IRO SYE hack n tap questionS
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 52
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From: Quad Cities
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have a 98 XJ limited. Auto, 242 t-case, Chrysler rear. I am running a 4.5 inch rough country lift with AAL and angled lift blocks. I also have the T-case drop. I'm looking to purchase the IRO hack n tap SYE and junkyard XJ front driveshaft since I'm on a budget. I have some questions regarding this kit.
1) I want to run a used front XJ or ZJ driveshaft with this kit. Which one will be better, XJ or ZJ? What all needs to be done to the driveshaft before it can be installed?
2) I assume that I will need to swap out the angled lift blocks for some shims. How do I compensate for the loss of lift when removing the blocks and adding shims or will the blocks work?
3) Does the stock seal get used for this kit after adding the new yoke?
1) I want to run a used front XJ or ZJ driveshaft with this kit. Which one will be better, XJ or ZJ? What all needs to be done to the driveshaft before it can be installed?
2) I assume that I will need to swap out the angled lift blocks for some shims. How do I compensate for the loss of lift when removing the blocks and adding shims or will the blocks work?
3) Does the stock seal get used for this kit after adding the new yoke?
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 774
Likes: 7
From: Lowell, MI
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The best route is to use an XJ front shaft so all you have to have is one spare that fits both front and rear. No mods are necessary to the shaft at all with the IRO kit
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 52
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From: Quad Cities
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I already have lift shackles on it (not adjustable). 1 inch I believe. What about just getting new leaf packs and still ditching the blocks? And if I go this route, what size lift springs should I get? 3 inch or 4 inch lift springs?
Originally Posted by Bigred95
I already have lift shackles on it (not adjustable). 1 inch I believe. What about just getting new leaf packs and still ditching the blocks? And if I go this route, what size lift springs should I get? 3 inch or 4 inch lift springs?
Resident Zombie Hunter
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,542
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From: Virginia
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
When I bought my hank n tap I decided it was more cost effective to just buy the shaft from IRO, by the time I could go buy another one, clean it up and paint it, and put a new joint in it, it wasn't worth the headache. This might just be in my area tho where everything is rusty, the junkyards aren't open weekends (so I'd have to get outta work) and they are WAY over priced. Just make sure it's more cost effective for you to do all that than it is just to order one from them.
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CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,700
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From: S.Jersey
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
and yes better flex with 3" leafs and a shackle kit. as apposed to an all out 4.5 leafpack lift.Rc's 4.5" packs are having issues with being to short. hence, poepls shackle angles are sitting @ 90* instead of 45*.
i just installed my Rc 3" packs with 1.5" shackle kit and my shackle angle is perfect. so the rc 3" packs are fine.
From what I understand Jason aka Grimmus from RC is aware of the 4.5" pack issues and the are supposed to be correcting this. Just ask him if you plan on doing the 4.5 packs.
Resident Zombie Hunter
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,542
Likes: 2
From: Virginia
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Shoot I would have been happy if .mine were at 90* Mine iwere forward facing until a little over a year after install. they've finally gone 90* after almost 1.5 year's. And it is mainly their 4.5" packs but I'd still go with Rubicon Express. You'll get much better quality and ride quality with them.
Last edited by Red82; Dec 9, 2012 at 10:56 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,700
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From: S.Jersey
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yeah they don't call it rough country for nothing.
mine are still breaking in, but it does ride bouncy. its ok. i kind of like it. its is a lifted cherokee after all.
If i had it to do it all over again i would go with the RE packs too.
mine are still breaking in, but it does ride bouncy. its ok. i kind of like it. its is a lifted cherokee after all.
If i had it to do it all over again i would go with the RE packs too.
I was gonna order the IRO kit but decided Im goin with the Rugged ridge instead. I need the drill and tap kit and would get the drill jig to make use it was square. All that and it comes to the same price as the rugged ridge, and the IRO seems like more work.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 504
Likes: 3
From: Forest Grove, OR
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6, 4.ol
I have the IRO hack n tap, mine turned out well but they are very easy to mess up if you dont take your time and do it correctly. I actually removed the t case when I did it so I could have the most comfortable working stance. Make sure you drill and tap the hole straight =P. I used a WJ front drivline, maybe a zj but I think it was a wj. The grand cherokee front shafts are longer then the front xj shaft. I have a manual tranny so I needed the longer shaft. I still had to have it rebuilt and lengthened tho..




