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I paid $350 for this 98 Jeep Cherokee (Running and Driving after charging the battery but 2 wheel drive) with no rust, a buddy just bought a 2001 with a bad trans for $400, why would you do all that work for something that will never be 100% right ????? What if it later rolls and kills someone, imagine the liability for that one after replacing the roof yourself.
I say go for it. It can be done, and a lot less work than swapping a shell. You need to set up a good jig and brace it well. If you add bracing the pillars and the rest of the welds it will stiffen up the unibody quite a bit. Make sure you don't burn through with the welder, and add reinforcement to all the welds.
I welded a new roof on one and definitely felt less body flex wheeling. The key is prep, and accurate measurements. If you're good with a welder, the welds will be stronger than the surrounding metal. Just make sure your skills are up to the task, or your helpers skills.
I paid $350 for this 98 Jeep Cherokee (Running and Driving after charging the battery but 2 wheel drive) with no rust, a buddy just bought a 2001 with a bad trans for $400, why would you do all that work for something that will never be 100% right ????? What if it later rolls and kills someone, imagine the liability for that one after replacing the roof yourself.
^^ This right here is excellent advice, an 100% correct about all points mentioned
Originally Posted by Hi desert xj
I say go for it. It can be done, and a lot less work than swapping a shell. You need to set up a good jig and brace it well. If you add bracing the pillars and the rest of the welds it will stiffen up the unibody quite a bit. Make sure you don't burn through with the welder, and add reinforcement to all the welds.
I welded a new roof on one and definitely felt less body flex wheeling. The key is prep, and accurate measurements. If you're good with a welder, the welds will be stronger than the surrounding metal. Just make sure your skills are up to the task, or your helpers skills.
^^^ This is so extremely bad advice. Following this advice would be like taking the advice of that guy who tells us "yea your jeep can make it down that trail, it's got four wheel drive doesn't it." We all know that guys name ; it's the one we are cussing out while we are stuck half way down that trail.
The only caveat being if your making a trail only vehicle. Then it's not too bad to do this.
Look at the picture of the damage on the first page, Notice the dents in the rear quarter by the gas door, it appears the whole back of the jeep curved up when the tree feel, I am betting the rear spring perches are higher, the unibody is tweaked, and more.
Anything short of putting this on a frame straightening machine, making the unibody square again, and re-enforcing it all with a roll bar system to keep it straight and not tweaking again is FOOLISH IN MY OPINION (unless maybe you own the body shop). And spending that kind of money and time on a Jeep XJ is foolish, I love my XJ's but lets face it... the bodies are disposable. That is the GREAT thing about them, you can get them so cheap that if you trash yours you just buy another one and move everything over!!!!!!
Plus if you buy another body you can probably sell everything you don't need to pay for it. Or have some nice spare parts laying around.
The pic doesn't display for me. When I did mine I had access to a frame machine and body shop, and everything was still in spec minus the roof so I was able to repair it. I don't have the welding skills or time now that I had then. I just don't practice regularly enough anymore.
But as you say they are disposable and the unused parts and scrap metal can pay for the new body.
The only way I would ever consider doing that is if that jeep has significant sentimental value and you have no regard for money. With that being said it absolutely needs to be straightened, and I would absolutely put stiffiners and a cage on it. That jeep has lost its strength. Might as well tub the rear out while you're at it.
