(Lifted cherokee) Need help with steering play, and some advice please
From my experience dropping the pitman arm a little bit won't hurt.. Yes its good to be parallel. But close works fine. And his problem of course is the angle. Putting severe stress on the tie rod ends. Even the new ones will wear out quickly if he does not change the angle.
Poly spacers will help the wear, until they wear out.
You are right, lowering it will help a lot. Hopefully he lowers it.
Tie rod ends look shot, replace them.
If you don't have a drop down pitman arm, get one. This will help a lot.
Also flip that stableizer around. If possible. As it is its working against you. Flip it around and it will counter the play. As in mounting it on the back side, not the front.
IF that does not work like you want it too. You need to do what Donnie K said. Upgrade. 8.5" of lift is a lot for stock steering.
Getting rid of the spacers will help. Unless you love it the way it is.
If you don't have a drop down pitman arm, get one. This will help a lot.
Also flip that stableizer around. If possible. As it is its working against you. Flip it around and it will counter the play. As in mounting it on the back side, not the front.
IF that does not work like you want it too. You need to do what Donnie K said. Upgrade. 8.5" of lift is a lot for stock steering.
Getting rid of the spacers will help. Unless you love it the way it is.
You cannot tell the condition of a TRE from this or any picture.
The drag link and track bar are paralell, so adding a DPA
Steering Stabilzers (dampeners) are valved 50/50. Unlike shock absorbers, they have the same resistance during extension and compression. Moving it from one-rod to the other will have no effect on anything at all.
Stock steering? Where do you see stock steering?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36
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From: CT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Lots-o-fail here.
You cannot tell the condition of a TRE from this or any picture.
The drag link and track bar are paralell, so adding a DPA
Steering Stabilzers (dampeners) are valved 50/50. Unlike shock absorbers, they have the same resistance during extension and compression. Moving it from one-rod to the other will have no effect on anything at all.
Stock steering? Where do you see stock steering?
You cannot tell the condition of a TRE from this or any picture.
The drag link and track bar are paralell, so adding a DPA
Steering Stabilzers (dampeners) are valved 50/50. Unlike shock absorbers, they have the same resistance during extension and compression. Moving it from one-rod to the other will have no effect on anything at all.
Stock steering? Where do you see stock steering?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: CT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I saw the video, same answer.
The video shows Tie-Rod roll and that does not mean the ends are bad or in need of replacement.
Yes you will need to get the correct length shocks for your rig once you remove the spacers/blocks.
I'm sure holycaveman meant well, he simply not quite on target.
The video shows Tie-Rod roll and that does not mean the ends are bad or in need of replacement.
Yes you will need to get the correct length shocks for your rig once you remove the spacers/blocks.
I'm sure holycaveman meant well, he simply not quite on target.
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From: Dayton OH
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I saw the video, same answer.
The video shows Tie-Rod roll and that does not mean the ends are bad or in need of replacement.
Yes you will need to get the correct length shocks for your rig once you remove the spacers/blocks.
I'm sure holycaveman meant well, he simply not quite on target.
The video shows Tie-Rod roll and that does not mean the ends are bad or in need of replacement.
Yes you will need to get the correct length shocks for your rig once you remove the spacers/blocks.
I'm sure holycaveman meant well, he simply not quite on target.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,173
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Ohio
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: CT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 43
Likes: 7
From: Eastern Wa
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
The best way to see if a tie rod is bad is to put your hand on the tie rod and with the tires on the ground have someone steer the steering wheel back and forth. You will feel play in the rod end between the end casing and the ball if its bad. Just because you can roll the end forward and back does not mean it is bad, the primary direction of movement is left and right. When checking this check all 4 ends for play, if you can feel wobble side to side you need to replace them.
I saw the video, same answer.
The video shows Tie-Rod roll and that does not mean the ends are bad or in need of replacement.
Yes you will need to get the correct length shocks for your rig once you remove the spacers/blocks.
I'm sure holycaveman meant well, he simply not quite on target.
The video shows Tie-Rod roll and that does not mean the ends are bad or in need of replacement.
Yes you will need to get the correct length shocks for your rig once you remove the spacers/blocks.
I'm sure holycaveman meant well, he simply not quite on target.
I am not going to start anything because quite frankly its useless on here.
I get paid to fix these kinds of problems. Monday through Friday. Now if you fellows would care to actually listen to what I am saying and look at what is going on here instead of just throwing out a "fail". The op may have a better chance at fixing this. Otherwise he will have to pay a shop to take care of it. And guess who will be fixing it then? That's right, me.
To be certain of your tie rods watch them while someone moves the wheel back and forth. Its the easiest way to tell. Make sure the wheel gets turned past the point of roll, so the wheels actually move.
Yes it looks like you will need shocks. But the best way to tell is to lower it. Then unbolt the bottom part of the shock. See where it is when the spring is compressed, and extended. Then measure the total distance. That will tell you where you need to be.
Also from watching the video again, it looks as though your pitman arm is already a drop down one. So unfortunately you can't do much there. But I would check to make sure.
Last edited by holycaveman; Sep 21, 2013 at 10:02 AM.
Lots-o-fail here.
You cannot tell the condition of a TRE from this or any picture.
The drag link and track bar are paralell, so adding a DPA
Steering Stabilzers (dampeners) are valved 50/50. Unlike shock absorbers, they have the same resistance during extension and compression. Moving it from one-rod to the other will have no effect on anything at all.
Stock steering? Where do you see stock steering?
You cannot tell the condition of a TRE from this or any picture.
The drag link and track bar are paralell, so adding a DPA
Steering Stabilzers (dampeners) are valved 50/50. Unlike shock absorbers, they have the same resistance during extension and compression. Moving it from one-rod to the other will have no effect on anything at all.
Stock steering? Where do you see stock steering?
Look at the steering dampener. Think about what is actually going on.
If he switches it like I said. It will help counter the problem.
Also look at his TRE. Both of them and tell me what is missing? Its good sign of wear.
Last edited by holycaveman; Sep 21, 2013 at 10:47 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,173
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
Sorry man. My advice was spot on. And if the op follows it his problem will be helped.
I am not going to start anything because quite frankly its useless on here.
I get paid to fix these kinds of problems. Monday through Friday. Now if you fellows would care to actually listen to what I am saying and look at what is going on here instead of just throwing out a "fail". The op may have a better chance at fixing this. Otherwise he will have to pay a shop to take care of it. And guess who will be fixing it then? That's right, me.
I am not going to start anything because quite frankly its useless on here.
I get paid to fix these kinds of problems. Monday through Friday. Now if you fellows would care to actually listen to what I am saying and look at what is going on here instead of just throwing out a "fail". The op may have a better chance at fixing this. Otherwise he will have to pay a shop to take care of it. And guess who will be fixing it then? That's right, me.










