Yea, it looks great for brakes, tires/wheels, oil changes, lower body work, gas tank work, and suspension work... still pretty useful even if it does cover the trans/t-case.

 

If you use cinder blocks, I hope you have good health and life insurance. VERY bad idea to use cinder blocks, actually its down right dumb..........just sayin.

 

Harbor freight 12 ton jack stands

 

Iv got a set of 6 ton stands and the work great 3 tons r way to short

 

I have lots of clearance to crawl under and a service pit (which is really too deep for my jeep).

The lift was done by the previous owner and I want to make some suspension changes so I can't just put my current stands under the axle.

 

What's wrong with Harbour Freight stands? I've been using a hydraulic motorcycle lift from them for about 10 years. Their stands are just fine

 

I was thinking the same thing. For body work it would be great.

 

The minimum height for those is 19.5" which I am afraid would limit their usefulness.

Plus they cost 2x ($90 vs 46).

 

I take my tires off and lower axles onto jack stands on lowest setting then jack body up off of axles using rail road ties under high reach floor jack works perfect .sounds like a higher reaching floor jacks needed .

 

If you go online and get the 20% off coupon it makes them a good deal

 

I sort-of disagree. Cinder blocks have a weak and strong axis. Assuming a concrete compressive strength of 1000 psi (conservative) and the cross sectional area of the cinder block, one cinder block could support up to 16 tons. Would I ever load one close to that? NO! But can you safely support a vehicle with it oriented properly and with the load equally distributed? I think so. Don't get me wrong, I'll always go for the jack stands first but if done thoughtfully and carefully, a cinder block IMO is strong enough to support a vehicle.

 

I've had them crumble and drop cars. (Chevy beretta, not that heavy of a car). Your weight supporting ideas are of an evenly distributed load... not of a 4 legged jack stand on top of a cinder block. They do break. Hell, you can smack one with a small hammer and crumble it. or pick it up and drop it on the ground.

 

That why I said "with it oriented properly and with the load equally distributed". It's not that difficult to put a pair of 2x6's between the blocks and a jack stand...And the correct orientation is with the holes pointed up, that's the strong axis, so you need a piece of wood or something on top anyway. The flat sides are the weakest part.

 

There's just too many safer alternatives that are just as cost efficient and easily obtainable... why risk it.

 

Exactly cant drive when your being scraped up with a spatula