wmmccall

I was screwing around on Hesco's site and notice that they have a "High Flow" thermostat housing. Looking at the picture it looks like all they did was shave off some of the material on the inside. Does anybody got any input on this?

I know a hi-flow pump should probably be used inconjuction with it. Also, thier pump looks pretty good too.

Bustedback

The only thing that will flow high is the money out of your wallet if you buy that t-stat housing. You will see no difference in cooling, and the t-stat is a restriction anyway. You run more of a chance of having the HF s-stat housing leaking because of where it's hogged out.

thakmfb

It would be hard to tell if that would actually help or not. I would not buy one I would just go to the junkyard and grab one then get to work with a dremel and make it look like the pic and try it out

UsmclovesXJ

it would not really help out bc that is the only change in your cooling system so it will just get threw that part a lil bit faster but still get held up at the nxt bend or move of pipe

wmmccall

I figured it would be useless. Just thought I would check with the XJ Subject Matter Experts.

Also, Hesco makes great products. Just too bad the prices are through the ROOF!

BigJeepin2

I am amazed at the answers in here. This guy was looking for good advice, and this whole thread was a total epic fail.
I have been running a high flow T-stat housing for 6 years. And YES it does make a difference. You have to use a high flow t-stat along with it ($25).
It allows the hot water to leave the motor faster, and the cooler water from radiator to enter the motor faster. Even with the stock water pump. Because the stock t-stat housing is very restrictive. My jeep used to run at the 210 mark constantly. When I replaced the housing and t-stat with the high flow options, it solved that issue.

These guys with the idea that higher flow rate won't make a difference have no clue what there talking about.

Also, for a problematic over heating issue it can be a number of things stacking up and creating the issue.
If you have this issue, or want to ensure your 4.0 motor is going to be realiable even in 100 degree heat on the trails you need to do this:
Buy a 3 row radiator. The high flow t-stat and high flow housing. DO NOT lower the temp of the t-stat. It has to be 195 degrees. If not, it will open too soon, and water in the radiator won't have time to cool off as much before entering motor, and can stay open, never closing, and even worse cooling.
Fuel injectors have to be in great working order. There cheep, replace if over 100k miles. Along with fuel regulator and filter. If there is not enough fuel going into the cylinders, it can create more heat with lean mixture.
Make sure BOTH temp sensors are in like new or new condition. As well as your o2 sensors.
All of this can contribute to a 4.0 jeep running hot.
Take the clutch fan off and throw it as far away as you can. Run 2 electric fans with adjustable temp switches. Have one fan come on at 195 degrees and the secondary fan come on at about 205.
I have done all this except 3 row radiator (will do soon) but I have no problems running hot even at 100 degrees in rush hour stop and go traffic.

Hope this helps some one, and those people running there mouths, should really learn more and talk less.

94XjSport94

Thank you for digging up a 2 year old thread somehow. Don't think your post is going to change the past or the fact that they're a waste of money.

SoCalxJ4.0

First post huh? Well, your 4.0 is designed to run around 210. I think it runs at 212?? That is how it is designed. To have it constantly run cooler, will not allow the engine to cycle correctly since its not reaching nominal temperature. Or something along those lines. I feel the OP had great advice given to him. Thanks for the post.

I live in the Death Valley area, I have a completely stock cooling system. 110 degrees outside, my jeep may hit 215 at idle. And that is a big maybe! If your cooling system is up to par, you do not need any hi-flo anything. Hood vents help the most because they allow the eat to leave the bay.

BigJeepin2

First post means what? What it means is I forgot what e-mail I used 6 years ago and had to make a new one.

I have 6 years with this high flow housing. How many years do you have with it?

Mine don't run at 210. Mine stays at 195-200 as it was designed to do per the t-stat temp rating.

Keep running at 210-215 and see how that works out for you in the long run.
It will progressively get higher over the years. If your running at 215 in traffic, what happens when you go 4 wheeling? Or are you one of those people never take it off road? If your at 215 now, you can't put it in 4 wheel low and go trail riding in the same heat.
There are so many factors in the jeep motor and heat. One factor is the factory cooling system is insufficient.

You came here with the sole purpose of bashing my fact filled post. It is a FACT that a high flow housing and t-stat WILL make a difference, It don't matter where YOU live nor does it matter what YOUR jeep does. It will never change the FACT a high flow housing and t-stat will make a difference, because I live it every day as I drive around from job to job and my temp stays below the 210 mark.

BigJeepin2

What my post will do is give those who are searching for answers to actually find answers and not rubbish.
Isn't that what you guys want people to do before asking? Do a search first right? Now the answer is here and it's accurate.
Whats counterproductive is you 2 coming in here and bashing my answers that are backed by facts. Now you want to create this argument for nothing.
I posted to help others that may be searching, not to entertain you 2 bored people with nothing better to do then make remarks that are not fact based.

SoCalxJ4.0

My jeep was bought new in 1996. By my father. I actually learned how to drive in his cj at the age of 8 (1988) but the xj was what I learned how to wheel in when I got my license in 1996. I'm second owner, this jeep has been in the hotter than you ever lived area it's whole life, and was always used as a hunting trail rig. Your right heavy wheeling, it might creep, I hit a switch, Efan comes on and it returns to NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE. I do not understand why you can't comprehend that, your engine was designed to run at 210, I don't give a flying eff what your AFTERMARKET Tstat is supposed to run at. So before you call someone out, go learn.

And yes, I pretty much wheel everyday, in the heat, because there is nothing else to do in outskirts of hell. Remember, Death Valley, hottest place in the WORLD.

SoCalxJ4.0

Err, my bad. Really wasn't trying to be a *****, but I apologize. Just trying to convey that if everything is up to par, that goes to sensors and everything else that can throw it, your jeep should be running in between 210-212. That is when it is cycling properly and running the most efficient.

SteveSimmons

I have been running a high flow T-stat housing for 6 years. And YES it does make a difference. You have to use a high flow t-stat along with it ($25).
It allows the hot water to leave the motor faster, and the cooler water from the radiator to enter the motor faster. Even with the stock water pump. Because the stock t-stat housing is very restrictive. My jeep used to run at the 210 mark constantly. When I replaced the housing and t-stat with the high flow options, it solved that issue.

Also, for problematic overheating issues, it can be a number of things stacking up and creating the issue.
If you have this issue or want to ensure your 4.0 motor is going to be reliable even in 100° heat on the trails you need to do this:
Buy a 3 row radiator. The high flow t-stat and high flow housing. DO NOT lower the temp of the t-stat. It has to be 195 degrees. If not, it will open too soon, and water in the radiator won't have time to cool off as much before entering the motor.
SKS "Thank you I've been looking for good info on high flow therms, for my 96' V8 GC"

robertj

You've got one thing right, there is a lot of fail in this thread.

Aside from that, what's happening in this thread? It's starting to sound like a commercial! I know this will be preaching to the choir for many of you, but first of all, no high flow anything is needed even if it made a bit of difference. 4.0s are suppose to run at ~210 degrees and will do so while lasting over 300k miles. I can't recall one of my XJs when bought new ever overheating, so I'm thinking the factory setup worked just fine. If you do have an overheating problem, then you have a mechanical problem that needs to be found and fixed with plain old OEM style parts. There are plenty of people that can help with this troubleshooting right here on this forum. Or you can spend lots of money on gadget items that may or may not do anything other than empty your wallets.

R290

Lets add some more facts.
What size tires are you running? 225/75-15 NO
Is everything new NO
Have you been changing parts because you thought it was a good waste of money NO

My XJ with the stock cooling worked ok, but not great. I had stock tires 225/75-15 tires, I did not going rock crawling or plowing through deep snow as it needed mods to do those things.
Note: If it was 100+ outside I did have to fore go the A/C

Fast forward to today.
35x12.50x17 tires. lots of mods like frame stiffeners, heavy duty front and rear bumpers, Rubicon Express 7" lift and a winch. These mods affect cooling because they add weight and the winch blocks air flow.
Still running the mechanical fan and stock electric fan with an override switch. Looking at option to help with cooling. First mod is a fully enclosed fan shroud for the mechanical fan. Modify it by adding an 1.5" around the stock shroud, plus cutting it in half so the top section will come out when needed to access items, like most newer trucks have. .

The stock cooling is not enough for pushing your XJ.
Adding things like high volume water pump, high volume thermostat housings, high volume thermostat, higher flow aluminum radiator all help. If your engine is 210-215 and the outside air on the radiator is 100, that a 100+ degrees difference. The coolant will get cooled faster, your only looking at about 20-25 degree change from inlet to outlet of the radiator, as measure with an IR gun.

I've seen people put 3 electric fans on and not get the performance they hoped it would. Why? Hard to say, they might not have upgraded the electrical for one?

The next option is a bit more radical.
Cut the front radiator and cross member support off, redo the cross member support but lower it enough to fit a full size radiator in its place.
Get rid of all the fans you have now and install a larger one from a Chevy. Now you will have the cooling you need for you modified XJ