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locking hubs

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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 10:46 PM
  #16  
Gatchmo5710's Avatar
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From: st.george utah
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 4.0
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What trucks came with them thats easy to swap?????????????????

sorry for hijack
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 10:57 PM
  #17  
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From: Hesperia
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by freegdr
will do, been loking for years for that extra money never seem to find it lol
none of us ever will because we all own a jeep



for that much money you can get a waggy 44 and a lock right and gears
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 06:49 AM
  #18  
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From: Coeur d' Alene, Idaho
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
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Originally Posted by jfiedler
worth it??? for a 1000 bucks i can think of much better things worth it to do to the jeep.... would it be nice? yes. I much prefer manual locking hubs. But, it iiisss nice not to have to jump in and out of your vehicle to engage/disengage the hubs....
well i could get the kit for about $650....
and getting out to engage the hubs wouldn't bug me, I more concerned about unecessary wear on my front end and steering components.
and I don't want to put the time into swapping front axles when I'm already geared n locked....
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 07:12 AM
  #19  
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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Originally Posted by tannerp89
well i could get the kit for about $650....
and getting out to engage the hubs wouldn't bug me, I more concerned about unecessary wear on my front end and steering components.
and I don't want to put the time into swapping front axles when I'm already geared n locked....
650.00 where
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 07:14 AM
  #20  
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From: Coeur d' Alene, Idaho
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
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Originally Posted by freegdr
650.00 where
never you mind hehe

lol local 4x4 shop, know the owners, gettin' the homie hookup hopefully...

Last edited by tannerp89; Jan 18, 2011 at 07:17 AM.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 09:35 AM
  #21  
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From: Los Angeles, Calif.
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242
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I also like and prefer the manual hubs. But hooo… kits for the XJ are expensive!! Even at $650 I personally can’t justify that kind of money with all the other things wrong with my Jeep that are demanding money too. ;-)

Second option – the route I’ll probably go – is to swap to later model non-disconnect axle shafts, remove the vacuum actuator and replace it with a block-off plate. You still get the simplicity and reliability of a manual hub system, except the front driveline will be freewheeling when you drive. I’m sort of going on faith that the zero loading of the front end during normal driving activities will reduce wear to a negligible amount… $650 will buy a lot of replacement parts and those parts will only need replacing on an infrequent basis.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 12:25 PM
  #22  
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From: Fredericksburg VA
Model: Cherokee
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I'll be selling this kit pretty soon:

http://www.emsoffroad.com/store/inde...roducts_id=331

It's coming off of the 30 I acquired. Built in June 2010 and near mint.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 01:00 PM
  #23  
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Is that the only advantage; the gas mileage? I think its a bit annoying to have to get out and lock the hubs everytime you want to switch back and forth; especially considering some of you fully locked guys. I can see you guys switching back to 2wd for the turning radius then back again... I don't know.

Random question. My dad has a solid axle '82 Toyota pickup and was asking me the other day if he could keep the hubs locked and return to 2wd. This was over this little snow we had, and he didn't want to run 4wd down the clear roads. Is that okay to do at speed?
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 02:24 PM
  #24  
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From: Coeur d' Alene, Idaho
Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
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Originally Posted by Infidel_XJ
I'll be selling this kit pretty soon:

http://www.emsoffroad.com/store/inde...roducts_id=331

It's coming off of the 30 I acquired. Built in June 2010 and near mint.
How much for the kit?
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 02:28 PM
  #25  
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
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Mile Marker hubs are junk i had a set on a full size chevy. Only set ive had. They would not tighten up against the hub so they were loose fitting and the grease would sling out. I called them and they said thats how they were made. I wont get anymore but thats my exp...Ive always used Warn
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 03:42 PM
  #26  
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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Originally Posted by tannerp89
never you mind hehe

lol local 4x4 shop, know the owners, gettin' the homie hookup hopefully...
hey you dont play nice in the sand box lol
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 03:49 PM
  #27  
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From: Florence SC
Year: 1996
Engine: 4.0
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for the money you spend to save gas you'd be better off buying the gas. if you want your wheels to have power to both on the trails then you need a locker not hubs
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 04:03 PM
  #28  
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From: Cove, OR
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by s14unimog
I
Random question. My dad has a solid axle '82 Toyota pickup and was asking me the other day if he could keep the hubs locked and return to 2wd. This was over this little snow we had, and he didn't want to run 4wd down the clear roads. Is that okay to do at speed?
Yes, you can run the hubs turned in and have it in two wheel drive. It is okay to do at speed. ( not like 80-85 but 65-70 should be fine ) It will basically be the same as a Cherokee front without the disco axles. I used to run mine turned in for 3-4 miles, once or twice a week, just to keep the front differential lubed and take care of any moisture build up.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 04:22 PM
  #29  
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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Originally Posted by Irongrave
for the money you spend to save gas you'd be better off buying the gas. if you want your wheels to have power to both on the trails then you need a locker not hubs
the gas difference will not even be great enough i think to come int the picture, the reason i would run them if the money tree drops the cash in my wallet, is less unneeded wear and tear on front axle and it will get rid of the **** poor hub bearing assembly that came on our xj.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 08:38 PM
  #30  
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From: Coeur d' Alene, Idaho
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
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Originally Posted by freegdr
the gas difference will not even be great enough i think to come int the picture, the reason i would run them if the money tree drops the cash in my wallet, is less unneeded wear and tear on front axle and it will get rid of the **** poor hub bearing assembly that came on our xj.
That was my thought. I'd rather have serviceable bearings than the crappy hub assembly that I'm replacing all the time due to my auto locker.

Originally Posted by freegdr
hey you dont play nice in the sand box lol
hehehe
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