I current have in my 89 xj 4.0 a stock alternator but want to install a high output one cuz I plan on installin about 4 kc lights and currently have a warn winch hooked up, my question is what are the down falls to installing a high output alternator if any. Also what else would I have to do in order to get full power of the upgrade and eliminate any future problems.

 

We need more write up's in the tech section on how to do this kind of stuff, but you have to go to a dakota 4 banger alt, or do some grinding and swap in a ZJ alt.

 

You should do the "big 3" which upgrades your positive wire from the battery to the alt and the battery to chassis and engine block to chassis ground wires. Its simple and straight forward, I changed my ground at work the other day when I was bored

Good brands
Excessive Amperage
Mean Green
Stinger (expensive)
Ohio Generators
Wrangler Power

 

From what I understand the factory wiring is kinda wimpy too so I know a lot of people upgrade to a bigger gauge wire set. This would be the wires to the power distribution center, all ground wires/straps, alternator and starter wires, and probably a few others I'm forgetting. I plan on doing this upgrade in the future with a big-amperage alternator for the same reason. I wanna put in an inverter, hard-wire my compressor, and add some roof lights. I think people go with wire in the 0-4gauge range depending on the application/location. I plan on using 4ga for most of my hot wires and probably a little bigger for the main ground locations! (I think a lot of the factory wires are 8ga) Take a bunch of measurements & note the connectors on the ends of the wires and any car parts place should be able to make new wires and crimp the proper connectors onto the ends after cutting all the different length for ya!

If you haven't yet, you'll probably want to get a nice, beefy battery too.

I found the write-up on wire gauge selection that Stu-Offroad.com has to be pretty enlightening, not being an expert in conductivity and el.mechanics!

 

Ok thanks for the help by the way the alternator im lookin into is from http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/cata...Fcategory%3D41
Its a 135 amp- 105 amp at idle for $150 is that good.

 

What year did they switch from the external regulator to the internal?

 

Where can I get bigger guaged battery cables that aren't that expensive

 

NO!

I just went through this here with someone else, probably yesterday.

The Nippondenso used in the Dakota and ZJ is not a direct drop-in - the 89 uses the internally-regulated Delco CS-130. You'll have to add a voltage regulator and modify your system's wiring to make it work (not impossible, but there are easier solutions.)

Easier solutions include:
- Finding a CS144 that will fit. I don't have a donor list to hand, but if you search "CS144" or "Delco CS144" on various Jeep boards you may find your answers.
- Finding a higher-output CS130 and swapping the front case (so you get the proper mounting)
- Taking your CS130 to a competent shop and asking them to rewire it for you.
- (Maybe) Go to the parts house and buy the 100A version if your alternator.

Why is the last one a "maybe?" Because I don't know which alternator you have now. The RENIX rigs (1987-1990 w/AMC engine) used the CS130 in three different ratings - 61A, 80A, and 100A. The 61A is the "base" alternator, the 80A is the Laredo with power goodies, base with tow package, and base Limited, and the 100A is the one for "all the fruit."

But, any competent shop can upwind your Delco for a nominal fee (probably works out to about $1/A, give or take) and extend your capability.

However, unless you get stupid with the lighting (in either quantity or individual wattage,) you'll probably be just fine with the stock or the next rating higher (unless you're going to use a winch - a lot - the 100A is plenty for adding several electrical goodies.)

People, one more time:

The Nippondenso is only a direct swap for 1991-up XJ and MJ.

Say it with me now: "The Nippondenso is not a drop-in replacement for the Delco."

I've had to correct this so many times it's starting to make me itch. Pay attention to the model year - or, if it's not given, ask. Stop Putting Out Bogus Information (SPOBI,) and we'll all get on fine.

Or, you're going to end up with someone being pi**** at you for telling him the wrong thing. Not strictly your fault - except you didn't verify application before giving parts information (I wasted three and a half years behind parts counters - I saw it happen far more than I'd care to talk about. The cause was invariably either the counterman didn't verify all of the application information, or the customer didn't know what he was doing and "didn't think it was important." Even odds - both avoidable.)

Battery cables? Link in sig. All of my customers, so far, have been very happy with my work.

 

Not bad - as I said above, about $1/amp seems to be the thumb rule for good pricing on Delcos.

I believe you're going to want the "offset right" version of the case - I know it's not a straight mount, but I don't have one handy to look at.

You'll want a six-groove pully - if it doesn't have it on there when you get it, you can swap yours fairly easily (I know the old SIs would swap easily with a 3/8" hex key and a 7/8" box wrench - sizes are probably similar on the CS series. An impact wrench will also work - just don't get stupid with torquing the thing back on, and wear a work glove to hold the pully and fan!)

Hm - just looked, and I'm not sure if the "AMC/Jeep Pivot Ear" is what you're going to want. It probably is, but I'd ask (being me.) However, select the six-groove 2.5" pully, and do not select the one-wire regulator (you don't need it.) The rear output post is fine. Don't bother with chrome - a chrome-plated surface is worst for dissipating heat, and you're looking at potential heat-related failures of the rectifier and/or regulator. Leave it natural, you'll be fine.

 

I had to do quite a bit of grinding on the.body of the alternator, the mount and had to jack up the engine to get the higher amp alternator in place. It was a pita iif you ask me. Took a good 3-4 to do as there was alot of trial and error to make it fit. The alternator i bought was from a 98 durango

 

https://weldingsupply.securesites.co...R:terms::PA#A2

Or a local car audio shop would have it(id go here) For a 135 amp alt you would be fine with 4 awg. For how short it will be you could run 175 amps thru it ok.

 

Ok thanks for the help but I found out that we sell cable wire at my work so ill probably just make them my self only then I need is what is a good size wire, I was thinkin bout 1/0 gauge or 2/0

 

Here's a 105-amp new alternator with warranty for $95.59:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQJeepQQCherokeeQQQuality-BuiltQQAlternatorQQ19871990QQMPA8137607N.html

 

The 136A Durango alternator that I installed several years ago did not require so much grinding. I just radiused the stamped steel mount and clearanced the aluminum mount that bolts to the block and that was all... No grinding necessary for the alternator housing.
I also swapped the original charging stud insulator so that I could have the charging lead in the same orientation and then swapped the pulley from the old to the new alternator so the alternator would spin at the RPMs.
If you slow the alternator RPMs down by using a larger pulley then the engine needs to spin faster before the alternator will produce the required amperage.

 

4 awg would be fine. 1/0 is prolly a little excessive, but is fine.