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Old 09-13-2011, 07:08 PM
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Default Need help deciding what to do

So for the past few months ive been saving and planning my lift. I started off wanting a 4.5" w/ 33's. Then i went down to a 3" w/ 32's. Now im thinking of doing no lift(or a 2" bb) and 31's. Money is tight, everyone knows that. Im in the fire academy right now so most of my time is spend there or studying so it leaves little time for work. So my question is, Should i do a 3" w/ 32's or no lift with 31's and use my money to do other mods? Eventually i want to do a 6.5" with clayton long arms. But thats down the road a ways. Btw ive already trimmed my fenders and im willing to trim more if need be.
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:19 PM
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TRUST me when I say this... save your money until you can build it the way you want - do it ONCE, otherwise they become a money pit and you're always wishing you'd have just waited a while and done it right the first time... for now, put your money into things that you won't be looking to change later. And let me say thank you for your service (even if it's in the future).
Old 09-13-2011, 07:35 PM
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You make a good point. Thats why i was looking at no lift or just a 2" with 31's. I just need some beefier tires because all that is in florida is mud. And right now my tires do crap in mud. And thanks. The people that appreciate what we do are the ones that make the job worth while.
Old 09-13-2011, 07:49 PM
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No matter what, if ya plan on doing anything other than a BB lift wise, then consider what else goes into making it functional. What I mean is, along with the lift, there is the steering and driveline components that must be upgraded. Then, and this is true for me and is by no means a law , ya really gotta decide if your rig is a DD, or a WW. cause if it's both, it's gonna get expensive. for me it's been constant u joints replacement, ball joints, alignments, tre's, suspension ****... I have been known to drive like 1000+ miles a month at times, and I know that this contributes to the wear and tear, but.. Idk.. Ya get my point.. Like I said, my 02..

Oh, and mud will FUBAR your ****..
Old 09-13-2011, 08:04 PM
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I like your thinking on things. I think im going to to just zj coils and an xj bastard pack and 31's. Then do stearing and lockers and things of that nature and then down the road do my bigger lift.


And trust me, mud is not my most favorite thing but down here, you end up driving through mud if it rains hard for more than an hour!
Old 09-13-2011, 08:27 PM
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33s and a 3" is a GREAT place to be...

esp since you are not afraid to cut...

just get a rough country 3" kit for cheap, relocate or replace your brake lines with longer ones (1994 Dakota rear soft line and 1994 Chevy c1500 front soft lines...)

you can get either the kit with new lower control arms or the kit without, the one with new lower control arms will flex a good bit more...

when you get the 3" kit call the guys at Rough country and request the shocks for a 4.5-6" lift then make sure to bump stop accordingly...


then later on you can add a new 1.5" lift shackle 1.5"-2" front coil spacer...

(maybe even a shackle relocation box the one I built only added about .25" of lift, I could have made it do 0" but I wanted a little more height too)

bing bang boom you are up to 4.5 maybe a tick over... the stock uppers will work fine at around 4.5" of lift



that is basically what I started with... the cheapest 3" Rough country kit... I bought some used front upper and lower control arms off a 2009 JK Rubicon, made some adjustable frame side mount for the arms, added a 1.5" lift shackle, traded my 3" coils for brand new 4.5" Rough Country 4.5" coils (they are actually sitting around 5.5...) and some shackle relocation boxes...

I am sitting at almost 5.5" front and 4.75" in the rear (looks perfectly level)

I can now max out a nearly 30" long shock in the front and a 28" long shock in the rear...

what I am getting at is to clear 33" all you need is trimming and 4.5", or lots of trimming and 3" of lift

you still need to trim a little at 6.5" of lift... so why bother

I can tell you that my ride is not as tight in the corners as it used to be at 3"... at 4.5" it flexes a bit more... 6.5" man I don't know... I will leave it to you brother...

it's not like you are going to run anything taller than a 33" tire on stock axles... and with trimming you CAN fit 35s on 4.5"... hell I have room for 35s now...
Old 09-13-2011, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ericfx1984
33s and a 3" is a GREAT place to be...

esp since you are not afraid to cut...

just get a rough country 3" kit for cheap, relocate or replace your brake lines with longer ones (1994 Dakota rear soft line and 1994 Chevy c1500 front soft lines...)

you can get either the kit with new lower control arms or the kit without, the one with new lower control arms will flex a good bit more...

when you get the 3" kit call the guys at Rough country and request the shocks for a 4.5-6" lift then make sure to bump stop accordingly...

then later on you can add a new 1.5" lift shackle 1.5"-2" front coil spacer...

(maybe even a shackle relocation box the one I built only added about .25" of lift, I could have made it do 0" but I wanted a little more height too)

bing bang boom you are up to 4.5 maybe a tick over... the stock uppers will work fine at around 4.5" of lift

that is basically what I started with... the cheapest 3" Rough country kit... I bought some used front upper and lower control arms off a 2009 JK Rubicon, made some adjustable frame side mount for the arms, added a 1.5" lift shackle, traded my 3" coils for brand new 4.5" Rough Country 4.5" coils (they are actually sitting around 5.5...) and some shackle relocation boxes...

I am sitting at almost 5.5" front and 4.75" in the rear (looks perfectly level)

I can now max out a nearly 30" long shock in the front and a 28" long shock in the rear...

what I am getting at is to clear 33" all you need is trimming and 4.5", or lots of trimming and 3" of lift

you still need to trim a little at 6.5" of lift... so why bother

I can tell you that my ride is not as tight in the corners as it used to be at 3"... at 4.5" it flexes a bit more... 6.5" man I don't know... I will leave it to you brother...

it's not like you are going to run anything taller than a 33" tire on stock axles... and with trimming you CAN fit 35s on 4.5"... hell I have room for 35s now...
Sounds like you have a great set up man! There is another post going that has a link thats dedicated to low cog design w/ big tires.. Suffice to say the guy talks about using the combination of longer suspension/bump stops to allow for a lot of down travel w/o a lot of wheel stuffing... I wish I could find the thread..I'm working on it, though..
Old 09-13-2011, 08:53 PM
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3" on 33s











4.5" and 33s






6.5" and 33s

this is a local boy I know

Old 09-13-2011, 08:58 PM
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Here it is! This thread kicks ***!
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/low...ks-tips-32980/
Old 09-13-2011, 09:24 PM
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I've read that thread a few times. That's basically what I'm shooting for. I'm just hesitant on what setup I wana start with
Old 09-13-2011, 09:38 PM
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Then that gives you time to save! idk..
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