Measure the tires make sure the ones you put on are very very close to each other. You don't have to regear, but it helps. You have to regear both axles you can't do just one. Why don't you try to fit the tires or even roll them up to the truck. I don't know what wheels you have but with 33s chances are they will not fit without spacers or wheels with more back spacing. You should get extended brake lines but worst case you can straighten the hard lines for a little more then bolt them lower.Threads like this are everywhere. Read, just google what you want to ask and chances are someone made a thread of it before.

 

he can regear one axle at a time providing he take off the front driveshaft.

 

If he is asking about putting nonmatching tires on his rig do you think he would take the front shaft out if he did one axle. I personally don't. And wouldn't making his truck 2wd by taking the front shat out defeat the purpose of doing any of this. I would rather not change the gears then have a half assed geared rig.

 

some people do that for temporary when they can afford to do one axle at a time. Doesn't mean it's half assed.

 

Usually when you get gears you get them front and rear. Plenty of vendors have deals for front and rear gears. I have my way of doing it and what I recommend to customers. I disagree with you and would not install one set of gears of someone brought it into my shop. I believe it is half assed. I'm done in this thread I have my .02. Good luck op

 

I'm just saying not everybody is rich enough to do both at same time.

 

So I've decided to go with a 4.5 lift. I have cut out fenders, so room won't be an issue. Got two matching Super Swampers for the back, and two other matching tires for the front. (Not SS.) I measured them, and everything checks out there. The spare will be the odd brand out. Got the rims cleaned up and taken care of today as well. (Took 3 hours...)

I'm planning on doing extended lines, and anybody know the BEST or your FAVORITE lift company? SkyJacker's lifts seem to come with more parts than Rough Country, but I've never used either brand. SJ seem to be pricier, but I don't mind paying extra if it's a good brand.




Side note, I'm a JeepGirl.

 

A 4 1/2" lift costs a lot more money than just the lift kit in what all you will need for it. Neither of those kits are the best of quality either far from it. The 4 1/2" will cost you at the very least $2k more for a short arm over a 3" where you can get by with a lot of your stock items.


The Rustys 3" full leaf/coil, shock, hardware package for $438 and what I started out with because of the quality of the springs in the kit (the most expensive part). I ran this for a year till I had bought enough parts to upgrade my Lift to 4 1/2" using the base 3" kit with Boomerang Shackles and Adj. coil spacers. All of the parts and less than $900 in labor the lift was done with an sye RR sale $99, new driveshaft $199, new gears 4.56's <$500, Detroit Lockers about $1400, install gears and lockers $200 per differential, install sye $200, HD Adj U/LCA's $300, Bilstein Shocks $300, ext. brake lines $135, Dbl. Shear Track Bar $275, Steering upgrades $275, GC V-8 mid 90 tie rods $100. I know that I'm forgetting things but this is the lions share. All together it ran me about $5k to upgrade and do it properly.


One thing you do need to check is the date codes on all of those tires to make sure they are safe to use. Another thing that you need is the proper size wheel for those tires that would be a 15x8" with 3.75-4" of BS to clear the frame rails. Make sure of the BS and the width of the wheel I have seen people stick those large tires on a 7" rim.


Best of luck and this is only an FYI nothing else.

 

I'll have to check the tire dates, good point! And yes, the rims are 15x8.

I figured I'd wind up spending about 5k, so glad to know I was in the ball park there!

Talked to the 4x4 place today, and can get a 4.5 for around 830$ With everything included. (Not gears, but new leaf springs, brake lines, extra.)

Since I don't do rock climbing/trails (Crossing a few shallow creeks don't count as trails, imo.) I don't think I'll need to regear just yet. If I go up any higher, I will for sure. Would it be easier just to do an axle swap?

Also, gonna see how it drives before I add a SYE.

 

At 4.5" it is pretty well agreed upon that an SYE is mandatory. If I were to be lifting my XJ (2000) right now to 4.5" I would be looking into the DPG 4.5" Super Ultimate XJ Old Man Emu Hybrid Kit (http://dpgoffroad.com/products/44-5-...mu-hybrid-kit/). However I am biased, I love my OME springs.

 

At $830 for a full 4 1/2" lift it lacks a lot of required items also what is the brand and all "The included pieces" sounds way to cheap for any kind of quality?


Also who ever told you that you didn't need a sye or gears shouldn't be in the business all they are is lift installers selling cheap crap. The gears alone will cost you at least 5 mpg highway I know that for a fact plus the trans will overheat from all the up/down shifting all the time. As for the SYE well I guess you'll just have to find out when you start replacing everything in the driveline and some in the differential to boot.


I do wish you well and hope everything works out for you.

 

http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-sus...it-633xn2.html

This is the kit I was going to go with. Anyone have any experience with it? and I don't have 5k to do a full regear on this right now. I don't drive far for work (about ten minutes) Would it be cheaper/better to just do an axle swap?

It really seems like there are two sides 'MUST REGEAR!' and 'Not Necessarily'

 

Okay, so doing a little bit more digging, I have no problem doing a SYE....but if a SYE goes in, is it still okay to have a transfer case drop? Will it hurt to have both? Help? Not matter?

Like I said before, a little in over my head, lol.

 

If you do the sye pull the tcase drop because all it is doing is reducing clearance.

You don't need to regear simply because you lift. Changing tire size is when you may need to regear. If your not changing tire size when you lift it is a whole lot cheaper to lift.

 

She's going to 33" tires.


Yes remove the TC drop kit it is hard on the trans and motor mounts. With an SYE and does require another driveshaft, can use another front one from an XJ or others. But I found by the time you buy another shaft, replace the u-joints and everything I bought a new one online for $199 with large joints in it for not much more.


As quality goes the RC kits are not known for that but the kit gives you all the pieces you need. I would get different shocks instead of those like the Bilstein 5100 series a world of difference in shocks. But you can get buy with it.


As for differentials not knowing what you have now but I think its a 97 so only if it is a D35 do you really need to consider changing it. Chy 8.25 if its a 8.25 and the HPD30 your good to go. Gears for both are <$500 a set lunchbox lockers not much more and I paid a 4x4 shop $400 to install everything so under $1500 not $5000 for you. I just used better lockers in mine was all.