heat prevention?
#1
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
heat prevention?
I'm taking my engine to be rebuilt.
It is the closed system renix that has had overheating issues since I've gotten it with 50k.
Because I'm tired of cars overheating, I'm now looking into every way possible to keep the engine cool.
I now have an aluminum 3 row radiator and everything to convert to open system.
Now that everything is apart, I'm getting **** about things and been looking into heat wraps because the intake and exhaust are weaved together.
Also I got a pacesetter header and I will paint it with ceramic coating and maybe wrap it.
From what I've read, you want to put the heat wrap on the part that is hot(like header)...but also I've read about wrap that you put on the part that you want to keep cool(intake).
And then I see that people put wrap on the fuels rails on other cars to keep the fuel temp low even though there is minimal improvement.
I've even seen people say to keep aluminum unwrapped to let heat escape.
Also we have a heat shield between the fuel rail and intake manifold...I'm thinking about painting or sticking a wrap to.
I'm curious about the different heat solutions, in terms of wrap or coatings, that other 4.0 owners have done or think should be done.
Thanks,
-Chris
It is the closed system renix that has had overheating issues since I've gotten it with 50k.
Because I'm tired of cars overheating, I'm now looking into every way possible to keep the engine cool.
I now have an aluminum 3 row radiator and everything to convert to open system.
Now that everything is apart, I'm getting **** about things and been looking into heat wraps because the intake and exhaust are weaved together.
Also I got a pacesetter header and I will paint it with ceramic coating and maybe wrap it.
From what I've read, you want to put the heat wrap on the part that is hot(like header)...but also I've read about wrap that you put on the part that you want to keep cool(intake).
And then I see that people put wrap on the fuels rails on other cars to keep the fuel temp low even though there is minimal improvement.
I've even seen people say to keep aluminum unwrapped to let heat escape.
Also we have a heat shield between the fuel rail and intake manifold...I'm thinking about painting or sticking a wrap to.
I'm curious about the different heat solutions, in terms of wrap or coatings, that other 4.0 owners have done or think should be done.
Thanks,
-Chris
#2
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have had headers "Jet Hot" coated for the last 16 yrs. to help control heat and the life of the header. This process has been used on a lot of things by racers for many years.
One thing I did find out in the early 70's were wrapping headers did keep the heat down but caused the header to rust after even a few months on race cars and life of the header was only about 2 yrs.
One thing I did find out in the early 70's were wrapping headers did keep the heat down but caused the header to rust after even a few months on race cars and life of the header was only about 2 yrs.
#3
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Jet hot has a proprietary process different than standard ceramic based powdercoats. Cerakote is also supposed to be good.
Highly recommended - I wouldn't even bother wrapping the header if you get one ceramic coated.
Highly recommended - I wouldn't even bother wrapping the header if you get one ceramic coated.
#5
::CF Administrator::
I will third for NOT wrapping the headers. That stuff is a straight mess. Get a SS ceramic coated header, and save the hassle.
I got a 4.6 stroker for my jeep, and it had a Borla heat wrapped header on it. The wrap was deteriorating, and everything underneath was rusty, and the collectors were cracked. After only 10K miles on the build. Wrap=JUNK
Here's what I went with:
http://gibsonperformance.com/i-22731...-gp400s-c.html
I got a 4.6 stroker for my jeep, and it had a Borla heat wrapped header on it. The wrap was deteriorating, and everything underneath was rusty, and the collectors were cracked. After only 10K miles on the build. Wrap=JUNK
Here's what I went with:
http://gibsonperformance.com/i-22731...-gp400s-c.html
#6
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Model: Cherokee
You could have the header and intake manifold ceramic coated,If you live in a big city you probably have one local.Like said jet hot is the best but you have to ship your parts out and wait which is cool but if you need your jeep daily not the best idea.
#7
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#8
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Thanks guys. Looks like I'm staying away from the wrap. I didn't buy a pre coated header because I'm making my own y pipe to run the exhaust on the driver side.
#10
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
I will third for NOT wrapping the headers. That stuff is a straight mess. Get a SS ceramic coated header, and save the hassle.
I got a 4.6 stroker for my jeep, and it had a Borla heat wrapped header on it. The wrap was deteriorating, and everything underneath was rusty, and the collectors were cracked. After only 10K miles on the build. Wrap=JUNK
Here's what I went with:
http://gibsonperformance.com/i-22731...-gp400s-c.html
I got a 4.6 stroker for my jeep, and it had a Borla heat wrapped header on it. The wrap was deteriorating, and everything underneath was rusty, and the collectors were cracked. After only 10K miles on the build. Wrap=JUNK
Here's what I went with:
http://gibsonperformance.com/i-22731...-gp400s-c.html
#11
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
All ceramic coated headers are not created equal that is why I buy the headers I want and send them to Jet Hot. A lot of the stuff is junk they are using for coating on the pre coated ones, Jet Hot lasts for many years on new ones.
#12
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Fred you are right about jet hot lasting a long time,I have had a set of their headers i use to run on my mustang hanging on my garage wall for years and they still look new in a unheated garage on a wooden wall.
#13
I'm taking my engine to be rebuilt.
It is the closed system renix that has had overheating issues since I've gotten it with 50k.
Because I'm tired of cars overheating, I'm now looking into every way possible to keep the engine cool.
I now have an aluminum 3 row radiator and everything to convert to open system.
Now that everything is apart, I'm getting **** about things and been looking into heat wraps because the intake and exhaust are weaved together.
Also I got a pacesetter header and I will paint it with ceramic coating and maybe wrap it.
From what I've read, you want to put the heat wrap on the part that is hot(like header)...but also I've read about wrap that you put on the part that you want to keep cool(intake).
And then I see that people put wrap on the fuels rails on other cars to keep the fuel temp low even though there is minimal improvement.
I've even seen people say to keep aluminum unwrapped to let heat escape.
Also we have a heat shield between the fuel rail and intake manifold...I'm thinking about painting or sticking a wrap to.
I'm curious about the different heat solutions, in terms of wrap or coatings, that other 4.0 owners have done or think should be done.
Thanks,
-Chris
It is the closed system renix that has had overheating issues since I've gotten it with 50k.
Because I'm tired of cars overheating, I'm now looking into every way possible to keep the engine cool.
I now have an aluminum 3 row radiator and everything to convert to open system.
Now that everything is apart, I'm getting **** about things and been looking into heat wraps because the intake and exhaust are weaved together.
Also I got a pacesetter header and I will paint it with ceramic coating and maybe wrap it.
From what I've read, you want to put the heat wrap on the part that is hot(like header)...but also I've read about wrap that you put on the part that you want to keep cool(intake).
And then I see that people put wrap on the fuels rails on other cars to keep the fuel temp low even though there is minimal improvement.
I've even seen people say to keep aluminum unwrapped to let heat escape.
Also we have a heat shield between the fuel rail and intake manifold...I'm thinking about painting or sticking a wrap to.
I'm curious about the different heat solutions, in terms of wrap or coatings, that other 4.0 owners have done or think should be done.
Thanks,
-Chris
#14
::CF Administrator::
I too will respond to this old thread.
My Gibson headers are still effing perfect. Can't recommend them enough. Eight years later from the last post...my stroker and my headers are strong AF
My Gibson headers are still effing perfect. Can't recommend them enough. Eight years later from the last post...my stroker and my headers are strong AF
#15
Senior Member
I second the ceramic coated version of the Gibson header I've gotten it hot many a time pulling a 3k lb pontoon boat up a driveway snaking along the side of a PA "mountain". Years of trouble free service in the Salt Belt, still looks great despite never touching it, would definitely recommend...