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so im looking for the best way to fix it nowadays most threads i find are old
whats the OFGS SBS plates kit, is it still around
theres the rustys frame repair kit, the instuctions are confuseing, but im thinking both sides get plateing weled to it also theres sleeves that may be welded also and a solid tube that is welded, the steering box spacers you weld your self
the c-roc it can be bolt on or weld, im not sure what to weld or know how the sleeves work, maybe weld the sleeves to the frame then bolting the plates on they wont slide around
i dont want to modify my arb bumper so i would have to cut the outer plate or buy a inner spacer and make the outer one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-MJ-Heavy-Duty-Inner-Steering-Box-Spacer-Plate-Stiffener/321530323606?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D4080bd661c9d459aa318ac6b9849f829%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D20131003132420%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D201132294173&rt=nc
some iner spacers have a large hole, tow hook hole? i dont have hooks and not sure where it ends up i could cut if needed ,the other is this one
When mine ripped near the trac bar I welded the tear, grinder it down and got some 1/8 flat stock to weld on. I'm going to order some 3/16 off eBay and plate that whole area in the near future when worm slows down. If you have the ability to weld I would recommend going this route.
you can weld? go pick up some 1/8" and get freaky with that thing. it's the cheapest way. if you're not running a track bar brace you definitely need one. after plating up your frame start looking into hydro assist (it's a lot cheaper and easier than it sounds)
i need tips on a welder i only have flux core 90 amp, will a 130 amp 110 mig work , eastwood has one onsale for 200 how much would a regulator and gas bottle cost?
would this hobart be better
that eastwood seems like a decent little welder for the do it yourself hobbyist. but if you could afford better, than get the best welder you can afford.
as for the bottles, you typically rent those, the start fee is usually upwards of 200 bux, then just simply exchange empty bottle for a full one.
when you want to close your rental contract, return the bottle and get your deposit back.
you can also buy a bottle for about the same price from a supply shop and pay for refill.
as for your frame kit, check with eric at staangs fab. he makes a kit specifically for this problem, it's a great setup, i have it on my big blue xj.
he is very reasonably priced.
thanks i may rent a 110 mig
i was gonna order the c-roc but i cant find the shopping cart on there,
I thought i
could cut and weld it to my bumper mount, i have to be able to remove the bumper to get to the winch!
so it would need to be bolt on and im not sure how those sleeves work,some spot welds to grind off for bumper removal is ok
im not sure if fish eye welding a plate 'rustys' or bolt on allowing the unibody flex would be better
i seen some one stich weld a plate on then it cracked between the plate and track bar mount.
So if i weld the crack it will weld the 2 sheets together will this cause unibody flex problems? Also anything wrong with welding the layers together on the bottom, maybe stich across the whole length of it on the drivers side?
also will i need to remove the steering box or pitman arm
it maybe cracked worse some where else too, i can here a pop when turning and i checked the ball joints
Last edited by riderjay253; 12-30-2014 at 07:06 PM.
Your 90 amp mig could easily weld that crack with a bottle of 75/25 and some .024 or .030 wire. No need to rent a bigger welder. Make sure the steel is clean, really ****ing clean, turn the gas up to about 25-30ish on the regulator, max that little welder out and burn it home.
i cant find nothing on staangs web site also there in canada
i found more cracks today closer to the track bar ill get pics later
i cant understand the sleeves or why you would want them because then only the inside sheet of the frame is supporting the box
ill explain normally the bolt is squeezing the box to the inner sheet from the outer one !
To install the sleeve you only drill the outer sheet, then insert the sleeve and it sits against the inner sheet inside, then when the bolt is installed it pulls the box to the inner sheet and the sleeve against the sheet also from the inside. So only the thickness of the sleeve is holding to the weak inside frame sheeting, so its not putting pressure on the outer plate anymore, the outer plate is then bolted at the bumper and through the tow hook hole towards the track bar mount
to hold it on
im not sure if the sleeve sits behind the outer reinforcement plate or goes threw it ? i did see a homemade plated job and the sleeves where sticking out abit and not welded.
if the sleeve was trimmed a bit short it would pull the outer plate in , but then wouldn't have a purpose, it would be lose and able to slide somewhat
Last edited by riderjay253; 12-31-2014 at 07:21 AM.
12-30-2014, 06:01 AM
i got the cracked frame issue
