Guys with 1 ton steering question (s)?
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 473
Likes: 1
From: Brunswick County, NC
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I am in the middle of installing my 1 ton steering UTK. I am having an issue with the tie rod hitting my ruff stuff diff cover and on the other side the track bar bolt.
Has any one encountered this before? I should have probably used 1.25 dom tubing instead of 1.5 but this is what I got.
I would rather wait to start grinding on the cover until i have exhausted everything else.
I still have about a half inch gap between the steering stop bolt and the knuckle when this happens. To me it seems like a lot of turn left in the knuckle to just adjust the steering stops.
I don't want to run OTK.
Does anyone see any issues with running the driver side TRE over the knuckle and leaving the passenger side under the knuckle? I think If I did this I could make my grinding of the cover cleaner.
what do you guys think?
Has any one encountered this before? I should have probably used 1.25 dom tubing instead of 1.5 but this is what I got.
I would rather wait to start grinding on the cover until i have exhausted everything else.
I still have about a half inch gap between the steering stop bolt and the knuckle when this happens. To me it seems like a lot of turn left in the knuckle to just adjust the steering stops.
I don't want to run OTK.
Does anyone see any issues with running the driver side TRE over the knuckle and leaving the passenger side under the knuckle? I think If I did this I could make my grinding of the cover cleaner.
what do you guys think?
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 473
Likes: 1
From: Brunswick County, NC
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I did think about that but they don't make an offset TRE for the passenger side where the drag link connects to the TRE. I could only run the driver side TRE but they don't recommend it on their site and the taper size is different.
"These are sold as Lefts & Rights and we also sell them as a complete kit with 1 1/2" X .25" wall DOM tubing. You should not match these to other TRE's that are not offset so get a pair. The Taper is .749"-.748", if you are replacing a smaller TRE you will want to ream the taper to .75". "
They are made for a true crossover system where there is a tierod which is independent of the draglink. The drag link connects directly the knuckle and not the TRE like in the inverted T set up that I am trying to figure out.
"These are sold as Lefts & Rights and we also sell them as a complete kit with 1 1/2" X .25" wall DOM tubing. You should not match these to other TRE's that are not offset so get a pair. The Taper is .749"-.748", if you are replacing a smaller TRE you will want to ream the taper to .75". "
They are made for a true crossover system where there is a tierod which is independent of the draglink. The drag link connects directly the knuckle and not the TRE like in the inverted T set up that I am trying to figure out.
Last edited by Demolition_x; Jan 9, 2012 at 07:41 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Littleton
Year: 88
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Built my tierod with a piece of 1.5" .250wall and then sleeved it into a piece of 1.75" .120wall. Could see I would have a 'problem' like you're encountering, so I killed a 12-ton bender putting a slight bend in both ends before welding in the bushings. Don't know if that's an option for you, but it worked for me. (& I know I'll never bend my TR)!!
I think you can see it in some of my pics...
I think you can see it in some of my pics...
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