my xj is 89 2 door 4.0 8.8 in rear dana 30 in front 6.5 [2nd hand] rustys lift new u joints and ball joints new wheel bearings and steering stabilizer i aligned it had 33' tires balanced i noticed when i had some one turn the wheel that the trac bar was moving at the axle side so i replaced bushing and replaced stock bolt with a 10mm grade 8 bolt it dosent move now but am still getting a lot of shaking at 40 mpr could the control arm bushings be the prob what is confusing me is that the shaking is not in the steering it seems to be the drivers side some one suggested the front drive shaft is out of balance please help this was going to be my daily driver but cant sale my ranger till this is fixed thanks

 

Could be control arm bushings or tie rod ends.

 

the two reasons i say ca bushings are 1 when i installed the driver side uca to the body before mounting the axle it dropped and so did the passenger side lca like the bushing was not tight but the other two stayed rite where i bolted them in kinda hard to enplane and 2 when im sitting still and have my son turn the steering wheel back and forth they move about 1 to 1 1/2 inches ether way and jeep walks side ways but on the other hand the tire rods make sens as well because my steering is very sloppy this is my first non full leaf spring lift so kinda learning as i go

 

I would start with tie rod ends. Been there and never had the wobble after I replaced all the tie rods.

 

ya thats what im gona do because im ordering lang arms in a cpl of weeks so will do tie rod ends now and have bushing replaced then thanks for the advice

 

i would defenatly replace the lca bushings as well and upgrade the tierods and draglink to the grand cherokee its a bit stronger will hold up better to your 6 in with 33s also..

 

Adding a grand Cherokee drag link is definitely a good idea, although if your going to replace all the tie rod ends you should consider looking into an over the knuckle steering set up to correct your steering angles at 6" of lift

 

I am not positive but I'm pretty sure those are supposed to be grade 5 bolts. Grade 5 will stretch a bit and grade 8 will just shear and that would be horrifying to lose ALL steering while driving. i would suggest doing some research on that. Also pay close attention to the frame side too, they like to egg out the holes in the bracket and eat away at the bolt. All you would have to do is pull a bolt and see if there is a groove worn in it. My buddy recently had a problem with that and replaced the stock bracket with a double shear and it fixed a ton of tiny problems which equated to a huge difference in driveability. That is also where I believe I heard its supposed to be grade 5 but I am not sure so please do some research....stronger is not always better.

 

i have a rustys trac bar and drag link its bigger than the grands i think and the reason i went with the grade 8 bolt was i put stock grade bolts in twice and both times they where almost gnawed in half by the mount and yes it did go egg shaped on me then i talked to a buddy of mine who told me when he got his trac bar [after market ] he had to drill his mount out because the bushing had a larger hole in it than stock and gave him alot of wobble so i did the same and helped a little on mine i am swapping motors this weekend and ordered long arms that come with new johnny joints and bushings and advance auto sales the tire rod ends so in a week i will see if im just going to drive it off a cliff or not lol

 

If you suspect that it could be the front driveshaft just remove it and take it for a drive. The slip joint on mine is wobbly and after I removed the driveshaft the shakes went away. Time for a new driveshaft for me. Its very easy, only 4 bolts at each end.

 

ok did not know how safe it was because of how much lift i have