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Inexpensive 8 piece 6 LED underbody rock lights called B -light from Extang

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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 07:08 PM
  #16  
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From: barnesville pa 18214
Year: 1996 1996 1997
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Engine: 4.0L 5.2L
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Originally Posted by coloradoboy
Any progress?
a tease is up
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 08:58 PM
  #17  
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From: Castle Rock
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 high output
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Originally Posted by gobbs_stopper

a tease is up
So stocked to see this all completed
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 11:57 AM
  #18  
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From: barnesville pa 18214
Year: 1996 1996 1997
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Originally Posted by coloradoboy
So stocked to see this all completed

me too
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 09:33 PM
  #19  
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From: barnesville pa 18214
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Excited to get this done. I will finish after i get my floor fixed
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 08:25 AM
  #20  
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Year: 1987
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Thanks for replying. I need to clean my entire underside before doing this, or any of the other work I need to do.

They look great so far!
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 09:54 AM
  #21  
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From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
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I was looking at the L.E.D strips on ebay, 16foot strip the can be cut every 3 inches to length for $16 shipped.

Im going to do similar but run stips all the way down the sides, under frony bumper and along wheel wells. I figure after buying wires and switches mybprice will be about the same.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 05:28 PM
  #22  
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From: Longview, TX
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
I was looking at the L.E.D strips on ebay, 16foot strip the can be cut every 3 inches to length for $16 shipped.

Im going to do similar but run stips all the way down the sides, under frony bumper and along wheel wells. I figure after buying wires and switches mybprice will be about the same.
I have 3 rolls of those. Put them in the cargo area on a switch so I can see what the hell I'm doing since my stupid cargo light only comes on with a door open. They are ridiculously bright! Make sure you get the waterproof SMD 50 50. I'll be putting the rest in the wheel wells and front bumper for rock lights at some point. Just need a fail safe way to attach them.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 06:48 PM
  #23  
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From: Glendale,Az
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Originally Posted by 98XJ40K

I have 3 rolls of those. Put them in the cargo area on a switch so I can see what the hell I'm doing since my stupid cargo light only comes on with a door open. They are ridiculously bright! Make sure you get the waterproof SMD 50 50. I'll be putting the rest in the wheel wells and front bumper for rock lights at some point. Just need a fail safe way to attach them.
Thats good to hear, i was wondering how bright they would be. My rear hatch as well does not turn on my light so i plan on doing something similar. I plan on running stips on the outside on the unibody rails to see the ground under the doors and fenders and also running them on the inside pointing them towards the driveline so if i need to do repairs i will be able to see perfectly.

When you wired yours did you run fuses or relays? Iv read they hardly pull any power at all when on.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 07:07 PM
  #24  
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From: Longview, TX
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Ran a fused wire between the power and the switch. Something like a 10 amp fuse since the switch could handle it. But you are right, the draw is minimal compared to incandescent lighting.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 07:48 PM
  #25  
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From: Glendale,Az
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Originally Posted by 98XJ40K
Ran a fused wire between the power and the switch. Something like a 10 amp fuse since the switch could handle it. But you are right, the draw is minimal compared to incandescent lighting.
What is the 5050 mean when deciding the lights? I want the brightest white i can get. not interested in a warm white or yellowish. looking for thats super bright white.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 08:03 PM
  #26  
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From: Onancock, VA
Year: 1990
Model: Wagoneer
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Very cool, night wheeling is always more fun and there's no such thing as too much light.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 08:31 PM
  #27  
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From: Longview, TX
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206

What is the 5050 mean when deciding the lights? I want the brightest white i can get. not interested in a warm white or yellowish. looking for thats super bright white.
The 5050 refers to the size/output of the LED IIRC. Someone correct me if I am wrong. The other popular one is something like 3232 or 3030... I believe it is a smaller or slightly dimmer LED.
the other thing to look at is the number of LEDs per meter. Some will be 30 others 60. The more there are, the more concentrated/brighter the light.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 08:40 PM
  #28  
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From: Glendale,Az
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Originally Posted by 98XJ40K

The 5050 refers to the size/output of the LED IIRC. Someone correct me if I am wrong. The other popular one is something like 3232 or 3030... I believe it is a smaller or slightly dimmer LED.
the other thing to look at is the number of LEDs per meter. Some will be 30 others 60. The more there are, the more concentrated/brighter the light.

Oh ok thanks. I planned on running the 60 led per meter ones. I will look into the 5050 style. Do you have any pics of how you placed them in the rear of the vehicle?
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 08:44 PM
  #29  
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From: Longview, TX
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206

Oh ok thanks. I planned on running the 60 led per meter ones. I will look into the 5050 style. Do you have any pics of how you placed them in the rear of the vehicle?
I don't have any on my phone... I'll try to get some later. I basically ran them along the top edge of the plastic above the hatch. The adhesive sucks so I had to use some super glue. Holds pretty good now.
I had to remove a rear side panel to mount my fire extinguisher and somehow cut the light strip. Not a big deal to re-solder the piece back on... but a pain nonetheless.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 09:08 PM
  #30  
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From: Falls Church, VA
Year: 2000
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Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by 98XJ40K
I have 3 rolls of those. Put them in the cargo area on a switch so I can see what the hell I'm doing since my stupid cargo light only comes on with a door open.
Don't you have to push the light on the ceiling in the back to turn it on?
That's what I do
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