So I been working on my jeep for the last few months and finally got my no lift shackle relocation in and needless to say I'm atleast 1-2" higher in the rear and I want to try and help the Transfer Case to pinion angle out, Would putting a coil spacer in front to level it out with the rear help with the angle? Its not hopping or vibrating at this height but I would like to make sure its not on the borderline. By the way I don't have a SYE in because its a 1994, I believe back in the day I put in a extended yolk and that's it.

Specs so you know what you are dealing with.

Old School Currie Short arms with Johnny Joints. Top is fixed with 2 mounting points for different lengths and the bottom is a high clearance adjustable short arm. Soon I will be putting in a Long Arm setup for the front so I can get the front to ride nice.
4.5" Rubicon Express Coils with Stock Coil spacer
4.5" Rubicon Express Leafs
Custom Shackle at 5" eye to eye
4.5-5.5 Rubicon Express Mono Tubes.
HD Offroad No Lift shackle relocation bracket. and Im in the furthest back and top slot for a good angle on the shackle to leaf spring. Still have to cut a few spots in the mount so my shackle doesn't bump into it as much when flexing.
Also currently have the rear sway bar out for now till I can fab up the relocation bracket for it.

So if you have experience in Frankenstein lifts please give me an idea for what to do because this bad boy needs to get back out on the road.

 

Well for starters id just not worry about that rear sway bar because leaf springs do enough. Rear sway bar doesn't do anything for you.

 

But from the sounds of it, I'd say if it's not making noises and your jeep doesn't look like it's nose diving I wouldn't mess with it. But then again a 1" spacer wouldn't hurt anything. Just my opinion.

 

Pic Of shackle angle could help a lot. I know you said angles good...but furthest, highest hole back...seems like, with XJ leafs at least...it would be to steep. Also seems like it would bottom out on the rear crossmember before full compression. And that would explain the 2 extra inches of lift. My Xj is a mess of random parts that all work great together. Same with my last one... Might have a few tricks for you...

As for driveline angles go, lifting the front more won't help the rear drive shaft angle. Rear pinion angle will still be the same. And tcase, well won't move...simply gain a bit of clearance under the crossmember is all that will do.

Best bet is to bite the bullet and order an SYE, hack and tap or full kit. Cherokees do not come with them from the factory...being a 94 you will probably need the shorter tail cone. Unless it's been swapped out already.

 

So this is what hole I have it in and the angle roughly when it sits. I couldn't take pix because I just got off work and its laid up in the garage right now.




I plan to try the lower hole 1 slot back to test and then just load the rear up with some weight so I can bring it down a tad since my shackle length is around that of rubicon express standard shackles. Might help flatten out these brand new springs.

 

I was thinking you meant the total opposite. Like hole closest to the rear of jeep. Lol but looks like you'd have a good shackle angle. New springs will almost always give more lift then they call for. Weight it down drive for a month and see if she levels out..other wise could always go shorter shackle/front spacer if it bugs you that much.

I know it's bug me. I like the jeep level, or front a tad bit higher..."Carolina squat" as some call it...hot rod look just doesn't look right on lifted station wagons like ours.

 

Ya I like a tiny bit higher in the rear and that's it, hence the 4.5" leafs with 4.5" coils, but hopefully with about 400-500lbs in the rear it will make it a little more tolerable. 5.25 in rear and just around 5 in front seems to be the best look I would like in it.

 

So I found the sweet spot on the shackle relocation mount. Here are some teaser pix


The Way she sits now. I plan to put new spacers up front to even it out a little.


The shackle mount prior to painting.


Teaser of the fresh new front end work (Not complete yet ) I just got done putting the durango box in and holy cow is it strong. And yes dual stabilizers aren't needed but its so nice to have when you want to drive down the road with only a finger, especially the horrible roads of the Siouxland area.


All I have left to do is put my long arm kit, RE1660 Trackbar and brace kit, Steering box brace and rear disc brakes off a Liberty on and I'm rolling on a completely rebuilt drivetrain after all this is done I save up the money to work on the body and interior to turn it into a clean original Dark Silver Metallic 2 Door with added armor and style

 

So a little update on the work. I have the angles down and everything seems ok.... except when I'm going around curves at like 40-50 mph... seems to be like the axle is turning slightly now almost like axle wrap but not. The only thing I can think of that could solve that feeling would be traction bars on both sides tied into the frame. Not limiting the flex just giving it some strength to keep the axle from shifting or turning. What do you guys think? Make like a Adjustable control arm sort of like a long arm kit so to speak and then just dial it in to keep it straight and then if I decide to do a coil conversion half the work is done already down the road. Possibly cost me about $150 for all the parts to be fabbed up and I do the work putting it on.