How crucial is pinion angle SYE
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2014
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From: Manitoba, Canada
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have been chasing a vibration for awhile now, I have narrowed it down to the rear. After taking a angle finder to the drive shaft and pinion, I have noticed that the pinion angle is below the drive shaft by 4 degrees ( I am using a 6 degree shim). Is this enough deviation to cause a vibration above 60 mph were the vibes start?
I have swapped the drive shafts around, both have been balanced and fully rebuilt, cant see it being the drive shafts then.
I have swapped the drive shafts around, both have been balanced and fully rebuilt, cant see it being the drive shafts then.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 197
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From: Manitoba, Canada
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have been chasing a vibration for awhile now, I have narrowed it down to the rear. After taking a angle finder to the drive shaft and pinion, I have noticed that the pinion angle is below the drive shaft by 4 degrees ( I am using a 6 degree shim). Is this enough deviation to cause a vibration above 60 mph were the vibes start?
I have swapped the drive shafts around, both have been balanced and fully rebuilt, cant see it being the drive shafts then.
I have swapped the drive shafts around, both have been balanced and fully rebuilt, cant see it being the drive shafts then.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 197
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From: Manitoba, Canada
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm going to take it for a drive later today with just the front drive shaft in, just be sure it is the rear. I have the front out right now and its the same vibes still. I used a advance adapters SYE if anyone wanted to know.
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Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Blunt, South Dakota
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.6 stroker
Are you talking about the yoke near the diff, or the yoke off of the TC?
If you are talking the one near the diff, it needs to be as straight to 0* as possible. Kinda like this:

The one on the bottom is how it should look, you need to be as close to 0* as possible. The double cardan joint at the top is where all the angle happens.
If you are talking the one near the diff, it needs to be as straight to 0* as possible. Kinda like this:

The one on the bottom is how it should look, you need to be as close to 0* as possible. The double cardan joint at the top is where all the angle happens.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2014
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From: Manitoba, Canada
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The yoke at the differential side is 4 degrees lower then driveshaft angle. The t case side does it have to be 90 degrees like that? Mine is tilted downwards even with a new transmission mount.
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From: Southern Maryland
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
It can be pretty persnickety. I used 4* shims when I installed an SYE on my RE 4.5 lift, the angles were pretty close but I still got vibes. Later when I swapped the rear axle, I put in 6* shims and the problem went away.
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Joined: Nov 2014
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From: Manitoba, Canada
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I am running the RE 3.5" leaf springs, with a JKS boomerang shackle, 6 degree shim atm. Im probably near 5" lift in the rear considering the 3.5 springs give more lift than advertised. I may try out a 8 degree shim, IRO makes one and so does RE.
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Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Blunt, South Dakota
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.6 stroker
You need to degree shim the diff side to get to within 1-3 degrees of 0. The closer to 0* the better. Try using a 3* shim instead of 6*, it will depend on which direction it's off. You might need to add a 3* shim, you might need to remove a 3* shim. Hard to tell without pics. Jockey the shims around until you get the bottom as close to 0* as you can.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2014
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From: Manitoba, Canada
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It's just a sample pic to show the angle difference. Top pic shows a theoretical example of 15*, bottom pic shows the cardan joint splits it into 2 angles of 7.5* each.
You need to degree shim the diff side to get to within 1-3 degrees of 0. The closer to 0* the better. Try using a 3* shim instead of 6*, it will depend on which direction it's off. You might need to add a 3* shim, you might need to remove a 3* shim. Hard to tell without pics. Jockey the shims around until you get the bottom as close to 0* as you can.
You need to degree shim the diff side to get to within 1-3 degrees of 0. The closer to 0* the better. Try using a 3* shim instead of 6*, it will depend on which direction it's off. You might need to add a 3* shim, you might need to remove a 3* shim. Hard to tell without pics. Jockey the shims around until you get the bottom as close to 0* as you can.
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 14,479
Likes: 805
From: Blunt, South Dakota
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.6 stroker
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 197
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From: Manitoba, Canada
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0


