How to identify Ford 8.8 for an XJ
11-14-2018, 09:20 PM
#76
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Year: 95
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Is the 8.8 4.88 geared? If not, guess what, you need to regear anyway to match the front.
I think you're confused about spline count and gear ratios.
The carrier holds the ring gear, but also accepts the axle shafts. So, the ring and pinion gears are paired, one goes in the diff housing (pinion) and one on the carrier (ring gear), and the axle shafts come into the carrier from the sides, generally, the more splines on the axle shafts, the stronger they are. A difference of a single spline is minimal.
So, your 8.8 axle needs to be geared to 4.88, as does the front. The 8.8 also needs tu o be shaved of perches and mounts, rewelded with new,, and u joints need to be addressed. Trust us, there's a lot more to it than just getting a 8.8 and calling it good.
I think you're confused about spline count and gear ratios.
The carrier holds the ring gear, but also accepts the axle shafts. So, the ring and pinion gears are paired, one goes in the diff housing (pinion) and one on the carrier (ring gear), and the axle shafts come into the carrier from the sides, generally, the more splines on the axle shafts, the stronger they are. A difference of a single spline is minimal.
So, your 8.8 axle needs to be geared to 4.88, as does the front. The 8.8 also needs tu o be shaved of perches and mounts, rewelded with new,, and u joints need to be addressed. Trust us, there's a lot more to it than just getting a 8.8 and calling it good.
Welding and shaving is not an issue as someone will do it for me.
What I'm really concerned about is paying more to upgrade my current axle than swapping a new and stronger axle which will give me room in the future for more upgrades.
Im new to this and thats why Im asking I just dont want to end up paying more.
Everybody keeps saying just to keep the 8.25 and upgrade it but no one explaines clearly why it is better other than just because there is welding involved.
11-14-2018, 09:43 PM
#77
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No Ford 8.8s came with 4.56 or 4.88 gears so you would have to add the cost of regearing the 8.8 in as well. Strength wise 35s are the safe limit for both the 8.8 and 8.25.
11-14-2018, 09:56 PM
#78
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Year: 95
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I want to build my jeep to last for a long time, i want to upgrade it the most I can and dont have to worry about upgrading stuff again untill I break something, but my plan is to keep it for a very long time.
11-15-2018, 09:40 AM
#79
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I found on amazon a 4.88 kit for about $400. And gears foe my dana 30 front axle would cost me around $300. If i regear my 8.25 which id need to, id need to change carrier and spline as well. I know that to do the 8.8 swap id need other stuff as well but i still think i would be cheaper than upgrading the 8.25.
I want to build my jeep to last for a long time, i want to upgrade it the most I can and dont have to worry about upgrading stuff again untill I break something, but my plan is to keep it for a very long time.
I want to build my jeep to last for a long time, i want to upgrade it the most I can and dont have to worry about upgrading stuff again untill I break something, but my plan is to keep it for a very long time.
11-15-2018, 10:04 AM
#80
::CF Administrator::
Why buy everything brand new? You can get the carrier and shafts from the junkyard or part out for cheap. Heck, you might even find a Liberty 8.25 that's got disc brakes already.
11-15-2018, 12:34 PM
#81
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Year: 95
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So far I consider it is cheaper to swap, but I am not so experienced on this, thats why I am asking, maybe I am missing something but no one really explaines why its better to upgrqde the 8.25 instead of doing the swap other than there is id have to weld and that I have to do more research.
What parts would I need to buy in order to do the swap?
What parts would I need to buy in order to do the swap?
11-15-2018, 12:37 PM
#82
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I forgot to mentione I dont live in the US and Jeeps are a very rare thing here, however there are tonns of Exploreres in every JY. I cound not find any 29 spline Xj anywhere, i actually found only one 90 XJ where I live.
11-15-2018, 01:17 PM
#84
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Year: 95
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I wanna built muy jeep to last for a long long time and have not to worry about upgrading anything else thats all.
I just does not make sense to me to spend almost $2000 upgrading what I currently have when I mighy something a bit stronger for cheaper. Just correct me if im wrong, maybe I am missing something that would make the swap more expensive than upgrading but no one would say why it is better to keep the 8.25 moneywise.
If i just wanted to swap the 8.8 I would not even bother to ask more experienced people.
11-15-2018, 02:21 PM
#86
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This is actually an important part in the decision, what's more readily available in your locale for spares/replacement parts. As said above, building it right is going to cost about the same, but sounds like 8.25s aren't readily available, that changes things. At this point I'll actually say go for the swap, it's probably better for you.
11-15-2018, 02:26 PM
#87
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Year: 1989 Comanche
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i'd keep the 8.25. regear both. are you breaking shafts right now? if not, why do you HAVE to upgrade? it doesnt sound like you will be doing too hard of wheeling. keep what you have. i'd venture to say you will have more issues with the Dana 30 in the long run anyways.
also, i would never swap in an 8.8 without doing a c clip eliminator.
also, i would never swap in an 8.8 without doing a c clip eliminator.
11-15-2018, 02:41 PM
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Year: 1994
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I upgraded to a 8.8 in mine. I thought it was the best way to go I got disk brakes ,4.10 gears and limited slip all for $75.00 then the install began
first I bought a iron rock off-road truss and install kit 224.99 then the abs sensor block off 8.99 then the brake hoses 66.99 then the driveshaft flange 42.99 then a brake job was about 100 I also opted to rebuild the clutches in the limited slip 75.99 then the e brakes and cables ran me about 100 then did all the fab work my self after I got it done I was super excited it was exactly what I wanted until I went wheeling with my 34x10.50 15 swampers the lsd didn’t last more than a few trips then it was smoked I rebuilt it again and added a extra disk that helped a lot but it only lasted slightly longer sooooo time to ditch that junk well with the lsd case there is no mini spools available and the only lunch box style locker cost 500 and the ford center section is the weak link so I went Yukon grizzly that was 710.00 with the master install kit I ran my factory gears to save money they wer nice then the next problem was the crush sleeve not crushing right so I ended up getting a crush sleeve eliminator kit 15.00 also went with the solid diff cover witch is not a must so I won’t includ that money So at 1419.95 not including paying for install , labor,fluids and only paying 75.00 for my rear diff you can now see how you can get way more money than you think in a 8.8 also you will need wheel spacers if you want it to be the same width but I do not run them on mine you can’t tell by the naked eye anyway
first I bought a iron rock off-road truss and install kit 224.99 then the abs sensor block off 8.99 then the brake hoses 66.99 then the driveshaft flange 42.99 then a brake job was about 100 I also opted to rebuild the clutches in the limited slip 75.99 then the e brakes and cables ran me about 100 then did all the fab work my self after I got it done I was super excited it was exactly what I wanted until I went wheeling with my 34x10.50 15 swampers the lsd didn’t last more than a few trips then it was smoked I rebuilt it again and added a extra disk that helped a lot but it only lasted slightly longer sooooo time to ditch that junk well with the lsd case there is no mini spools available and the only lunch box style locker cost 500 and the ford center section is the weak link so I went Yukon grizzly that was 710.00 with the master install kit I ran my factory gears to save money they wer nice then the next problem was the crush sleeve not crushing right so I ended up getting a crush sleeve eliminator kit 15.00 also went with the solid diff cover witch is not a must so I won’t includ that money So at 1419.95 not including paying for install , labor,fluids and only paying 75.00 for my rear diff you can now see how you can get way more money than you think in a 8.8 also you will need wheel spacers if you want it to be the same width but I do not run them on mine you can’t tell by the naked eye anyway
11-15-2018, 02:42 PM
#89
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Year: 95
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i'd keep the 8.25. regear both. are you breaking shafts right now? if not, why do you HAVE to upgrade? it doesnt sound like you will be doing too hard of wheeling. keep what you have. i'd venture to say you will have more issues with the Dana 30 in the long run anyways.
also, i would never swap in an 8.8 without doing a c clip eliminator.
also, i would never swap in an 8.8 without doing a c clip eliminator.
11-15-2018, 02:49 PM
#90
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Year: 95
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I upgraded to a 8.8 in mine. I thought it was the best way to go I got disk brakes ,4.10 gears and limited slip all for $75.00 then the install began
first I bought a iron rock off-road truss and install kit 224.99 then the abs sensor block off 8.99 then the brake hoses 66.99 then the driveshaft flange 42.99 then a brake job was about 100 I also opted to rebuild the clutches in the limited slip 75.99 then the e brakes and cables ran me about 100 then did all the fab work my self after I got it done I was super excited it was exactly what I wanted until I went wheeling with my 34x10.50 15 swampers the lsd didn’t last more than a few trips then it was smoked I rebuilt it again and added a extra disk that helped a lot but it only lasted slightly longer sooooo time to ditch that junk well with the lsd case there is no mini spools available and the only lunch box style locker cost 500 and the ford center section is the weak link so I went Yukon grizzly that was 710.00 with the master install kit I ran my factory gears to save money they wer nice then the next problem was the crush sleeve not crushing right so I ended up getting a crush sleeve eliminator kit 15.00 also went with the solid diff cover witch is not a must so I won’t includ that money So at 1419.95 not including paying for install , labor,fluids and only paying 75.00 for my rear diff you can now see how you can get way more money than you think in a 8.8 also you will need wheel spacers if you want it to be the same width but I do not run them on mine you can’t tell by the naked eye anyway
first I bought a iron rock off-road truss and install kit 224.99 then the abs sensor block off 8.99 then the brake hoses 66.99 then the driveshaft flange 42.99 then a brake job was about 100 I also opted to rebuild the clutches in the limited slip 75.99 then the e brakes and cables ran me about 100 then did all the fab work my self after I got it done I was super excited it was exactly what I wanted until I went wheeling with my 34x10.50 15 swampers the lsd didn’t last more than a few trips then it was smoked I rebuilt it again and added a extra disk that helped a lot but it only lasted slightly longer sooooo time to ditch that junk well with the lsd case there is no mini spools available and the only lunch box style locker cost 500 and the ford center section is the weak link so I went Yukon grizzly that was 710.00 with the master install kit I ran my factory gears to save money they wer nice then the next problem was the crush sleeve not crushing right so I ended up getting a crush sleeve eliminator kit 15.00 also went with the solid diff cover witch is not a must so I won’t includ that money So at 1419.95 not including paying for install , labor,fluids and only paying 75.00 for my rear diff you can now see how you can get way more money than you think in a 8.8 also you will need wheel spacers if you want it to be the same width but I do not run them on mine you can’t tell by the naked eye anyway
I'll save the trouble of going thru what u have gone thru so I'll just upgrade my 8.25.
Thanks