front leaf spring bolt spins
Hey everyone, Saturday I started my 3" rough country suspension lift. My brother and I completed the front, now I have to do the rear. I tried taking out the front leaf spring bolt on the drivers side, I can take out about an inch and a half then the bolt just spins. I used a fork looking tool and an air ratchet and pulled but no good. The bolt won't move out an hour of fighting it does nothing.
Any ideas?
I don't have access to a welder.
Any ideas?
I don't have access to a welder.
It sounds like the bolt is frozen to the metal sleeve in the bushing. Cut the bolt just inside of the spring box with a sawzall and drop the spring out.
The other scenario could be that the nutsert is spinning on the frame side. You may have to cut a window just below where the bolt enters the frame and put a wrench on it. This window can be welded back into place after the lift is done and after a new nut is welded in place of the spinning one.
I hope I explained that good enough, you have to visualize a little.
The other scenario could be that the nutsert is spinning on the frame side. You may have to cut a window just below where the bolt enters the frame and put a wrench on it. This window can be welded back into place after the lift is done and after a new nut is welded in place of the spinning one.
I hope I explained that good enough, you have to visualize a little.
It sounds like the bolt is frozen to the metal sleeve in the bushing. Cut the bolt just inside of the spring box with a sawzall and drop the spring out.
The other scenario could be that the nutsert is spinning on the frame side. You may have to cut a window just below where the bolt enters the frame and put a wrench on it. This window can be welded back into place after the lift is done and after a new nut is welded in place of the spinning one.
I hope I explained that good enough, you have to visualize a little.
The other scenario could be that the nutsert is spinning on the frame side. You may have to cut a window just below where the bolt enters the frame and put a wrench on it. This window can be welded back into place after the lift is done and after a new nut is welded in place of the spinning one.
I hope I explained that good enough, you have to visualize a little.
I don't fully understand the first paragraph. I completely understand the second. I'm not sure if the tac weld on the nut broke or not because I'm able to hit the bolt in some and then air ratchet the bolt back in. So wouldn't the nut not be free spinning?
Your right, the nut is okay then. The problem is the bolt is frozen to the metal sleeve inside the bushing and not coming out any further. You need to cut the bolt inside of the spring box, between the spring and the box. Then you will be able to get the spring out. You will need a new spring bushing and bolt, that is all. Antisieze that sucker when you put it back.
Your right, the nut is okay then. The problem is the bolt is frozen to the metal sleeve inside the bushing and not coming out any further. You need to cut the bolt inside of the spring box, between the spring and the box. Then you will be able to get the spring out. You will need a new spring bushing and bolt, that is all. Antisieze that sucker when you put it back.
Okay the spring box or spring hanger is the area that the front of the spring sits into, the cavity.
Yes you have new bushings and if you will notice there is a metal sleeve inside of the new bushings. That sleeve is what your old spring bolt is stuck to and will not come out.
Yes you have new bushings and if you will notice there is a metal sleeve inside of the new bushings. That sleeve is what your old spring bolt is stuck to and will not come out.
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I had the same problem but was able to remove the bolts using a fork to put pressure on the bolt as they backed out. Otherwise cutting a small window into the spring hanger is the answer. Team cherokee has oem bolts, rock auto has husky bolts with a nylock, or you can get the hardware locally.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,173
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
Ummm... no... no it isn't.
Back em all the way out of the nut, even if they won't come out of the sleeve, as long as they're out of the nut, you're fine. It'll look like it's bending the bracket, don't worry about it. Back it all the way out of the nut, and cut it on both sides of the leaf spring with a 4.5" angle grinder and cutoff wheel. You will have to get new bolts as mentioned. I had to do the same thing on both sides of mine. If you don't back it all the way out of the nut or the nut brakes, you can go through the floorboard to get to it WITHOUT cutting your unibody frame. There is a link around here somewhere with the propper measurements if that be the case.
Back em all the way out of the nut, even if they won't come out of the sleeve, as long as they're out of the nut, you're fine. It'll look like it's bending the bracket, don't worry about it. Back it all the way out of the nut, and cut it on both sides of the leaf spring with a 4.5" angle grinder and cutoff wheel. You will have to get new bolts as mentioned. I had to do the same thing on both sides of mine. If you don't back it all the way out of the nut or the nut brakes, you can go through the floorboard to get to it WITHOUT cutting your unibody frame. There is a link around here somewhere with the propper measurements if that be the case.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,173
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Ohio
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
it's a 14mm - 2.00 pitch bolt, I can't remember the length, but I know I wasn't able to find them anywhere but the dealership.
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 51
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From: Hicksville, NY
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I wound up having the same problem when I did my lift this past week. I cut the bolt out with a hacksaw and had to re-tap the first half thread of the nut with a M14-2 thread tap from spinning the bolt in place with pressure on it.
I got the replacement bolts from CSE Offroad online. The part number is 34202118. I moved the bolt from the rear to the front since it is the same bolt and then used a M14-2.0x130mm bolt in the shackle until the new bolt gets here tomorrow.
I got the replacement bolts from CSE Offroad online. The part number is 34202118. I moved the bolt from the rear to the front since it is the same bolt and then used a M14-2.0x130mm bolt in the shackle until the new bolt gets here tomorrow.


