on my way. I started the front today after work and now I am at a stand still as everything I need to get off is frozen solid. Three weeks before the lift I started on treatment every other day. A week and a half out I started doing it every day. Sprayed it down last night and 30 min boxer I started. Took the shocks out, sway bar links and sway bar (can't get the lower sway bar link out for the new gen2 discos). Couldnt get the track bar loose as the lower nut won't break. After that I moved on to the pitman arm but it won't budge, I am usind a two jaw puller and it seem to not be up to the task. Then I changed the brake lines and now I am stuck.
I really don't know what to do now. I have scoured the forums and tried a couple of the methods but to no avail.

Hammered

for the sway bar links you can cut the bolts off with a cut of wheel / grinder. Then you should have no problem. Depending on what size lift you have you may not NEEED to replace the pitman arm. My last jeep had stock and it drove nicely on and off road.

So for now try to just remove the steering / castle nuts and put your new steering in. That way you can get it back on the road.

Kingfisher

Heat with torch. Propane might do it. But you might need acetylene.

steve1979

Ok so this is the bolt I can't get out...





Running a re 4.5 super flex if I don't sell it first. So I believe I need the pitman arm.
As for the track bar. This bolt won't move.

Jds12

Did you try using a torch on the nuts? Heat makes a huge difference, I would have snapped every bolt on mine with out it.

Also, if you heat up the nut then spray penetrating oil on it the heat will actually draw it into the seized threads. I've had good luck with pb blaster. Just be careful cause it is flammable. Heat up the pitman arm where it meets the steering gear shaft too.

clydesdale

With the puller on and tight, shock it with a hammer around the outside. You can hit it pretty hard with no worries. Just don't hit the shaft.
If you use heat, only heat the arm. It will do you worse if you heat the shaft.
Then relax and have a beer.

PurpleToxin505

The top one isnt coming out because its a pressed bolt. Use a pitman arm puller to press it out. Cant really tell what the other pics are of

Jds12

If you look under there, there's a nut on the other side. put some heat and penetrating oil on it. Be careful not to melt the track bar bushing if you plan to reuse it.

steve1979

I will try the puller on those sway bar link bolts.

The other pics were duplicates. This might be a better pic...




It is the lower track bar bolt. It is just siezed, I moved down here to North Carolina from the rust belt. This is a 98 xj from Connecticut with 200k miles of original rust.
As for the track bar I have a new one .

F1Addict

Use a puller on the sway bar bolt or heat the arm it's pressed into. Don't worry about the Pitman arm, for now. You can't cut the track bar bolt off because you won't be able to get it out the other side with the rest of the bolt attached. My suggestion would be to use a 13mm socket on a breaker bar... if the bolt snaps it will likely happen at the threads, leaving enough room to get the rest of the bolt (still in that funky weld nut) out.

You've done a damned fine job with the penetrating oil, lol. Nobody can accuse you of going about it the wrong way.

Hammered

You dont need to replace the pitman arm. 4.5 was exactly what I had on my previous xj.


Track bar: use a breaker bar with a pipe, it will come out or snap at the threads as stated above.

The sway bar bolts are pressed in and can be heated or just hit with a big hammer... you could cut them off and just smack out the heads with a punch. OR JUST DRILL THE HEAD END, just stay below the size bolt they require.


You can do this. And this is how ya learn stuff... by swearing at it.

tymatt

Sway bar pins can be pushed out with a strong c-clamp and socket. I stress the word "strong c-clamp" Harbor Freight wont get it here.. Heat up just the flat stock there pressed into.

mr white

If you can't get the track bar bolt off, cut it on both ends with a sawzall or grinder between the trackbar and the mount. Or try a 3ft breaker bar and go slow.

Ianf406

Like they have said..

Swaybar- hit with a hammer ( mini sledge works great) it goes in like a wheel stud... No threads just splines.

For the track bar bolt, just use a cheater bar or better yet, get an impact on it.

You are almost done! Those of us that do the wrenching on our rigs have hit a wall or two. Keep at it and you'll get it done.

Codenamefa

How I pulled my sway bar links pin was by getting a torq/star bit on a 1/2" breaker bar with a pipe that fit the end and spun it till it shreaded the teeth that is causing it to be stuck in there. After spinning it just hit it with a hammer and it just wiggles out And if you whack the piece a little out of whack just hit it back the other way and its back to normal

Also for the track bar if it seems rounded off get a good strong end wrench on it and smack it on and give it h*ll and she will come loose or break off, and if you don't have a flag nut put a pry bar in place on the nut to wedge it in there go to town with it and throw some back into it. I did all of my lift all by myself and sadly I manage to break a few things but when it was all done there is no reason for any of the bolts in it now to ever break Grade 8 on pretty much every bolt left in her.