My Jeep Rides Like **** !
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 6,098
Likes: 250
From: DE
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 136
Likes: 2
From: Olympia, WA
Year: 1991, 1997 & 2000 (yeah, I got 3)
Model: Cherokee
Ok, I'll try to answer the questions posed here:
Re: shocks - the shocks are actually supposed to be for 4"& up...but I called RC and they said it would be OK. Both ends have about 3" of open rod before the shock hits the integral rubber bump. So about 3" of uptravel. Which is fine. Droop is limited by swaybar.
Re: bolt tork - I torked the bolts with the suspension at full droop IIRC. Maybe I need to loosen and retork.
Re: shackle angle - scheming on making a set of relocator brackets. Want to minimize lift, but shouldn't gain much if the shackle goes to 45*.
Tires were at 34psi. I lowered to 28 and this did make some improvement. Don't want to go much lower as I mostly drive on-road and minimizing rolling resistance is beneficial.
Re: shocks - the shocks are actually supposed to be for 4"& up...but I called RC and they said it would be OK. Both ends have about 3" of open rod before the shock hits the integral rubber bump. So about 3" of uptravel. Which is fine. Droop is limited by swaybar.
Re: bolt tork - I torked the bolts with the suspension at full droop IIRC. Maybe I need to loosen and retork.
Re: shackle angle - scheming on making a set of relocator brackets. Want to minimize lift, but shouldn't gain much if the shackle goes to 45*.
Tires were at 34psi. I lowered to 28 and this did make some improvement. Don't want to go much lower as I mostly drive on-road and minimizing rolling resistance is beneficial.
Moderator CF K9-unit
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5,842
Likes: 12
From: Alaska
Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
I would put the jeep back up in the air, loosen all bolts up a little, let the Jeep down on its own weight then torque the bolts back up..Just my .02cents
Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 242
Likes: 1
From: Dayton, Ohio
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
As per my 2000 FSM: When installing the rear leaf springs you loosely install all bolts while not resting on it's own weight. Lower until jeep is on its own weight, I lowered mine onto jack stands under the axles. Gently rock side to side and front to back then tighten all bolts to spec.
I have no idea what is supposed to be accomplished by rocking the vehicle but the FSM told me to do it.
I have no idea what is supposed to be accomplished by rocking the vehicle but the FSM told me to do it.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 136
Likes: 2
From: Olympia, WA
Year: 1991, 1997 & 2000 (yeah, I got 3)
Model: Cherokee
As per my 2000 FSM: When installing the rear leaf springs you loosely install all bolts while not resting on it's own weight. Lower until jeep is on its own weight, I lowered mine onto jack stands under the axles. Gently rock side to side and front to back then tighten all bolts to spec.
I have no idea what is supposed to be accomplished by rocking the vehicle but the FSM told me to do it.
I have no idea what is supposed to be accomplished by rocking the vehicle but the FSM told me to do it.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
And for that other poster, the rocking of the jeep settles everything into place
CF Veteran

Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,843
Likes: 2
From: Ross Vegas, Ga
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 w/ tupy head
Moderator CF K9-unit
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5,842
Likes: 12
From: Alaska
Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
Just shooting in the dark here but right after I went to test drive after my lift I heard a huge bang first bump I hit...it was the top of the sway bar link pounding into the fender wheel well. May want to check the link length.
Good luck!! hope this helps~
Good luck!! hope this helps~
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 136
Likes: 2
From: Olympia, WA
Year: 1991, 1997 & 2000 (yeah, I got 3)
Model: Cherokee
Well, tomorrow I'll go out and loosen all the bolts and then retork them with the wheels on the ground. I've learned a trick to get the Jeep up; I've got 4 ramps and I put the thing in 4 low and drive it up on all 4. Makes it easy to roll under and muck around.
And while I'm at it, maybe I'll drop both driveshafts and run the engine to check the rear output shaft. Maybe it could be bent?
Because after rebuilding the front end, changing out the rear end, sorting out the bent axles, replacing ALL the U-joints, repairing & balancing the rear driveshaft, and swapping out a set of brand new tires for and entirely different set of new wheels and tires...the fugger still has a shake when I roll down the road.
Or maybe I'll just stick a rag in the gas tank...
And while I'm at it, maybe I'll drop both driveshafts and run the engine to check the rear output shaft. Maybe it could be bent?
Because after rebuilding the front end, changing out the rear end, sorting out the bent axles, replacing ALL the U-joints, repairing & balancing the rear driveshaft, and swapping out a set of brand new tires for and entirely different set of new wheels and tires...the fugger still has a shake when I roll down the road.
Or maybe I'll just stick a rag in the gas tank...
CF Veteran

Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,843
Likes: 2
From: Ross Vegas, Ga
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 w/ tupy head
Well, tomorrow I'll go out and loosen all the bolts and then retork them with the wheels on the ground. I've learned a trick to get the Jeep up; I've got 4 ramps and I put the thing in 4 low and drive it up on all 4. Makes it easy to roll under and muck around.
And while I'm at it, maybe I'll drop both driveshafts and run the engine to check the rear output shaft. Maybe it could be bent?
Because after rebuilding the front end, changing out the rear end, sorting out the bent axles, replacing ALL the U-joints, repairing & balancing the rear driveshaft, and swapping out a set of brand new tires for and entirely different set of new wheels and tires...the fugger still has a shake when I roll down the road.
Or maybe I'll just stick a rag in the gas tank...
And while I'm at it, maybe I'll drop both driveshafts and run the engine to check the rear output shaft. Maybe it could be bent?
Because after rebuilding the front end, changing out the rear end, sorting out the bent axles, replacing ALL the U-joints, repairing & balancing the rear driveshaft, and swapping out a set of brand new tires for and entirely different set of new wheels and tires...the fugger still has a shake when I roll down the road.
Or maybe I'll just stick a rag in the gas tank...
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 136
Likes: 2
From: Olympia, WA
Year: 1991, 1997 & 2000 (yeah, I got 3)
Model: Cherokee
So I ran the Jeep up on the ramps, loosened all the bushing & shackle fasteners on the rear springs, loosened the lower control arm bolts (they were tight as a nun's ...hat), wiggled and bounced it as much as possible, then tightened everything back up to what would seem a reasonable torkness.
Then I loaded up the dogs and went for a ride. Seems like there might be some improvement out on the road. Maybe out in the back field too, but I have some definite clunkage going on when the suspension hits a bump.
I bought the steel to make shackle re locators today...so maybe I'll git on that tomorrow. I really only need one hole, right? Not a whole row of them.
Then I loaded up the dogs and went for a ride. Seems like there might be some improvement out on the road. Maybe out in the back field too, but I have some definite clunkage going on when the suspension hits a bump.
I bought the steel to make shackle re locators today...so maybe I'll git on that tomorrow. I really only need one hole, right? Not a whole row of them.


