your cheapest bet would probably be to buy a same year wreck

If you have space and time

I got a non-goer for $450, cost $100 tow and $100 for parts to get it going

(At least I didnt fit the parts in front of the seller and drive off)

I swapped a lot of parts off that truck onto mine, and its kept me on the road a few times

 

Absolutely & it doesn't have to be the same year, providing it shares most of the parts you need.

(my '96 has been harvested for parts to keep my '98 & '99 going for years)

 

What the junkyard situation over on the west side of WA? It's getting pretty hard to find any XJs at the local yards. I'd check if that rear axle is straight before digging into it too much.

That pink paint around the wheel wells makes it look like they ran over a unicorn.

 

hey guys, sorry for a bit of a delay. I was looking into buying a different jeep and found what would have been a perfect 2-door. But... alas it just didn't work out. The owner had a minor accident, messed up the passenger side front fender. I almost walked from that, but figured what the heck, it's just a reskin and new front grill, which I already have. that was 2 days prior to me getting it. day of, he informs me that it can't drive more than 45, and i'm an hour drive away from him normally... this would have bled into the night, with no headlights. then, as I'm beginning to head to him, he informs me that the slave cylinder failed on it. So I scramble, get a tow arranged. head out again. 15 minutes later, tow falls through. to much happened, I couldn't talk him lower than $1650, and so I walked. It just sucked because I had already made so many concessions to make this thing work.

So, after all that drama, I'm exhausted. I'm not going to look for a new one. I'm going to make mine work. It's going to be a hard battle, especially since I insist on fixing everything myself. I have watched multiple youtube videos on repairing or rebuilding an 8.25, but I need to ask a few questions from you guys.
1st time doing this. what all is involved in a regear? I've been thinking of getting 29 spline conversion, might as well start since I'm going to have to rebuild.
Lockers. I'd love to, again since I've got it apart, install a locker. I want manual, no OBA or electric setups. Yukon and Ox have been the top of my list now for a while. the only question is how to measure or know what length I need for the cable?

I'd like any advice at this point. I'm going to be replacing my leaf springs and cross member as well. thanks!

 

Should have taken that cell phone you found to the police to track who stole the vehicle, then fry them in court. Or to a buddy who works at a phone store to retrieve names off the device and track them.

Yes, if my name doesn't say it, I believe in vigilate style justice.

 

If you decide regear the rear dif don't forget about the cost/effort to also do the front.

 

I'll presume that the rear pinion damage occurred when the transmission support cross member was hit in reverse. The impact likely pushed the entire drive train forward and put a lot of stress on all the driveline related pinions, bearings, seals and related housings. Evidence of this is the significantly damaged rear pinion and rear springs. Other potential damage could be to the rear spring mounts, transmission, transfer case, front differential, engine mounts and related components. Bearings at risk with the damage we see were designed primarily for taking axial load and not thrust loads (in line with the drive shaft). There is a good chance that many parts saw excessive thrust loads that would be damaging but not readily apparent.

This is not what you want to hear but going forward with this hardware might end up being a long term saga chasing damage in a number of hidden areas that will only be apparent on tear down inspection or putting on miles. Some work will likely have to be done with special tools or by outside shops, such as pulling bearing races, inspecting for cracks and measuring component distortion. It may end up being a lot more technically challenging, frustrating and expensive than it's worth.

 

No, it's not what OP wants to hear but I've no doubt he's going into this with his eyes open

Much of the possible damage you mention will be obvious in a visual inspection &, if needs be, he'll have to replace other drive line components from a JY - unless he does manage to scrounge up a parts donor.

 

I've been looking into parts jeeps as well, haven't had much luck that direction. @third_coast, I accept that there might be a lot more than meets the eye. I still hold that my first stop is a full tear down of the rear end, however based on what you've mentioned (which makes total sense, and I GREATLY appreciate!!!) I will be checking transmission for damages as well.
I'm not averse to growth work. Part of my stubbornness is that value can't be measured in dollars all the time. Where one person sees money as an obstacle, I see chances to improve my understanding of the systems. I'm not averse to rebuilding this part, only to discover this other part also needs looked at. If the BODY is good then I can do almost anything else. My unibody is not stressed anywhere that I've been able to discern, but I will be looking at shackle mounts, shock perches, etc.
I have a loaner vehicle for "as long as I need". That opens up the ability to take all the doors off, seats, carpeting, and start working on removing all the truck liner that the PO put on pretty terribly. Shes probably in layup for months, due to my time availability. I'm actually excited to do a whole makeover and rebuild. I will be leaning on you guys for advice on how to repair certain things, and advice for certain rebuilding options, such as regearing.

@UKXJ, you are absolutely correct. I know the road ahead is gonna be rough, but not insurmountable. Thanks for the vote of confidence!

 

HA HA!!! I wish that worked here in Washington. The police wouldn't even try to turn it on, just said it was up to me to dispose of it.

 

If the pinion is loose and messed up like you said, you cannot assume the axle housing and pumpkin are still true.

I found this out the hard way on a rear end that had been hit

I think I would remove the diff cover, inspect for visible damage

 

Just started on your build thread so now better understand your determination & motivation - and have no doubts you won't see this thru'

 

ahh thanks for that info. I will check that! am I just looking for damage to the diff and tube? I will google for images but I rely on you guys for expertise

I should like this thread to my build. Nothing is insurmountable!

 

Whether the tubes are straight and not coming off the pumpkin crooked.

 

I have been wondering about the damaged rear springs you reported. Was one or more leaves actually cracked on both sides? Hard to think about what the thieves put your poor Jeep through. When you get a chance take a good look. Damage to the forward spring mount locations or sheared off bolts? Broken rear spring shackles, body mounts or bolts? If the locations where the front spring eyes or rear shackles attach to the body are significantly distorted that could be a tricky repair.

I noticed one of the rear sway bar mount brackets is torn out of the body. You really don't need the rear sway bar so no problem. It was a factory delete with some tow package or skid plate off road options.

Best wishes on progress.