Newbie 2001 XJ Price Question
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Northern Burbs of Chicago
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Newbie 2001 XJ Price Question
Hello All,
I am looking for some help/info from the XJ experts. My son wanted an XJ and we found a clean one that spent 10 yrs in TX that needed an engine due to a bad piston. The previous owner was a metal fab magician who loved to build custom stainless steel parts for the XJ. He set it up really well for off-roading. Overall the truck is very clean minus a few trail scars and it has a lot of great parts on it. We built this XJ to keep it but my son is headed off to school this fall and he is thinking he needs to get something with better mpg. We are trying to determine what his XJ is worth. Here is the list of info on it. We looked a many XJs before we bought this one and we were amazed how clean and solid it is compared to all the rusty ones we found in norther IL. Everything works as it should and there are no check engine lights (CEL). Power window and locks, heat is great and has cold AC.
Awesome HD custom stainless steel bumpers, spare tire rack, winch mount, gas tank skid plate and supports.
Wheels - 2016 Jeep Rubicon wheels and 32” BFG MT tires with only 6k miles on them.
Brakes- New brakes front and rear.
Suspension – New 3” lift, springs, shocks, adjustable tubular control arms and leaf spring links
Axles- lockers front and rear, 4.10 gears, Warn front lockers, new perf chrome moly axles,
Drive shafts- new drive shafts front and rear. Slip Yoke Eliminator Kit with CV Driveshaft including double cardan joint.
Steering- new ball joints, tie rods, pitman, steering stabilizer, power steering hose and fluid.
Stereo – New Pioneer head unit Bluetooth, CD hands free. New Alpine door speakers.
Engine- 98K mile short block, New Parts: remanufactured TUPY 0331 head, head bolts, timing chain, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms, water pump, alternator, serpentine belt and idler, Felpro gaskets,
Transmission- replaced 12/29/17 with 60k mile trans. New transmission cooler lines.
Cooling system- flushed with new aluminum radiator, heater core (replaced by previous owner) new: radiator hoses, heater hoses and thermostat. New radiator shroud.
Interior- clean little wear, has an interior luggage rack to ties stuff down, driver seat- solid and does not have broken welds.
Fuel injectors- removed and cleaned.
Work needed -
Head liner is drooping.
Body has some dings and a few dents from off roading but not bad. We priced out good used driver doors and tail gate for $125 each.
It has 176k miles on it with a clean title. We have a folder of all the parts we put in it and a few receipts from the previous owner. Open to possible trades for more of a street car including near stock clean XJ.
I would really appreciate any price/value information. Thank you for your help.
Last edited by ZPT; Jun 16, 2019 at 10:59 AM. Reason: I lost my text
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6
There is a fully built rust free 2000 XJ near me with a fresh motor swap listed for $8.5k. I can send you the link and look at it for you if you'd like. I live near ECGS and if he had the axles done there, they warranty their work and do fantastic work. The gears and D30 HP and rear axle around would run around $4k (depending on if he got them beefed up with chromoly shafts) and the Vanco big brake kit is around $1k. A SYE and rear axle installed by them is around $750 with parts. That isn't including everything else listed. Honestly, cash talk, but if everything checks out that price is pretty solid. Maintenance records etc.
Some of the highlights are as follows: All have less than 10k miles on them New ATK Engine 4.0 Including all accessories. Big injectors and throttle body and more. Boris stainless exhaust Rebuilt transmission Rebuilt t case and np231 swap to eliminate pesky AWD issues these have Rebuilt ford 8.8 rear axle and front high pinion Dana 30 axles. With solid axle covers too 4.10 gears. All new ball joints and steering Currie correctlync steering. Axle tube seals Vanco big brakes and rear disc too with drilled and slotted Rotors on all 4 corners. Stops excellent!! 4.5 “ full suspension lift (the add got cut off here)
Not sure what the asking price is of this.
Some of the highlights are as follows: All have less than 10k miles on them New ATK Engine 4.0 Including all accessories. Big injectors and throttle body and more. Boris stainless exhaust Rebuilt transmission Rebuilt t case and np231 swap to eliminate pesky AWD issues these have Rebuilt ford 8.8 rear axle and front high pinion Dana 30 axles. With solid axle covers too 4.10 gears. All new ball joints and steering Currie correctlync steering. Axle tube seals Vanco big brakes and rear disc too with drilled and slotted Rotors on all 4 corners. Stops excellent!! 4.5 “ full suspension lift (the add got cut off here)
Not sure what the asking price is of this.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Northern Burbs of Chicago
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Thanks for the welcome wishes! This forum has some amazing info!
That other truck sounds pretty nice. Ours has some scuffs but it is a very solid truck.
Is $6300 a fair starting price for our truck?
That other truck sounds pretty nice. Ours has some scuffs but it is a very solid truck.
Is $6300 a fair starting price for our truck?
Last edited by ZPT; Jun 18, 2019 at 10:20 PM. Reason: fix typo
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 337
Likes: 33
From: Latonia,Kentucky
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 fresh rebuild
You can always give it a shot,If you don't get a bite rebate your hook. You would probably have better luck if you fix the door and tailgate, and you can always haggle.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6
Does the front end on this have free spinning hubs? "Warn front lockers" That is around a $1k upgrade. Looks like he has quite a bit of money in the axles. With just parts alone, you are looking around $3 to $4k, maybe even upwards of $5k if you take into consideration what kind of lockers he has and free spin hubs with a brake upgrade. If the brakes are not XJ brakes, make sure he tells you the vehicle they were sourced from, rotor size and brake pad part number.
The front axle pinion seal appears to be leaking. Easy fix, but something to take into consideration. Also, I am not an expert, but it looks like a low pinion D30 which was installed on XJ's in '00.
Things to check as you don't want a headache:
1) Maintenance records on antifreeze changes. This is in relation to making sure the heater core is healthy and in good shape. Pain to change it out if it develops a leak. In relation to this, check the passenger side floor for wetness of the smell of antifreeze. If its just wet, it may be rain from the seals that tend to leak in the dash.
2) Make sure the oil on the oil cap is not milky, this suggests a cracked head. You should be fine if the head was swapped as it sounds like it was.
3) Take the radiator cap off and check for signs of oil. You want her to be bright green.
4) Check the overflow bottle for the cooling system. This should also be bright green and if he was running water, you will easily be able to see this.
5) Take her up to 65 mph and listen for any vibrations and shimmy in the wheel. Punch her, if the owner will let you, and see if there are any noises etc.
6) Brake pretty hard to see how she stops.
7) Get your self a BlueDriver and check for stored codes and get her up to operating temp 10+ miles and monitor the fuel trims. The LTFT should be steady and LTFT and STFT added together should be within +/- 10% at idle and while driving should stay within this range with some variations from time to time.
8) When you get back, get under her and check for leaks where the transmission and engine mate. This is in relation to the rear main seal (RMS).
9) Check for leaks around the oil filter. This is a known problem area for leaks.
10) Run the engine with the oil cap off when the engine has warmed to operating temp, this is to check for blow by. Shouldn't be a problem with the lower mileage block, but you should do this just in case.
My only real issue is this is a 2000 that had a 0331 head installed from the factory. Based on what was said about the blown piston and the block being swapped, it was most likely a result of a cracked head destroying the motor. Sounds like he pretty much rebuilt the entire top end and the valve train and settled for a new block for the lower end and replaced the gaskets on it for a refresh. Also, I would see what other's thoughts are on the unibody braces that he has installed.
As I note, I was quoted near me at $225 for headliner replacement, but I have an SE without any above head speakers or heads up console.
Not a bad price, but money talks and if you have cash in hand, say $5000 to $5500, he may take it. The most he could do is say no. Don't make an emotional purchase.
These are 2 links that are pretty good in terms of what to look for, 1 for a Cherokee and 1 for just cars in general:
The front axle pinion seal appears to be leaking. Easy fix, but something to take into consideration. Also, I am not an expert, but it looks like a low pinion D30 which was installed on XJ's in '00.
Things to check as you don't want a headache:
1) Maintenance records on antifreeze changes. This is in relation to making sure the heater core is healthy and in good shape. Pain to change it out if it develops a leak. In relation to this, check the passenger side floor for wetness of the smell of antifreeze. If its just wet, it may be rain from the seals that tend to leak in the dash.
2) Make sure the oil on the oil cap is not milky, this suggests a cracked head. You should be fine if the head was swapped as it sounds like it was.
3) Take the radiator cap off and check for signs of oil. You want her to be bright green.
4) Check the overflow bottle for the cooling system. This should also be bright green and if he was running water, you will easily be able to see this.
5) Take her up to 65 mph and listen for any vibrations and shimmy in the wheel. Punch her, if the owner will let you, and see if there are any noises etc.
6) Brake pretty hard to see how she stops.
7) Get your self a BlueDriver and check for stored codes and get her up to operating temp 10+ miles and monitor the fuel trims. The LTFT should be steady and LTFT and STFT added together should be within +/- 10% at idle and while driving should stay within this range with some variations from time to time.
8) When you get back, get under her and check for leaks where the transmission and engine mate. This is in relation to the rear main seal (RMS).
9) Check for leaks around the oil filter. This is a known problem area for leaks.
10) Run the engine with the oil cap off when the engine has warmed to operating temp, this is to check for blow by. Shouldn't be a problem with the lower mileage block, but you should do this just in case.
My only real issue is this is a 2000 that had a 0331 head installed from the factory. Based on what was said about the blown piston and the block being swapped, it was most likely a result of a cracked head destroying the motor. Sounds like he pretty much rebuilt the entire top end and the valve train and settled for a new block for the lower end and replaced the gaskets on it for a refresh. Also, I would see what other's thoughts are on the unibody braces that he has installed.
As I note, I was quoted near me at $225 for headliner replacement, but I have an SE without any above head speakers or heads up console.
Not a bad price, but money talks and if you have cash in hand, say $5000 to $5500, he may take it. The most he could do is say no. Don't make an emotional purchase.
These are 2 links that are pretty good in terms of what to look for, 1 for a Cherokee and 1 for just cars in general:
Trending Topics
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 337
Likes: 33
From: Latonia,Kentucky
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 fresh rebuild
I was able to do my headliner for $75.00 . e-Bay has many choices for material and if you look for it some include the spray adhesive it took me about 3 hours including R&R .
Link > https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...abric&_sacat=0
Link > https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...abric&_sacat=0
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6
I was able to do my headliner for $75.00 . e-Bay has many choices for material and if you look for it some include the spray adhesive it took me about 3 hours including R&R .
Link > https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...abric&_sacat=0
Link > https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...abric&_sacat=0
Also, one thing I forgot to add was to monitor operating temp with BlueDriver
The XJ tends to run 'hot.' Typical operating temps are 95 to 100 ºC or 200 to 215 ºF or so.
As reference, my XJ runs at 96 to 98 ºC consistently around town and on the highway and will go up to about 102 or 103 ºC in stop and go traffic with a higher ambient temp in the 80's to 90's. If the thermostat was changed out to a higher or lower temp unit, this will change readings.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 802
Likes: 140
From: NJ
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Truck really looks well put together. I would definitely look at fixing some of the body damage on the rear gate and doors. More people (mall crawlers) will probably be interested in it if it looks cleaner. If you can do it for the price you suggested, its a no brainer. However if you are just looking to get rid of it quick, you could probably ask 7000 for it and see what kind of bites you get.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Northern Burbs of Chicago
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Hi thanks for the comments, I added some notes in your comments.
Thank you for all of the help and input.
Does the front end on this have free spinning hubs? "Warn front lockers" That is around a $1k upgrade. Looks like he has quite a bit of money in the axles. With just parts alone, you are looking around $3 to $4k, maybe even upwards of $5k if you take into consideration what kind of lockers he has and free spin hubs with a brake upgrade. If the brakes are not XJ brakes, make sure he tells you the vehicle they were sourced from, rotor size and brake pad part number. I need to check on these and call the original owner.
The front axle pinion seal appears to be leaking. Easy fix, but something to take into consideration. Also, I am not an expert, but it looks like a low pinion D30 which was installed on XJ's in '00. I see it may be a touch damp from oil but not dripping. The drip is dry silicone from the gasket. I will call the original owner and ask about the differentials.
Things to check as you don't want a headache:
1) Maintenance records on antifreeze changes. This is in relation to making sure the heater core is healthy and in good shape. Pain to change it out if it develops a leak. In relation to this, check the passenger side floor for wetness of the smell of antifreeze. If its just wet, it may be rain from the seals that tend to leak in the dash. It has a replace heater core and radiator.
2) Make sure the oil on the oil cap is not milky, this suggests a cracked head. You should be fine if the head was swapped as it sounds like it was. Looks good and it we put in a remanufactured TUPY 331 head.
3) Take the radiator cap off and check for signs of oil. You want her to be bright green. All new with replaced engine.
4) Check the overflow bottle for the cooling system. This should also be bright green and if he was running water, you will easily be able to see this. It has a replaced heater core and new radiator. We flushed everything when we put in the replacement engine.
5) Take her up to 65 mph and listen for any vibrations and shimmy in the wheel. Punch her, if the owner will let you, and see if there are any noises etc. No vibrations and goes straight down the road.
6) Brake pretty hard to see how she stops. New Brakes all around and stops well.
7) Get your self a BlueDriver and check for stored codes and get her up to operating temp 10+ miles and monitor the fuel trims. The LTFT should be steady and LTFT and STFT added together should be within +/- 10% at idle and while driving should stay within this range with some variations from time to time. I will check this with my scan tool.
8) When you get back, get under her and check for leaks where the transmission and engine mate. This is in relation to the rear main seal (RMS). Rear Main seal and trans converter seals are dry.
9) Check for leaks around the oil filter. This is a known problem area for leaks. All dry and I used Felpro gaskets when we put it together.
10) Run the engine with the oil cap off when the engine has warmed to operating temp, this is to check for blow by. Shouldn't be a problem with the lower mileage block, but you should do this just in case. I will check but it was a lower mile short block.
My only real issue is this is a 2000 that had a 0331 head installed from the factory. Based on what was said about the blown piston and the block being swapped, it was most likely a result of a cracked head destroying the motor. Sounds like he pretty much rebuilt the entire top end and the valve train and settled for a new block for the lower end and replaced the gaskets on it for a refresh. Also, I would see what other's thoughts are on the unibody braces that he has installed. We put the engine together with the reman head and 98k mile bottom end and it runs great. The original owner was a metal worker and he did some amazing work and all of it was in stainless steel. I believe it was a labor of love!
As I note, I was quoted near me at $225 for headliner replacement, but I have an SE without any above head speakers or heads up console. We need to tackle this next.
Not a bad price, but money talks and if you have cash in hand, say $5000 to $5500, he may take it. The most he could do is say no. Don't make an emotional purchase. Actually we own this XJ now but my son is looking or more MPG when he heads to school. We are trying to figure out how much to sell it for after all of the work and money invested. I understand we will never get it back but just trying to figure out a fair price.
These are 2 links that are pretty good in terms of what to look for, 1 for a Cherokee and 1 for just cars in general:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHUkUL-Lhgo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vC8LbvYk6es
The front axle pinion seal appears to be leaking. Easy fix, but something to take into consideration. Also, I am not an expert, but it looks like a low pinion D30 which was installed on XJ's in '00. I see it may be a touch damp from oil but not dripping. The drip is dry silicone from the gasket. I will call the original owner and ask about the differentials.
Things to check as you don't want a headache:
1) Maintenance records on antifreeze changes. This is in relation to making sure the heater core is healthy and in good shape. Pain to change it out if it develops a leak. In relation to this, check the passenger side floor for wetness of the smell of antifreeze. If its just wet, it may be rain from the seals that tend to leak in the dash. It has a replace heater core and radiator.
2) Make sure the oil on the oil cap is not milky, this suggests a cracked head. You should be fine if the head was swapped as it sounds like it was. Looks good and it we put in a remanufactured TUPY 331 head.
3) Take the radiator cap off and check for signs of oil. You want her to be bright green. All new with replaced engine.
4) Check the overflow bottle for the cooling system. This should also be bright green and if he was running water, you will easily be able to see this. It has a replaced heater core and new radiator. We flushed everything when we put in the replacement engine.
5) Take her up to 65 mph and listen for any vibrations and shimmy in the wheel. Punch her, if the owner will let you, and see if there are any noises etc. No vibrations and goes straight down the road.
6) Brake pretty hard to see how she stops. New Brakes all around and stops well.
7) Get your self a BlueDriver and check for stored codes and get her up to operating temp 10+ miles and monitor the fuel trims. The LTFT should be steady and LTFT and STFT added together should be within +/- 10% at idle and while driving should stay within this range with some variations from time to time. I will check this with my scan tool.
8) When you get back, get under her and check for leaks where the transmission and engine mate. This is in relation to the rear main seal (RMS). Rear Main seal and trans converter seals are dry.
9) Check for leaks around the oil filter. This is a known problem area for leaks. All dry and I used Felpro gaskets when we put it together.
10) Run the engine with the oil cap off when the engine has warmed to operating temp, this is to check for blow by. Shouldn't be a problem with the lower mileage block, but you should do this just in case. I will check but it was a lower mile short block.
My only real issue is this is a 2000 that had a 0331 head installed from the factory. Based on what was said about the blown piston and the block being swapped, it was most likely a result of a cracked head destroying the motor. Sounds like he pretty much rebuilt the entire top end and the valve train and settled for a new block for the lower end and replaced the gaskets on it for a refresh. Also, I would see what other's thoughts are on the unibody braces that he has installed. We put the engine together with the reman head and 98k mile bottom end and it runs great. The original owner was a metal worker and he did some amazing work and all of it was in stainless steel. I believe it was a labor of love!
As I note, I was quoted near me at $225 for headliner replacement, but I have an SE without any above head speakers or heads up console. We need to tackle this next.
Not a bad price, but money talks and if you have cash in hand, say $5000 to $5500, he may take it. The most he could do is say no. Don't make an emotional purchase. Actually we own this XJ now but my son is looking or more MPG when he heads to school. We are trying to figure out how much to sell it for after all of the work and money invested. I understand we will never get it back but just trying to figure out a fair price.
These are 2 links that are pretty good in terms of what to look for, 1 for a Cherokee and 1 for just cars in general:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHUkUL-Lhgo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vC8LbvYk6es
Thank you for all of the help and input.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6
I am an idiot. I completely misread the initial post that you are looking to sell. I thought you were looking to buy.
I agree that $6300 is a pretty solid price if you weren't going to address anything else, as above list it for $7k and see what happens. I would try to get at least $6k for it.
Please disregard my entire post as I was writing it from the perspective of you being a potential buyer...
Those however are the things that I would look at.
I agree that $6300 is a pretty solid price if you weren't going to address anything else, as above list it for $7k and see what happens. I would try to get at least $6k for it.
Please disregard my entire post as I was writing it from the perspective of you being a potential buyer...
Those however are the things that I would look at.
Last edited by jburg318; Jun 19, 2019 at 10:46 AM.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Northern Burbs of Chicago
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Truck really looks well put together. I would definitely look at fixing some of the body damage on the rear gate and doors. More people (mall crawlers) will probably be interested in it if it looks cleaner. If you can do it for the price you suggested, its a no brainer. However if you are just looking to get rid of it quick, you could probably ask 7000 for it and see what kind of bites you get.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Northern Burbs of Chicago
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
I am an idiot. I completely misread the initial post that you are looking to sell. I thought you were looking to buy.
I agree that $6300 is a pretty solid price if you weren't going to address anything else, as above list it for $7k and see what happens. I would try to get at least $6k for it.
Please disregard my entire post as I was writing it from the perspective of you being a potential buyer...
Those however are the things that I would look at.
I agree that $6300 is a pretty solid price if you weren't going to address anything else, as above list it for $7k and see what happens. I would try to get at least $6k for it.
Please disregard my entire post as I was writing it from the perspective of you being a potential buyer...
Those however are the things that I would look at.
No problem I appreciate all of the info. I still need to look at doing the doors and tail gate.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 802
Likes: 140
From: NJ
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Save the original driver door if possible so you have the proper vin info (some people love that stuff).