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Modifying Jeep XJ for Mobile Laboratory - Need advice!

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Old Jan 31, 2017 | 02:08 PM
  #16  
mikesignal's Avatar
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From: north carolina
Year: 2000
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an inverter generator will have a clean sine wave, just like an inverter, because that's what it is. A regular gas generator that has an automatic voltage regulator built in will be pretty clean also. I run my gas furnace, which is controlled by a circuit board, with a ridgid 5700 watt generator. I didn't hook up an oscilloscope to it, but I did measure Hz to see how consistent it is; and it it very steady at 60hz. My old powermate generator was all over the place when I measured the Hz on it. I would not use it on my furnace or any other electronics.

I would have to agree with waffles, that anything over 175 is pushing it. Your best bet is to figure out exactly your wattage needs and go from there.

this would solve your problems with one purchase.

http://powerequipment.honda.com/gene...odels/eu3000is



here is another link

http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect....enerators.html





or maybe two of these

http://www.generac.com/all-products/...-series/ix2000

Last edited by mikesignal; Jan 31, 2017 at 02:14 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2017 | 02:31 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by investinwaffles
If you can get away with 175 amps, then a genset might not be necessary, but beyond that you might want to look into getting a genset.

I bet you could get a 4x4 shop to rig up a trailer hitch mount that swings out of the way, but it's alot of weight aft of the rear axle regardless. Mounting it on the roof could be an option depending on how heavy they are, but cumbersome. Really, unless you have a pickup truck, hauling a generator around is less than ideal.

If you end up leaving the engine running with the tailgate open for long periods of time, you may run onto the issue of exhaust blowing back into the cabin. Happens to me quite frequently (the cold Temps make it easier to see due to the water vapor in the exhaust gas. Never seen stacks on an XJ yet
​​
Very good point about the exhaust; it's something we actually experienced in Ghana with their diesel Land Cruisers. One of the items I'd not mentioned in the thread was the exhaust tube that we fit to re-route the exhaust farther away from the work space. It was noxious without that tube during preliminary testing. We quickly learned that re-routing it was a necessity!

I agree with the generator concept; and it would be perfectly suitable for method testing (basically, the equipment we are running is designed for stable (both vibrations and temperature) conditions so we need to ensure the testing and method development incorporate vehicular vibrations and temperature/humidity variances without giving varying results.
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 09:56 AM
  #18  
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From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
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One good point that brought to your attention early was the pusher fan, but it wasn't till later in your posts where it became more of an issue.


If you require the engine to be running while parked with AC and that large alt. used the engine could overheat quite ease. The extra fan would be a help in that case to an extent. how much would depend on the heat.
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 12:18 AM
  #19  
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From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
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Anyone know if the Durango/ZJ Alternator mod applies to his '87?

Mechman makes a 240 amp unit and their alternators are pretty well regarded. The terminals on the back may be different, but it's an easy swap and you might be able to call them and have them do it in advance. Powermax has a cheaper unit but they get terrible reviews mostly.

http://www.mechman.com/alternators/c...r-for-jeep-xj/


Other than that, try it out and see if it's enough power. Obviously you will need some solid wire for the inverter. I really like KnuKonceptz kolossus for the money;

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-au...r-ground-wire/
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 05:46 PM
  #20  
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Have. You thought about solar panels? You can get one on amazon that is large enough to cover the roof and assist in keeping the batteries charged. But you'll be looking at about $200+ for that at least. And maybe do the larger fan clutch. It will be louder but sounds faster so it will really help keep your engine cool. Mine runs cold but it is the winter so I haven't seen how it performs in the summer 100+ temps. And an e-fan upgrade should be considered to pull some more CFMs. And maybe hood vents and hood spacers. Also heat insulation for the interior can help with keeping the inside cooler when being blasted by a hot sun in hot weather.
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 06:39 PM
  #21  
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From: Dawson Springs, KY
Year: 1985
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Originally Posted by MayerMR

The equipment we are powering totals to nearly $100k, so we want to clean the power up as best we can before it gets to the instrument. Additionally, we can't remove the A/C as part of the issue is heat; if one of components of the device gets too hot then we start to experience a delayed or stunted flow of the carrier gas. That said, this issue may be eliminated as we are (and I am strongly pushing for) the use of canisters of the carrier gas - non-flammable fellas

!
GC/MS perhaps?
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 06:33 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by MayerMR
I do need to look into the battery isolator setup as I think that would be a good idea. I'm going to speak with our electrical engineer about it.
It's not a good idea. It's essential for what you want to do. The purpose of it is to make sure you can start your engine. If you have to shut down the engine (say, it's overheating, for example) and you continue to use your equipment, you are at risk of running down both batteries and then being STUCK.

A battery isolator prevents that. Unless your AAA towing policy is effective in Ghana.....


If you are going to run a battery in the back, you'll need some custom cables, not upgrades to the stock cables. You aren't going to power your equipment from the front battery, so the only upgrade you need is the alternator output cable. From there to the back is custom cables. Don't waste your money on 00 or 1 gauge cables for the front. They will do nothing for you. And don't 'upgrade' the head-to-firewall cable. It does not carry any noticeable current, and you don't want it to.

Since you have an electrical engineer on tap, ask him to size the charging cables. Again, the only upgrade you need for this is the charging cable going from the alternator to the battery isolator, and then back to your second battery. Everything else can remain stock, and it will have ZERO effect on your setup.

That said, it's not a bad idea to replace it all now for reliability, and going to 4 gauge is a sensible upgrade, but bigger is just a waste of copper and money. But again, this wiring is NOT going to affect your rear battery setup. It's a separate system.


For the rear battery you want a deep cycle battery, such as a marine battery.

Make life a bit easier and use
military terminals military terminals
on the front batteries. Marine style are okay, too, but for under the hood, I prefer military.

Now, all of that said, I'm with those who are suggesting a generator. I think you are asking a bit much of a Jeep alternator.

You might want to ask your EE to read this thread.
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 08:35 PM
  #23  
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Year: 2000
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This is what I have in my work truck. They also have a 3000 and a 3600. I'm sure if you contact them they will be more than happy to share some knowledge.

http://www.magnum-dimensions.com/pro...erter-n-series


http://www.magnum-dimensions.com/mob...ective%5B%5D=2


http://www.magnum-dimensions.com/

I think the formula is for every amp and alternator puts out you will get 10 watts out of the inverter. So a 100 amp alternator will power 1000 watt inverter

Last edited by mikesignal; Feb 11, 2017 at 08:41 PM.
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 10:21 PM
  #24  
salad's Avatar
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Actually the formula is Volts x Amps = Watts. Then multiply by rated efficiency to determine inverter load.

Generator isn't a bad idea at all now that this is all coming out. I'm not certain WHERE it would go, however. Perhaps a little equipment trailer? The XJ is smaller than every other vehicle you've mentioned so far, I'm kind of curious how big the equipment is.

How many BTU is this gear going to be putting out that you hope the vehicle's AC will be able to keep up?
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