No love on the CPS reset. ASD relay? HahaI think my fuel psi regulator might be on my fuel pump... That's another idea. But why would it be bad now...???

 

Check all your fuses.

 

Yeap.
I might mess with the CPS tomorrow.

Any vacuum issues I need to check for as well?

 

Is the CPS under the distributor cap and rotor setup? Is it AKA distributor sensor? It seems hard to find a CPS that looks like the flat piece in the distributor I feel like I need.
And no one has one in stock. Not even RockAuto.

Here is what I'm looking at. This says for a 98 but I searched for 1996.
https://www.carparts.com/details/Jee...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Being my first venture into this situation, I've learned I don't have a CPS. Those are reserved for 2000 and newer motors.
I dont have a psi regulator on the fuel rail, so it's got to be on the fuel pump as Ive read in a few places.
Is it true that the ECU controls the firing of the injectors? Does it do so by reading anything from the ignition system, leading back to the distributor sensor....???
I will check the crankshaft position sensor also. It should read open with a multimeter between B & C terminals.

 

Crank sensor is on the driver side trans bell housing by #6 exhaust manifold runner.
Cam position sensor (distributor index sensor) is under distributor cap.

The ecu uses the crank and cam to determine which cylinder is at TDC compression. It is multiport injection and needs both to run. The ecu controls injector timing and duration as well as shut off, cranking prime, decel cut off, you name it.

 

I’m new here but have a question for the OP.
Does the 96 have a fuel pressure regulator in the tank?
I know the later rail doesn’t have it.
Sorry if it’s a stupid question.
Jeff

 

From what I've read about my 96 the regulator should be on the fuel pump.
I now have new spark plugs, new wires, new coil, and my cap and rotor only have about 5,000 miles on them and look in really good shape.
It cranks right up but has a bit of a vibration in idle, and then there's almost no acceleration and it has a bad vibration while in park between 1,000 and 1500 rpms. Disco'd battery, pulled battery fuse. To see what codes come back.
Only code I've gotten so far that mattered was 43 for current not getting to it's max or something. Not surprised if I should go ahead and do alternator (upgrade) and battery (deep cycle?) while I'm at it... Battery has a 4/18 sticker and has died a time or two and been recharged. No clue how.old the alt is.

 

From what I’ve read on these forums, a less then stellar battery can cause drivability issues.
Are all battery connections clean & tight?
I’ve added an extra grounding strap on one of my cars. I bought a large (wide) braided grounding strap, drilled (enlarged) one side, so my Oxygen Sensor would fit through it & grounded it to the frame.
By any chance did you leave a rag in the exhaust pipe? Maybe pull the oxygen sensor & drive it around to see if you have a plugged exhaust.
What is fuel pressure at? Key on engine off? Engine running at idle? Engine under load?

CPS = Crankshaft Position Sensor. It could also mean Camshaft Position Sensor…

What spark plug did you use? What gap? What brand ignition system did you use?

Maybe look into borrowing NOID fuel injector lights.
How about testing the ignition stem with a spark plug gap tester.

 

When you did the swap, did you use the sensors and throttle body on the new intake?
Just wondering if the TPS is not working correctly or something of that nature.

 

I'm ready to get a new battery and alternator... I'll have nearly a new electrical system besides cables at that point.
It wouldn't bother me to change O2 sensor also.
No rags were harmed in the making of this intake swap.
I put in duralast coil, duralast wires, Bosch platinums at .035".
I'm prolly gonna go ahead and get new cam sensor under distributor AND crank sensor on Bell housing.
I used old TB and sensors got swapped over. Might as well get new ones there too.
I can hear all the injectors ticking when I use a long screwdriver as a stethoscope. Some sound different than others...
And the harness to the intake has more tension on it than it needs, really pulling on that one sensor going into the intake that I swapped over. Couldn't get it any closer to the plug with out cutting, drilling, tapping into the intake.

 

I might have missed it, but have you pulled the plugs and inspected them?
the reason ask is that I gas fouled several once when I had a fuel problem on a CJ I had done a fuel injection engine swap on.
it was all literally new components.
I killed several of the plugs😁
the answer is there we just have to find it.

Jeff

 

Not a stupid question because the '96 was a special year. I actually replaced my fuel pump assembly in my '96 last year because my engine wouldn't crank after turning it off and trying to start it back up. Before replacing the fuel pump assembly, I had to wait until the motor was ice cold again.

95 and earlier are different. The fuel pressure regulator was on the fuel rail instead of on the side of the gas tank with the fuel pump.
96 is different. The fuel pressure regulator is part of the fuel pump assembly and is on the side of the gas tank. Replacing just the fuel pressure regulator on a '96 is problematic because you get part numbers for a 95 and older XJ. A 95 and older fuel pressure regulator on a 96 won't provide enough fuel pressure and the engine either won't start, won't stay running, or will run really rough.
97 and newer are different. The fuel pressure regulator is part of the fuel pump assembly and is on the top of the gas tank. The assembly looks completely different than the 96 fuel pump assembly.

It's much easier to just replace the whole fuel pump assembly on a 96 so you know the correct fuel pressure regulator is on there. I know Crown makes an assembly and I believe Rock Auto has the correct assembly.

 

The reason I ask is because the OP had blown the line and then a no start.
When started it’s now running rough.
I had a fuel return problem on the old CJ I had added FI to.
It had very similar symptoms caused by an over pressure issue.

 

I suppose I could have a coincidental rogue bad regulator....

Plugs are now new with Bosch platinum at .035"

I need to check my fuel psi....

Do the fuel regulators for a 96 look different than others?

I'm on the verge of doing the O2 sensor, cam and crank sensors, and alternator. Prolly even battery.