Frame Stiffening thread?
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Frame Stiffening thread?
Who's got ideas or anything, pictures, tutorials, theories, about frame stiffening?
I personally don't have anything (thus, why i'm making this thread). Who's got some ideas for us?
I personally don't have anything (thus, why i'm making this thread). Who's got some ideas for us?
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
pretty broad spectrum but I'll share what I've got
this is what I'm cooking up now
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/pl...-inner-199156/
I currently like welding plates to the uniframe with a mig using 0.030 wire.
1/8" will work for most near any frame plating and it's pretty much all I use. but I am running ruffstuff 3/16 in the middle
theres a million and one ways to plate the frame. best way to do it is plate front to back on at least 3 sides of the frame, 6-10pt roll cage, and rock sliders that tie into the cage and into the uniframe. although that's pretty unreasonable for most people.
the best upgrade I've ever done as far as bracing/stiffening goes was a good track bar brace. I recommend it for everyone
here's my favorite thread describing how to weld to the uniframe
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/9750902-post14.html
this is what I'm cooking up now
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/pl...-inner-199156/
I currently like welding plates to the uniframe with a mig using 0.030 wire.
1/8" will work for most near any frame plating and it's pretty much all I use. but I am running ruffstuff 3/16 in the middle
theres a million and one ways to plate the frame. best way to do it is plate front to back on at least 3 sides of the frame, 6-10pt roll cage, and rock sliders that tie into the cage and into the uniframe. although that's pretty unreasonable for most people.
the best upgrade I've ever done as far as bracing/stiffening goes was a good track bar brace. I recommend it for everyone
here's my favorite thread describing how to weld to the uniframe
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/9750902-post14.html
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
also there is a TOTM on frame stiffening. but it could use a good update. maybe we can get some good info in this thread then merge it into the TOTM
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/to...103014/index4/
also, plug welds are important. I always make sure to drill a couple into whatever plate I'm making
(they may not look strategically placed but they are) they are less than 1/2" big
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/to...103014/index4/
also, plug welds are important. I always make sure to drill a couple into whatever plate I'm making
(they may not look strategically placed but they are) they are less than 1/2" big
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I'm curious... What's the strategy there?
And, i remember reading that thread months ago, and still to this day don't trust myself enough to do it yet, hahaha. I should've kept the jeep chassis i had in the backyard and practiced welding to the frame..
Does anyone do any triangular supporting systems? Like, next to each side of the frame rail's to exterior side of the jeep?
I am interested, since i'm still sketched on wheeling without a hatch/doors, and refuse to even drive without doors in fear of tweaking the frame(thus, why want to frame stiffen...
hell, i've wanted to stiffen the frame either way)
And, i remember reading that thread months ago, and still to this day don't trust myself enough to do it yet, hahaha. I should've kept the jeep chassis i had in the backyard and practiced welding to the frame..
Does anyone do any triangular supporting systems? Like, next to each side of the frame rail's to exterior side of the jeep?
I am interested, since i'm still sketched on wheeling without a hatch/doors, and refuse to even drive without doors in fear of tweaking the frame(thus, why want to frame stiffen...
hell, i've wanted to stiffen the frame either way)
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Year: 93 2 door
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the idea is that you're adding more points of attachment that spread the load and also make them more of 1 solid piece as opposed to simply having a frame plate welded on top of a uniframe. you don't need a million of them like the HDO plates (although it certainly doesnt hurt).
your entire jeep is held together by spot welds. only makes sense to keep applying the same logic
triangles off the frame? say what now? like tie ins going from a frame rail to a rock slider? I'm missing the concept
yeah you should've kept a spare chassis to practice on. the only way to get good at this is to practice. a lot. I recommend practicing (I mean helping) on your friends uniframes first hahaha
your entire jeep is held together by spot welds. only makes sense to keep applying the same logic
triangles off the frame? say what now? like tie ins going from a frame rail to a rock slider? I'm missing the concept
yeah you should've kept a spare chassis to practice on. the only way to get good at this is to practice. a lot. I recommend practicing (I mean helping) on your friends uniframes first hahaha
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the idea is that you're adding more points of attachment that spread the load and also make them more of 1 solid piece as opposed to simply having a frame plate welded on top of a uniframe. you don't need a million of them like the HDO plates (although it certainly doesnt hurt).
your entire jeep is held together by spot welds. only makes sense to keep applying the same logic
triangles off the frame? say what now? like tie ins going from a frame rail to a rock slider? I'm missing the concept
yeah you should've kept a spare chassis to practice on. the only way to get good at this is to practice. a lot. I recommend practicing (I mean helping) on your friends uniframes first hahaha
your entire jeep is held together by spot welds. only makes sense to keep applying the same logic
triangles off the frame? say what now? like tie ins going from a frame rail to a rock slider? I'm missing the concept
yeah you should've kept a spare chassis to practice on. the only way to get good at this is to practice. a lot. I recommend practicing (I mean helping) on your friends uniframes first hahaha
And, good point, i didn't think about that.
But yeah. I didn't expect to really be thinking about doing this though, which sucked. Oh well, next Jeep i part out or come across, will have a stern practicing on.
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#8
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Year: 93 2 door
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Engine: 4.0
Can you draw a picture of what you're thinking? Or use the paint app on a computer
Yeah I started welding 2 years ago and I just now am able to put decent welds on a uniframe. If you've been welding a couple years you'll probably catch on quick
Yeah I started welding 2 years ago and I just now am able to put decent welds on a uniframe. If you've been welding a couple years you'll probably catch on quick
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And, there's the issue-- I haven't been welding for very long at all, lol. But honestly, let's face it, when i have enough money to do this for real, and get the proper equipment for it all, i bet i'll have enough experience to do generally pretty well with some unibody welding.
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Engine: 4.0L
To the OP. have you seem the gap and space between the doors and body? The doors are not structural at keeping the body straight. You can run doorless and be perfectly fine(except if you're T-boned...lol) the hatch I'm not sure about
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Year: 1999
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I have some pictures in my build thread from when we repaired the frame and plated it with ruff stuffs stiffeners. Probably one of the best things we've done to it. Theres a write up on this forum we used which was very helpful
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/la...179327/index5/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/la...179327/index5/
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Year: 93 2 door
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this, opposed to anything actually. this is the best way to do it. the floor doesn't hold much structural integrity (granted, something is usually better than nothing). I dont see floor gussets being too necessary. (if that's what you're talking about)
Last edited by Atmos; 09-24-2014 at 09:50 AM.
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I think what he means is like what the ruffstuff uniframe stiffeners lip that connects to the floor board. But instead if a lip connecting the frame to flour board, a series if triangle that would help spread the load
To the OP. have you seem the gap and space between the doors and body? The doors are not structural at keeping the body straight. You can run doorless and be perfectly fine(except if you're T-boned...lol) the hatch I'm not sure about
To the OP. have you seem the gap and space between the doors and body? The doors are not structural at keeping the body straight. You can run doorless and be perfectly fine(except if you're T-boned...lol) the hatch I'm not sure about
And, i mean, better safe than sorry? Like, riding on the roads isn't a HUGE concern, but it's mainly the whole offroading part that gets me. All it takes is once, right?
Good man.
no, but in all seriousness, This is probably the better way opposed to the idea my brother's friend threw out there.
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