WyoCherokee

I am gathering prices to swap from 3.55's top 4.56's.
On the Dana 30, jumping that high requires a change of ring carrier. My question is: If i go ahead and do a Limited slip like a Tru-Trac or a Air/ E-locker, does that negate the purchase of getting the different carrier? It seems odd that i the carrier size would have to change, but the TT or Air/ E locker carrier size is all the same?

n00g7

No. You still need the new carrier. There will be a different locker PN for 3.73 and higher, too.

WyoCherokee

Ok. so i still need a new carrier in addition to the tru-trac differential? it doesnt seem like there would be room for the carrier, the tru-trac and the ring. It was my understanding, the tru-trac would replace the carrier assembly.

n00g7

Okay, yes, with the tru-trac you don't need a new carrier or with an ARB.

I didn't read fully. If it was a lunchbox type locker you would need the new carrier.

Fred/N0AZZ

The only ones that you do not need one with is a "Full Case Locker" like ARB, Detroit Locker, OX, etc.


A ls unit is not the best choice for the front as having one wheel off the ground leaves you with a lot of slippage.

bryweb

On the Front Dana 30 front you need a 3.73 and up carrier, whether that is an open stock like carrier, or a full case carrier like ARB, Detroit, Eaton E-lock, OX, etc, you just need to order one carrier for the front.

If you are thinking of eventually upgrading to a full case locker like ARB, Detroit, Eaton (not a lunchbox locker like Sparton, Lokka, Aussie), you should do it now, as replacing to a full carrier later will require resetting up your new gears all over again... (Generally about a $300 labor charge), a lunch box locker you can do yourself at anytime (no gear setup required)

Fred/N0AZZ

He is correct on that it cost me $200 labor a differential to install gears and full case lockers no extra charge for it. With a full case locker its much stronger and quieter than the others. FYI

WyoCherokee

thats what i was looking for, thanks

pathdrummer

I have a 2000 Cherokee sport. it has Detroit lockers in the rear and Spartan lockers. I purchased the jeep with this setup 5 years ago. I really know nothing about lockers except this setup has been working well and this jeep sees a lot of miles each year. I have been told I should change the diff. oil with syn. oil and flush everything out. Also
the person that had this info did not know what I should flush it with or what weight oil I should put back into it. My other question is Syn. oil what should be used. Any help on this would be appreciated. Also I only have basic skills when it comes to repair work.

n00g7

Factory spec. I'd probably do 75-90 up front and 85-140 rear. Changing diff fluid is literally the easiest job ever, albeit a little time consuming for what it is. Look up a video on youtube.

toasterknight

I buy in a 5 gallon bucket so its 85-140 front and rear. One thing to be aware of is some traction devices reccomend avoiding synthetic or others require it. That's why I do a synthetic blend.

pathdrummer

Thank you, I will for sure do that.

n00g7

I looked up the spec for both lockers (I RTFM'd for him). Synthetic is fine, no friction modifiers, just the standard stuff like for open/open.

toasterknight

That would be convenient. My true track says no synthetic.

pathdrummer

Thank you everyone for this info. It will for sure make things go faster and better. I take it that the 85 140 is what I should use, in Synthetic? I am not sure what open/open means?