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LOW COG suspension setup tricks/tips (REVISED 9-24-12)

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Old May 19, 2014 | 05:04 PM
  #331  
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From: ks
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by Dan4governor
Okay so I actually read through all 33 pages of this thread, but I think I still have a question unanswered. What would be the best way to roll out these upgrades in pieces for us "budget builders?" Meaning if I was gonna do, say, 1 upgrade a month at a time, where is the best place to start the process, still leaving me with a daily driver, and maximizing the use of each upgrade part individually?
Based on what I've read, it seems like it should go like this:
3" lift
33" tires plus fender trimming
Bump stops
long travel shocks
Brake lines
Quick discos
Track bar
LCAs, either long arm or at least aftermarket short arm that allow for better flex w/o hitting shock mounts
After all these would start the heavier fabbing.

Does that sound about right? If anything seems out of order please let me know your justification.
Thanks
You got the gist of it. I would probably add longer brake lines right after the lift. Also, you may need to add a washer or two to your turn stops to limit the tires rubbing at full lock/near full lock.
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Old May 19, 2014 | 05:10 PM
  #332  
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Year: 1988
Engine: 4.0 RENIX
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I'm assuming gears and lockers will be somewhere in there?
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Old May 19, 2014 | 05:26 PM
  #333  
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From: Prescott, AZ
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Actually I already "regeared" when I swapped the rear for a d44, therefore I junk yarded a matching gear d30 for the front. D44 has limited slip, plan to lock front end diff later.

For steering, I haven't experienced rub, I have 3" backspace rims.
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Old May 19, 2014 | 05:29 PM
  #334  
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Year: 1996
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Originally Posted by straightsixjeep
I would probably add longer brake lines right after the lift.
That makes good sense
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 08:13 AM
  #335  
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From: Plymouth CT
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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3 inches on 35s.
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Old Aug 12, 2014 | 04:23 AM
  #336  
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From: North Salt Lake Utah
Year: 1994
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3 inch on shorts, adjustable track bar, quick discos, shackle box's relocated, welded sliders, ES9K 10 inch shocks, brake lines, 32's and stock everything else, very impressed with what it can do so far,
I want to put the shocks up into the body and 4 link the rear next

Last edited by SiRed91; Aug 19, 2014 at 01:16 AM.
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Old Sep 30, 2014 | 08:09 PM
  #337  
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 04:02 PM
  #338  
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 10:58 AM
  #339  
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 11:02 AM
  #340  
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Year: 1994
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Where it belongs.
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 02:21 PM
  #341  
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
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Ok I have only seen a couple of times and have been searching lately.. The stupid lip in the fender well. Did yall just beat yours flat, or cut it out?
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 02:44 PM
  #342  
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
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Make relief cuts in it then beat it over flat. Just take a cut off wheel to it, make a cut about every 6" and then beat it over to one side.
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 06:29 AM
  #343  
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thanks, exactly what I was thinking
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 10:04 AM
  #344  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
this is what 12" of travel looks like on short arms. not pretty. I had actually ripped the stem out of the shock body with this setup before I installed the limit straps

I love this picture. It actually is a good example in my opinion.

10" shocks I believe are a good choice on short arms. And if you have 10 in the rear then I doubt there is need for more.

With long arms or drop brackets.......maybe a bit more.
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 11:27 AM
  #345  
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3in in the rear. 2.5 for the front. 36 x 12.5 x 15.

I had 10" of travel on the rear. But with these 36's I am down to 8.5" travel after bumping. May have to do some inner fender well alterations to get my full travel back.

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