I am stuck on 2" or 3"
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Hendersonville, NC
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I just received my 2" rough country spacers and AAL's. I hope to get them on this weekend, but doubt I will get an extra hand until later in the week. I can do the rear solo, but would like to have some help with the front. Any info, suggestions, or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: middle of effin no where, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
if you just want a little boost for cheep, go with the 2" spacers. however if you want to stick some 31's on there, go with the 3". as far as "hopping in" it's not a problem, (unless you classify as a dwarf, then I recomend a milk crate for a step) but you'll need the extra space to keep from rubbing. plus if you do some research, and buy some used coils(theyre all over from people goin bigger). you can build a bastard leaf pack with your stock main spring and some s-10 leaf packs, and save yourself a bunch of cash. that's what I'm doing. once it's done I'll do a write-up.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,251
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Hendersonville, NC
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Installed my RC budget boost. Now its time to start collecting parts for another 2". List so far:
Wheels
Tires
rear shackles
swaybar discos
longer coils (anybody know where to get 2" longer coils?)
longer shocks
extended brake lines
relocate track bar
anything I'm missing?
Wheels
Tires
rear shackles
swaybar discos
longer coils (anybody know where to get 2" longer coils?)
longer shocks
extended brake lines
relocate track bar
anything I'm missing?
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 903
Likes: 1
From: Linthicum, Md
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1987 4.0L (242 CID) I6 RENIX FI 242 173 hp (129 kW) @ 4600 rpm, 224 lb•ft (304 N-m) @ 4000RPM
Using the search button will help you find a bunch of places / links / helpful tips to getting extra lift. As well as looking at the "Sticky's".
That being said. If you dont like spacers and want more lift try doing a JY lift. If you go bigger than 3, dont forget to adjust for brakes and pitmans and so on...
Below was pulled from our sticky
Suspension & Lift:
1. ZJ V8 Upcountry Coils = 1-1.5" lift
2. F-150/Bronco Coils ('70s-ish) = 4-4.5" lift
3. S10 (P/U or Blazer) leaf packs (cut eyes off S10 main and bolt pack under XJ main) = 3-4" lift (may require use of degree shims)
4. Dakota Bastard Pack (do same as with S10 pack) = ~4" lift
5. JK shocks = slight mod to fit 2-4" lift (some dispute)
6. MJ Shackles = 1/2" lift
7. Camaro Spring Isolators = 1.5" lift
8. Full size Blazer Bastard Pack (do same as S10 pack) = 4-4.5" lift (may require use of shims) may be stiffer than S10 leafs
9. ZJ spring isolators = stronger, metal core, can be stacked
10. GM fullsize pickup shackles ('95-99) = 1.5" lift, better shackle angle
11. Thunderbird Front Coils ('83-97) = 3-4" lift (varies in lift and softness by year and trim package), will need top plate from strut too
12. Any 2.5" wide leaf spring can be used between to make a bastard pack (they may differ in stiffness and lift)
13. S10 Shocks (Rear only) = good for the lift you will get when you do a bastard pack
14. TJ Lift Coils (front only) = provide 1" less lift on an XJ than on a TJ
That being said. If you dont like spacers and want more lift try doing a JY lift. If you go bigger than 3, dont forget to adjust for brakes and pitmans and so on...
Below was pulled from our sticky
Suspension & Lift:
1. ZJ V8 Upcountry Coils = 1-1.5" lift
2. F-150/Bronco Coils ('70s-ish) = 4-4.5" lift
3. S10 (P/U or Blazer) leaf packs (cut eyes off S10 main and bolt pack under XJ main) = 3-4" lift (may require use of degree shims)
4. Dakota Bastard Pack (do same as with S10 pack) = ~4" lift
5. JK shocks = slight mod to fit 2-4" lift (some dispute)
6. MJ Shackles = 1/2" lift
7. Camaro Spring Isolators = 1.5" lift
8. Full size Blazer Bastard Pack (do same as S10 pack) = 4-4.5" lift (may require use of shims) may be stiffer than S10 leafs
9. ZJ spring isolators = stronger, metal core, can be stacked
10. GM fullsize pickup shackles ('95-99) = 1.5" lift, better shackle angle
11. Thunderbird Front Coils ('83-97) = 3-4" lift (varies in lift and softness by year and trim package), will need top plate from strut too
12. Any 2.5" wide leaf spring can be used between to make a bastard pack (they may differ in stiffness and lift)
13. S10 Shocks (Rear only) = good for the lift you will get when you do a bastard pack
14. TJ Lift Coils (front only) = provide 1" less lift on an XJ than on a TJ
Installed my RC budget boost. Now its time to start collecting parts for another 2". List so far:
Wheels
Tires
rear shackles
swaybar discos
longer coils (anybody know where to get 2" longer coils?)
longer shocks
extended brake lines
relocate track bar
anything I'm missing?
Wheels
Tires
rear shackles
swaybar discos
longer coils (anybody know where to get 2" longer coils?)
longer shocks
extended brake lines
relocate track bar
anything I'm missing?
I would go ahead and do a fourinch I just installed a four and half with tcase drop the t case dropp is cheap and easy and roghcountrys kit comes with it and it isn't bad to do and then you can save up for another drive shaft if you really feel the need for a sye kit but if your goin to do all that work get a fourinch now bc later on you will probably end up doin it.
I would go ahead and do a fourinch I just installed a four and half with tcase drop the t case dropp is cheap and easy and roghcountrys kit comes with it and it isn't bad to do and then you can save up for another drive shaft if you really feel the need for a sye kit but if your goin to do all that work get a fourinch now bc later on you will probably end up doin it.
You lose center clearance.
If you don't have the money to do it right the first time, just don't do it at all. In the end of the day you'll still need an alignment.
So if you don't have the money to do the 4" lift with a SYE, then I'd just stick with a 3" unless you can save and get all you'd need at once.
It only like an inch of clearance lost but you are right but I wnet ahead with the four inch and im saving up for a sye right now but I believe it will be alright with the stock shaft as long as its like new a new one should last awhile I don't go off road just maybe once a blue moon I have no time to have fun between school and work
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: Tacoma Wa
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I think you should go with the 3".. I just lifted mine 3" and it wasn't enough I just got done putting 2" BB on it a few weeks ago it looks pretty good now and I only have 31's. good luck just remember it really only matters what you want and think you will be happy with!
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: middle of effin no where, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
I really don't like Tcase drops.
You lose center clearance.
If you don't have the money to do it right the first time, just don't do it at all. In the end of the day you'll still need an alignment.
So if you don't have the money to do the 4" lift with a SYE, then I'd just stick with a 3" unless you can save and get all you'd need at once.
You lose center clearance.
If you don't have the money to do it right the first time, just don't do it at all. In the end of the day you'll still need an alignment.
So if you don't have the money to do the 4" lift with a SYE, then I'd just stick with a 3" unless you can save and get all you'd need at once.
Well I have a rough country four and ahalf and 31 10.5s and it looks good and drives good still just saving for a sye right now if I get an sye can I remove the tcase drop and be fine because I want to take the tcase off if I can


