I just got new 4.5” leaf spring from rubicon express and will be hopefully changing them out this weekend. I’ve never done this before but it looks pretty straight forward. The guy I bought the Jeep from had recently put on rough country springs and that was maybe 4 years ago so I’m hoping to bolts come off easy. Like I said it looks pretty straight but since I’ve never done this before is there any tips or anything I should know before getting into it?

 

It never hurts to review the threads. Crank the tunes and have fun.

 

Well that's the most important part of the job. Those damn bolts. Do yourself a favor and get a wire tube brush up on the exposed threads of the bolts. Try to get them as clean as possible and spray them down with your favorite rust penetrating lube. Do this a few times, well in advance of the job. Hopefully the guy who installed them last put some anti-seize on the bolts, but some lazy jokers like to install bolts dry. Make sure you have a giant breaker bar or a high torque impact wrench. Also, be careful of the brake lines as you remove the leaf springs. One time, as I pulled out the 2nd bolt of the leaf spring, the spring fell down directly on the brake line and snapped it. Take care of any rust while your in there too. Get some wire brushes, scotch brite & some paint.

 

I like your style Randy, full send fix things after the fact XDD

 

Like others have said, the front bolts are a *****. I found heat really helped. Wouldn't be a bad idea to have an extra set of bolts on hand incase it goes south and you have to start cutting. A lot of good reading on here for removing them/fixing it when they're difficult.

 

I was wanting to buy new bolts incase I snap one. I have the dana 44 so what size bolts are those?

 

Leaf spring bolts are Class 12.9 M14x2.0x120 Flange Pilot Point. That's a pretty specific fastener. Hardware stores don't usually carry AISI 4135 Class 12.9 bolts, especially a flanged pilot point version. If you spend some time cleaning the threads of the nuts inside the frame, you could use Class 10.9 bolts no problem. You could use Hex bolts as well, if you install them with Hardened or Belleville washers. I use Belmetric for Metric fasteners and BoltDepot for SAE.

https://www.belmetric.com/14x20-coar...52sdvifne145h1

https://www.belmetric.com/steel-hv20...52sdvifne145h1

https://www.belmetric.com/steel-mech...52sdvifne145h1

https://www.belmetric.com/coarse-thr...52sdvifne145h1

https://www.quadratec.com/p/crown-au...xoCtNQQAvD_BwE

 

I had read that when you replace the leaf springs that you don't fully tighten the bolts for the shackle until the weight of the vehicle is on the spring. Is that the way to do it or does it not matter?

 

Ya, that's what we did. I would think it would be easier on the bushing to tighten them at ride level.

As far as the bolts, I got them strait from the dealer for about 4 bucks a pop. Only took a day or 2 to get them ordered in to Smalltown Montana.

 

I"m so much excited to know more about it. Thanks a lot for sharing.

 

i don't think you will have to worry about the bolts breaking. they're pretty stout bolts. it's the encapsulated nut that is tacked inside the frame/body that will be your problem. and you can't get in there to spray those.
if you do break the encapsulated nut, you will need to cut a hole in the spring pocket to access the nut with a wrench. i think it's 3/4" if i recall. there are pics around the net. don't cut through the floor like some has. just cut a small window from below. it won't hurt the structural integrity, as one may think.

hope the rear bolts are not seized in the bushing, otherwise, you will need to cut them.

 

The welded hex nuts and exposed threads of the leaf spring bolts are absolutely accessible. There are holes on the inboard part of the unibody frame rail that are adjacent to those fasteners. I like to get a stainless tube brush up there to get the threads as clean as possible, and then blast the threads with a long reach rust penetrant. Heating the bolts will help as well. The primary issue with those bolts is the red loctite that was used by the factory. You'll notice once you get them out, that there is a lot of trash in the threads. That's red loctite and rust.




https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Another dumb question but ill be changing them at my friends shop so I have a nice warm garage to work in. He's lives 30 miles from me and im not sure about what he has for tools so can anybody tell me what im gonna need?

 

When you do a leaf spring lift, do you have to put in new aftermarket shackles or can you use the stock ones?

 

You can certainly retain the stock shackles but it would be a good idea to replace them. The bushings and the bolts can get beaten up pretty bad. That's why I like this kit from Moog. It comes with new bushings and new grade 12.9 bolts. You're question might stem from seeing "Lift Shackles" or "Adjustable Shackles" being available. Those are an inexpensive way to achieve a little more lift in the rear without replacing the whole leaf springs. I like to just use stock replacement shackles and let the lift come from the leaf packs.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...63384&jsn=1032