Lift Questions
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Lift Questions
I just bought a 2000 XJ for my son (I currently own an 04 TJ) and am in love with this jeep. It is stock and the underside is solid with very little rust. Of course I am thinking of all the mods I want to do and have to live with my budget. I just installed a new headliner and am pretty sure I will put on a Dynomax Cat Back Exhaust before winter. The shocks are original and the leaf springs seem to sit a bit flat to me. most of the bushings seem to be in need of replacement. I plan to do a 3" lift in the spring and run 31x10.5x15 tires. This jeep will see some sand and snow but no major trails or off-roading aside from easy trails. I was surprised at how expensive lifts are for the XJ and with how little they come with. I am considering the 3" lift from ZONE with full leaf pack - I would add the extended front sway bar links, T-Case drop and new stabilizer. That should run me about $675. My RE front coil snapped on my TJ last summer and I put a ZONE kit on it and have been very happy with the ride and performance so far. I am going out weekly and spraying my rear leaf bolts and shock bolts as well as everything else with penetrating oil and hoping by the time I get to the lift they don't snap. So here are my questions:
This kit does not come with replacement control arms and I don't plan to install adjustable ones but I feel my bushings should be replaced - Opinions on the MOOG Control Arm Bushings (rubber) vs Energy Suspension (poly)? Since the kit does not come with this I could get to it this winter and have it done and out of the way.
The most this vehicle would tow is a small utility trailer - Opinions on ditching the rear sway bar or should I keep it and replace the bushings ?- I doubt I would need extended arms in the rear and again if I keep it I could replace the bushings now and have that done (or ditch it).
This kit has you re-drill and relocate the trackbar - I am not a big fan of this but I also don't see the need to invest in an adjustable - Opinions?
Any other considerations or advice is welcome....
Thanks
This kit does not come with replacement control arms and I don't plan to install adjustable ones but I feel my bushings should be replaced - Opinions on the MOOG Control Arm Bushings (rubber) vs Energy Suspension (poly)? Since the kit does not come with this I could get to it this winter and have it done and out of the way.
The most this vehicle would tow is a small utility trailer - Opinions on ditching the rear sway bar or should I keep it and replace the bushings ?- I doubt I would need extended arms in the rear and again if I keep it I could replace the bushings now and have that done (or ditch it).
This kit has you re-drill and relocate the trackbar - I am not a big fan of this but I also don't see the need to invest in an adjustable - Opinions?
Any other considerations or advice is welcome....
Thanks
#2
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Northern New Mexico
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I just bought a 2000 XJ for my son (I currently own an 04 TJ) and am in love with this jeep. It is stock and the underside is solid with very little rust. Of course I am thinking of all the mods I want to do and have to live with my budget. I just installed a new headliner and am pretty sure I will put on a Dynomax Cat Back Exhaust before winter. The shocks are original and the leaf springs seem to sit a bit flat to me. most of the bushings seem to be in need of replacement. I plan to do a 3" lift in the spring and run 31x10.5x15 tires. This jeep will see some sand and snow but no major trails or off-roading aside from easy trails. I was surprised at how expensive lifts are for the XJ and with how little they come with. I am considering the 3" lift from ZONE with full leaf pack - I would add the extended front sway bar links, T-Case drop and new stabilizer. That should run me about $675. My RE front coil snapped on my TJ last summer and I put a ZONE kit on it and have been very happy with the ride and performance so far. I am going out weekly and spraying my rear leaf bolts and shock bolts as well as everything else with penetrating oil and hoping by the time I get to the lift they don't snap. So here are my questions:
This kit does not come with replacement control arms and I don't plan to install adjustable ones but I feel my bushings should be replaced - Opinions on the MOOG Control Arm Bushings (rubber) vs Energy Suspension (poly)? Since the kit does not come with this I could get to it this winter and have it done and out of the way.
The most this vehicle would tow is a small utility trailer - Opinions on ditching the rear sway bar or should I keep it and replace the bushings ?- I doubt I would need extended arms in the rear and again if I keep it I could replace the bushings now and have that done (or ditch it).
This kit has you re-drill and relocate the trackbar - I am not a big fan of this but I also don't see the need to invest in an adjustable - Opinions?
Any other considerations or advice is welcome....
Thanks
This kit does not come with replacement control arms and I don't plan to install adjustable ones but I feel my bushings should be replaced - Opinions on the MOOG Control Arm Bushings (rubber) vs Energy Suspension (poly)? Since the kit does not come with this I could get to it this winter and have it done and out of the way.
The most this vehicle would tow is a small utility trailer - Opinions on ditching the rear sway bar or should I keep it and replace the bushings ?- I doubt I would need extended arms in the rear and again if I keep it I could replace the bushings now and have that done (or ditch it).
This kit has you re-drill and relocate the trackbar - I am not a big fan of this but I also don't see the need to invest in an adjustable - Opinions?
Any other considerations or advice is welcome....
Thanks
Ditch the sway bar. You should invest in an adjustable one. Drilling is a terrible idea.
Overall you have a good plan. I just encourage you to look into the cracked head issue or look for signs of replacement
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Prior to me the vehicle was owned by a Chrysler Technician who had within the past 7000 miles replaced the camshaft, timing chain/gears, Head, lifters and pushrods and water pump. I feel pretty good that the bad stuff is behind me.
#4
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Northern New Mexico
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Sweet. As far as your plan, what if your son wants to have a bigger lift in the future? Regardless, I would avoid the transfer case drop and also get an adjustable track bar
#5
CF Veteran
Personally, I would invest in control arms. I'm at 3.5" with stock arms, and my caster is off quite a bit. I have a 3 link long arm going in shortly! Plan was to go long arms the entire time, so I've just been dealing with it for the last year and a half.
Just go with the adjustable track bar. Yes it's an extra expense, but they're stronger than stock, and you don't have to drill anything.
Rear sway bar? I don't tow anything so I can't recommend one way or the other.
Lastly, at 3" you may or may not need to go with a Tcase drop or SYE (slip yoke eliminator). Lift it, drive it, see how it feels, and go from there. SYE's are the real fix for post lift driveline vibes. A Tcase drop will wear out your motor mounts faster.
Just go with the adjustable track bar. Yes it's an extra expense, but they're stronger than stock, and you don't have to drill anything.
Rear sway bar? I don't tow anything so I can't recommend one way or the other.
Lastly, at 3" you may or may not need to go with a Tcase drop or SYE (slip yoke eliminator). Lift it, drive it, see how it feels, and go from there. SYE's are the real fix for post lift driveline vibes. A Tcase drop will wear out your motor mounts faster.
#6
Senior Member
Personally, I would invest in control arms. I'm at 3.5" with stock arms, and my caster is off quite a bit. I have a 3 link long arm going in shortly! Plan was to go long arms the entire time, so I've just been dealing with it for the last year and a half.
Just go with the adjustable track bar. Yes it's an extra expense, but they're stronger than stock, and you don't have to drill anything.
Rear sway bar? I don't tow anything so I can't recommend one way or the other.
Lastly, at 3" you may or may not need to go with a Tcase drop or SYE (slip yoke eliminator). Lift it, drive it, see how it feels, and go from there. SYE's are the real fix for post lift driveline vibes. A Tcase drop will wear out your motor mounts faster.
Just go with the adjustable track bar. Yes it's an extra expense, but they're stronger than stock, and you don't have to drill anything.
Rear sway bar? I don't tow anything so I can't recommend one way or the other.
Lastly, at 3" you may or may not need to go with a Tcase drop or SYE (slip yoke eliminator). Lift it, drive it, see how it feels, and go from there. SYE's are the real fix for post lift driveline vibes. A Tcase drop will wear out your motor mounts faster.
#7
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Louisville,KY
Posts: 8,014
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
14 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Look at this lift http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-su...-pack-kit.html
Trackbar http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10215.html and you don't need a sye kit most of the time around 5 inches of lift and never use a t case drop.
Trackbar http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10215.html and you don't need a sye kit most of the time around 5 inches of lift and never use a t case drop.