High-Speed Cherokee

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Aug 17, 2012 | 03:13 PM
  #16  
Quote: he doesnt need everything but you suggested all that? lol
I suggested it... Need it? Different story lol. I don't need what I have.
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Aug 17, 2012 | 03:17 PM
  #17  
haha me either. well if I was gonna gear an axle and drive it fast I'd WANT a stock width 9"
is it a hard axle to find?
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Aug 17, 2012 | 03:20 PM
  #18  
Quote:
What can I get a 9" from without buying a whole new unit? Any suggestions?

I'm struggling with balancing offroading 9 months with snow driving 3 months, and diffs are the biggest concern with that for me. What I want is a switchable LSD/locked, but the only diff that does that is the ECTED, and everyone I know with one has troubles getting it to disengage. [You'd think they'd offer a cable-fed version, instead of the electrical.] Of course, diffs aren't cheap, so I'll probably just take whatever I can get.
Ive heard good things about the eaton elocker and arb air locker
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Aug 18, 2012 | 12:00 AM
  #19  
edit: Oh, hey, what I was actually stopping by to ask is, those of you who recommend Deavers, why those, as opposed to, whatever, Rubicon Express or Rusty's or whatever? What makes them better for high-speed running than other springs? Because they're progressive?

Quote: Short arms with drop brackets have won the 1900 class jeepspeed for the last four years IIRC. LAs are great but not necessary.
My understanding - which could fill a shot glass with room for a shot left behind - is that long arms are more about maintaining good on-road manners than benefiting off-road. Does that fit with what you know? If not, what are the benefits of long arms?

Quote: Hmm, ok. Your dirt roads must be way different than our dirt roads.

60mph on our dirt roads leads to certain death.
Could be, could be. What are your dirt roads like? What happens if you drive quickly down them? I drive 60 down unmaintained logging roads and two-tracks, too [with an 80s BMW 3-series, before I got smart and bought an XJ!], so I guess I could just be, you know, nutty.


Quote: you can pull one from a junk yard. if you can find one stock length that is
oh. and has anyone suggested motor mounts yet?
What would I get it out of? And nope, nobody's suggested motor mounts yet. My new Cherokee [which I'll be picking up in a week or two, god willing and the creek don't rise] has just been completely disassembled and reassembled, so - sort of doing it while it's all apart - now's a great time to do things like motor mounts, before Michigan turns the whole shooting match into a giant ball of rust.

Quote: Ive heard good things about the eaton elocker and arb air locker
The Arb is my diff of choice right now, mostly because I'll have to have - okay, "would like to have" - an air compressor, anyway, but damn is that going to get expensive in a hurry. Both it and the Eaton are just open diffs [rather than LSDs] until you lock them, but I'm not entirely sure how helpful an LSD is going to be on my Cherokee, anyway.
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Aug 18, 2012 | 10:29 PM
  #20  
The drop brackets will give you good angles for better on and off road manners like long arms. If you could drive down those roads with anything other than a high clearance truck and stay in one piece, you don't need deavers and crazy shocks.
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Aug 18, 2012 | 11:57 PM
  #21  
People suggest deavers because they have more thin leaves for a more progressive spring rate to keep the wheels in contact with with the ground rather than hitting a bump and the rear jumping in the air, also my friends have drop brackets and they will probably end up going to long arms even though they have done just fine with drop brackets they want more
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Aug 19, 2012 | 12:29 AM
  #22  
i went from drop brackets to longarms for a couple of reasons.

1. the longarm kit rides better
2. the longarm kit has a better mounting design for offroad use. nothing hanging excessively low to get hung up on.
3. better performance offroad.

also youre average set of dropbrackets runs 180
decent set of adjustable flexible lowers is 230
average set of adjustable uppers is 200

total is 610

my rc longarm kit was 550 shipped and it has the HD crossmember the t-case skid, and a drop pitman arm included.

noe people are going to flame about the RC longarm kit flame on....
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Aug 19, 2012 | 01:27 AM
  #23  
but he's talking about driving fast on dirt roads. pre runner style
wouldnt short arms with drop brackets be much more predictable at high speeds?
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Aug 19, 2012 | 04:24 AM
  #24  
Would converting to rear coils make a better ride then leafs?
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Aug 19, 2012 | 05:59 AM
  #25  
Quote: but he's talking about driving fast on dirt roads. pre runner style
wouldnt short arms with drop brackets be much more predictable at high speeds?
Than a junk long arm kit? Idk. I just know short arms with dbs work well, and so does a good la kit.





Quote: Would converting to rear coils make a better ride then leafs?
Yea, if you build it right. But that's way more money than a nice set of leaf springs.
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Aug 19, 2012 | 07:52 AM
  #26  
Quote: but he's talking about driving fast on dirt roads. pre runner style
Thanks for reminding me: let me disabuse a notion here that's my fault for not being clear on. I'm not really talking about driving on dirt roads. I drive on dirt roads at high speeds with unmodified passenger cars, without any problems. [Well, bouncing about on washboard or whatever, you know.] My real concern is forest roads, logging trails, open fields: rough terrain, in other words. My YJ was set up to crawl rocks, which we don't have [and I don't crawl]; I'm hoping to make sure my new XJ works like my old XJ, and can plow through hummocks and potholes and washboard and downed braches without the hurling about of folk.

But yeah, as I understand it, what I want to build is a prerunner: a not-quite-race-ready daily driver that I can use to drive quickly off road.

Quote: People suggest deavers because they have more thin leaves for a more progressive spring rate to keep the wheels in contact with with the ground rather than hitting a bump and the rear jumping in the air
That's what I was thinking, and I think it's exactly what I'm looking for. But that basically means I'll need to essentially design my own lift kit and buy it a la carte, yeah? Because most lifts come with springs, I mean. That's not a problem, but y'all are going to have to keep giving me advice.

Quote: noe people are going to flame about the RC longarm kit flame on....
Well, let's hear it, people! Is anyone going to flame the RC longarm kit? What're the pros and cons? [Well, the pro is that it's inexpensive: what's the con?]

Quote: Would converting to rear coils make a better ride then leafs?
At that point, I'll just get in my daughter's TJ.
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Aug 19, 2012 | 08:17 AM
  #27  
I am a forester for the state of Michigan. I live in the northern lower and drive 55-65 mph on our logging and dirt roads every day. Our paved roads on the other hand, you will achieve certain death on those at such speeds. Our dirt roads are often better than the paved because they can be maintained by the logger or another private individual instead of requiring funding from the county.

Where in Michigan you from?
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Aug 19, 2012 | 11:56 AM
  #28  
Quote: Than a junk long arm kit? Idk. I just know short arms with dbs work well, and so does a good la kit.
I just envision lifting a tire on high speed turns with long arms. unless you're gonna run a sway bar but then what was the point of long arms in the first place
maybe dual purpose rig
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Aug 19, 2012 | 12:02 PM
  #29  
Quote: I just envision lifting a tire on high speed turns with long arms. unless you're gonna run a sway bar but then what was the point of long arms in the first place
maybe dual purpose rig
What do you mean lifting a tire? The jeepspeed guys all run antirocks AFAIK.
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Aug 19, 2012 | 02:53 PM
  #30  
i know that RC is not the best kit by far, but just how is it junk 93xjli? just cause its not a highend true 4 link?

and defnitely run swaybars for high speed driving.
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