junkyard lift questions..
03-04-2011, 01:42 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Daytona Beach, Fl
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
junkyard lift questions..
Alright, Im going to end up finally doing my junkyard lift. 
Im going to get s10 leaf springs for a bastard pack, than try to find some thunderbird front coils.Now this is where my questions start.
What do I need to do to use the thunderbird coils??
I plan on using f350 swaybar links for the front. I'll also be using shocks out of a f150. What else would I need for this lift? I got a full shop at my disposal with a welder if that becomes necessary. Thanks. Suggestions are very appreciated.
Im going to get s10 leaf springs for a bastard pack, than try to find some thunderbird front coils.Now this is where my questions start.What do I need to do to use the thunderbird coils??
I plan on using f350 swaybar links for the front. I'll also be using shocks out of a f150. What else would I need for this lift? I got a full shop at my disposal with a welder if that becomes necessary. Thanks. Suggestions are very appreciated.
03-04-2011, 07:20 AM
#4
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
up front, there so far hasn't really been a definitive answer to which thunderbird coils to use, and what supposedly need to be done to them. only hearsay. (bla bla my buddy's uncle's friend said he used them bla bla bla)
the older early 80's F150 coils give ~4" of lift but are crazy-stiff (too-high spring rate, no flex)
and the ZJ V8 coils are the same free-length as stock XJ coils but have a higher spring rate so they compress much less and IMO ride better since the 4.0L weighs within 50lbs of the V8
out back, it is my experience that a mix-n-match from a 5-leaf durango pack can be a better lift than alot of S10 mixes i have tried (especially an old 80's S10) it's just that S10's are gonna be way more common at the JY.
no need to go crazy with the brake lines just yet, they can work up to ~3in of lift no sweat.
also on the shocks, there will be much better/easier options, the ZJ V8 shocks are a good match up front for ~3" and JK rubicon shocks out back. or if you remove your rear sway bar and make rear bar pin eliminators from it, your XJ shocks will still be fine.
the older early 80's F150 coils give ~4" of lift but are crazy-stiff (too-high spring rate, no flex)
and the ZJ V8 coils are the same free-length as stock XJ coils but have a higher spring rate so they compress much less and IMO ride better since the 4.0L weighs within 50lbs of the V8
out back, it is my experience that a mix-n-match from a 5-leaf durango pack can be a better lift than alot of S10 mixes i have tried (especially an old 80's S10) it's just that S10's are gonna be way more common at the JY.
no need to go crazy with the brake lines just yet, they can work up to ~3in of lift no sweat.
also on the shocks, there will be much better/easier options, the ZJ V8 shocks are a good match up front for ~3" and JK rubicon shocks out back. or if you remove your rear sway bar and make rear bar pin eliminators from it, your XJ shocks will still be fine.
03-04-2011, 12:50 PM
#5
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Missouri
Posts: 2,251
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
XJ country springs are 0.75" to 1" above stock
ZJ front v8 springs are +1"
ZJ Country front v8 springs are +2"
70s f150 front coils are stiff but are +2"
another option for the front is this (I built a pair of 1.75" spacers for only $8)
http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical...oilSpacers.htm
as for the rears
use s10 rear springs and build a bastard pack...
also consider a $30 shackle set from superior automovite, can be purchased at autozone, o'reillys, and advance auto (they are adjustable for 1.6" and 2.6" lift)
ZJ front v8 springs are +1"
ZJ Country front v8 springs are +2"
70s f150 front coils are stiff but are +2"
another option for the front is this (I built a pair of 1.75" spacers for only $8)
http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical...oilSpacers.htm
as for the rears
use s10 rear springs and build a bastard pack...
also consider a $30 shackle set from superior automovite, can be purchased at autozone, o'reillys, and advance auto (they are adjustable for 1.6" and 2.6" lift)
03-04-2011, 06:55 PM
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Daytona Beach, Fl
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I already know about the bastard pack so I dont really need any more info on that..
on the front I still want some spring so the f150 coils isn't an option.
the zj springs are a little too short. I would like about 3" or 4" up front.
I think Ill try the thunderbird coils, and let everyone know. What would I need as far as steering components and LCA's?
on the front I still want some spring so the f150 coils isn't an option.
the zj springs are a little too short. I would like about 3" or 4" up front.
I think Ill try the thunderbird coils, and let everyone know. What would I need as far as steering components and LCA's?
03-04-2011, 07:07 PM
#7
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Hesperia Ca
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i6 4.0
I got a used pair of 4" lift front coils off a TJ and got 3" and late 80's rear sway bar links work great for front XJ with 3"-4" lift Brake lines off a CJ napa has them new for $16.00 a pice for the front and 14.00 for rear I think. SYE?? I dont have yet but its on the list
Trending Topics
03-04-2011, 08:39 PM
#8
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
russian, you are gonna need a plate of some sort that sits between the coil and the spring isolator.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68842
about halfway down the first page is a picture of what you would need to make.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68842
about halfway down the first page is a picture of what you would need to make.
03-04-2011, 09:08 PM
#9
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: wilkes barre PA.
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 cylinder
Here is something you might want to check out.
http://pennythejeep.wordpress.com/wr...strut-springs/
http://pennythejeep.wordpress.com/wr...strut-springs/
03-05-2011, 11:36 AM
#10
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Daytona Beach, Fl
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
russian, you are gonna need a plate of some sort that sits between the coil and the spring isolator.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68842
about halfway down the first page is a picture of what you would need to make.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68842
about halfway down the first page is a picture of what you would need to make.
Here is something you might want to check out.
http://pennythejeep.wordpress.com/wr...strut-springs/
http://pennythejeep.wordpress.com/wr...strut-springs/
THANK YOU BOTH!!!!! you guys are gods to me right now! lol
03-05-2011, 11:58 AM
#11
Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Lapeer county, MI
Posts: 186
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
i did the thunderbird coils you will need the strut plate for the top to fit, and j bolts to hold the spring in the strut plate if your gonna flex it alot. the plate with need to be drilled out to a bit over 2.5 inches for the center hole. my springs came of a 94 v6. stiff ride but for the price i am not complaining.
03-05-2011, 01:21 PM
#12
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Missouri
Posts: 2,251
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
i did the thunderbird coils you will need the strut plate for the top to fit, and j bolts to hold the spring in the strut plate if your gonna flex it alot. the plate with need to be drilled out to a bit over 2.5 inches for the center hole. my springs came of a 94 v6. stiff ride but for the price i am not complaining.
03-05-2011, 03:20 PM
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: middle of effin no where, WA
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
[QUOTE=onespeedpaul;892432]
no need to go crazy with the brake lines just yet, they can work up to ~3in of lift no sweat.
I call bs. stock xj at full stuff n' droop will stress the stock break lines. so with 3" lift, guess what.... POP! then
if you lift it, get longer breaklines. no sence in saving $60 if it's gunna cause you to get trailered home cause you've got no breaks. (hell you'll probably have to give the $$ to your buddy for gas for trailering you home). do yourself and your buddies a favor, and just get the breaklines, you'll need em.
no need to go crazy with the brake lines just yet, they can work up to ~3in of lift no sweat.
I call bs. stock xj at full stuff n' droop will stress the stock break lines. so with 3" lift, guess what.... POP! then
if you lift it, get longer breaklines. no sence in saving $60 if it's gunna cause you to get trailered home cause you've got no breaks. (hell you'll probably have to give the $$ to your buddy for gas for trailering you home). do yourself and your buddies a favor, and just get the breaklines, you'll need em.
03-05-2011, 03:32 PM
#14
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Indianola IOWA
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
coil springs are cheap on ebay. ranging from $110 to $140 for almost any height. thats shipped price
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-...Q5fAccessories
03-05-2011, 05:54 PM
#15
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Missouri
Posts: 2,251
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
I call bs. stock xj at full stuff n' droop will stress the stock break lines. so with 3" lift, guess what.... POP! then if you lift it, get longer breaklines. no sence in saving $60 if it's gunna cause you to get trailered home cause you've got no breaks. (hell you'll probably have to give the $$ to your buddy for gas for trailering you home). do yourself and your buddies a favor, and just get the breaklines, you'll need em.
if you lift it, get longer breaklines. no sence in saving $60 if it's gunna cause you to get trailered home cause you've got no breaks. (hell you'll probably have to give the $$ to your buddy for gas for trailering you home). do yourself and your buddies a favor, and just get the breaklines, you'll need em.the stock lower control arms only allow for a around 5" or 6" max down travel before they max out...
at 3" lift they have even less down travel before they smack the axle mounts...
honestly if the hard lines are moved down they are more than safe...
that being said I would really recommend getting new ones... you have no clue how old the old ones are, and if you are going to replace them you might as well get some longer lines anyway