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Injector swap, now having tons of problems, please help!

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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 06:26 PM
  #31  
sik_xj's Avatar
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They all seemed to be related, the problems that is.
I never had an issue like this before replacing the injectors. Other than a hard start which I suspected and number 3 seemed to be leaky when I pulled the rail off.
The very first time I started the jeep after putting the new injectors in number one was dripping from the rail and it turned out to be a gasket and I put a new gasket in. It fired right up and had no issues.
I put a new gasket in and then thats when I appeared to have issues. I don't know I am a loss.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 11:01 PM
  #32  
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The voltage/gauge issue sounds like a bad battery/alternator. My altenoator was just starting to go out, but overcharged my battery. new battery=$115, alternator rebuild=$57.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 11:09 PM
  #33  
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Please correct me if I'm wrong but this sounds eerily similar to a bad cps no?
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 11:35 PM
  #34  
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It sounds like what happened in my old S10, I swapped motors and didn't cover my fuel lines so it ran fine when I wasn't kicking it's rear end, but when I dropped the hammer, it would accelerate normally until it got ~3000 RPM or so, it was blocked fuel lines, that & my fuel pump that I replaced the factory one with wasn't strong enough. Try getting an air compressor, disconnecting the lines at both ends, and blowing them out, fuel will go everywhere yes, but with any trash that could be in there too, just a thought, good luck
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 12:35 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by carlover77
The voltage/gauge issue sounds like a bad battery/alternator. My altenoator was just starting to go out, but overcharged my battery. new battery=$115, alternator rebuild=$57.
Yeah I think they are somehow linked though.
It's a brand new delco battery and a brand new alternator. Well within the last few months.
I am going to pull the alternator to get it tested it's still under warranty.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 12:36 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by JRT1393
It sounds like what happened in my old S10, I swapped motors and didn't cover my fuel lines so it ran fine when I wasn't kicking it's rear end, but when I dropped the hammer, it would accelerate normally until it got ~3000 RPM or so, it was blocked fuel lines, that & my fuel pump that I replaced the factory one with wasn't strong enough. Try getting an air compressor, disconnecting the lines at both ends, and blowing them out, fuel will go everywhere yes, but with any trash that could be in there too, just a thought, good luck
Thanks I appreciate the tip.
If I end up getting a new fuel pump I'll clear the lines
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 12:41 AM
  #37  
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Every time i have had wierd electrical issues, I chased down all kinds of ideas and in the end it was the battery, battery connections or ground. How old is your battery? They don't last forever.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 12:58 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by CobraMarty
Every time i have had wierd electrical issues, I chased down all kinds of ideas and in the end it was the battery, battery connections or ground. How old is your battery? They don't last forever.
Brand new delco battery that was replaced with the alternator.
Brand new terminals on the lines and I went over the grounds when I did that.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 01:19 AM
  #39  
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Wierd electrical gremlins suck. Good luck.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 02:14 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by donkeypunch
Please correct me if I'm wrong but this sounds eerily similar to a bad cps no?
I had similar suspicions, but due simply to the fact that this all happend after I put new injectors in and now that I am having some voltage problems I sort of put the cps on the back burner for now
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 02:15 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by CobraMarty
Wierd electrical gremlins suck. Good luck.
No kidding haha thanks for the support
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 12:46 PM
  #42  
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I am going to put the old injectors back in and see what happens I'll report back.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 03:21 PM
  #43  
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Alright so old injectors are back in and it's running like it was before however there are some issues that have not been cleared.
When I started it back up after putting the old injectors back in there was a check engine light. Pulled the codes and they were the same codes as before except now it's saying that the voltage on the tps is high and low. I think that is tied into my issue with my alternator/volt gauge. It's still saying that the battery is at 12 volts, I'm not losing any charge but I am not gaining any charge and after x amount of time running it drops to 0 and my check gauge light comes on. I can turn the jeep off and right back on and it goes back to normal.
Would the cps cause this voltage issue?
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