Off Road lights diagram
#1
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Year: 2000
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Engine: 4.0 V6
Off Road lights diagram
So I spent the last 3 Hours working on this. Doing Research and I've written up a diagram for my lights. But I'd like to hear what you guys have to say. Because i Am only 17. And this is the first time doing anything like this. Well first time doing it right lol. Alright so here is some of the specs I came up With
These are totals for the four lights.
Volts=12
Watts=220(55 per light)
amps=18.34
ohms=0.66
All the wiring will be done with 10 gauge Hoping that 35 feet total will do the trick. I should be able to do this with very little resistance. And Little power loss.
But heres my diagram with the specs. The only thing im questioning is will my lights turn on and off with a swtich? the one red power wire leading from the Switch to the wire going to the lights Won't work there so don't bother staring at it to long. But yeah lemme know what you think or if i need to make any changes
These are totals for the four lights.
Volts=12
Watts=220(55 per light)
amps=18.34
ohms=0.66
All the wiring will be done with 10 gauge Hoping that 35 feet total will do the trick. I should be able to do this with very little resistance. And Little power loss.
But heres my diagram with the specs. The only thing im questioning is will my lights turn on and off with a swtich? the one red power wire leading from the Switch to the wire going to the lights Won't work there so don't bother staring at it to long. But yeah lemme know what you think or if i need to make any changes
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Year: 1989
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Engine: 4.0L I6
You don't need that lead you were asking about, and you only need a ground for your switch if it has an LED. You also forgot to add in the wire that will give the switch power. Here:
Just remember that you don't need a ground wire going all the way from your lights to your battery negative, just to the nearest good ground. Will these be roof lights or bumper lights?
And what I was saying with the note, is that the wire that powers your switch could either be a "switched" (As in only able to be on under ACC/Run ignition modes) wire, and could come from one of the empty slots in the fuse block, or if you want to be able to turn them on at any time, you can wire them to a more direct +12V. The wire going from the +12V to the switch, and from the switch to the relay, and the switch to the ground (If your switch has an LED) all will require very small current draw, and you should be able to use 18-20 gauge wire for that with no problems. I hope this wasn't too confusing.
Just remember that you don't need a ground wire going all the way from your lights to your battery negative, just to the nearest good ground. Will these be roof lights or bumper lights?
And what I was saying with the note, is that the wire that powers your switch could either be a "switched" (As in only able to be on under ACC/Run ignition modes) wire, and could come from one of the empty slots in the fuse block, or if you want to be able to turn them on at any time, you can wire them to a more direct +12V. The wire going from the +12V to the switch, and from the switch to the relay, and the switch to the ground (If your switch has an LED) all will require very small current draw, and you should be able to use 18-20 gauge wire for that with no problems. I hope this wasn't too confusing.
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