180,000 miles and a turbo , cylinder pressure is increased considerably with a turbo, fresh engines struggle to control blowby . if you attempt to salvage this engine I would remove the turbo as it will compound the problem of getting the rings to seal .
IMHO I would just rebuild the engine , cut your losses and do the job once, it's cheaper in the long run , Good luck sir !!

 

I was making a pull and it wasn't till after I let off and got to the light when I noticed it runnier rough like a cylinder wasn't firing , it had similar issue where it would do the same symptom due to a loose injector wire. This time it also blew vapor straight out of the exhaust. Leading me to a head gasket.

And update on the jeep though , I took some 600 grit paper to the cylinder and got astonishing results , looks and feels like the other cylinders now. Still some slight discoloration in the metal but at least now I feel better about putting it together.. I wanna say what made it go was from not running the high test like I always did , I started putting in 89 rather than 93 , and I'd imagine it was too much boost for that octane level .

 

I've only got about $700 in the whole turbo kit /build using all eBay stuff , this project has been a budget build and before this misshap I've had awesome results, I've already put close to 5,000 miles on the whole setup. I would love to make this thing a full on stroker turbo street machine , unfortunately right now I just can't allow my self to spend that kind of money on it. I won't be removing the kit but I will be turning the boost down too probably 3-4psi or may just have the intake pipe unconnected to see how it runs. I will be doing a compression test after its put back together and then again after a few hundred miles (if it makes it that far) to see if that cylinder is getting weaker or not. Other than that my plans with this jeep are done , I found a way to make some nice decent power out of it and surprised a lot of Honda's and mustangs lol. All in all I'm happy with the results.

 

Thanks again everyone for all the help and advice! I'll have another update shortly on how this thing runs emerging is all back together. And sorry about some of the grammar errors, I'm suing my phone to post these and it gets all wonky whenever I backspace ,spitting out different words than I planned to type lol .

Thanks again Tony

 

From looking at your pics the problem was not boost but corrosion. There is no outward force on the gasket. It would be really nice to rebuild it but I would guess the 1200-2500 bucks to do it is out of the question. Do change the oil and a high quality coolant will get you going again as good as it was before.

Ron

 

What size is your turbo, injectors, and what method of tuning are you using?

 

Its a 52/56mm t3 hybrid turbo, 39lb injectors using a Apexi Safc fuel tuner running open loop, tuned by myself.

 

just for fun you might check the ring gap in the cylinders. I'm more curious than anything, I highly doubt you have an issue. you'd know if you have a blowby problem as I assume you keep an eye on plugs and oil consumption.

what kind of boost was it seeing beforehand? power estimate?

 

It was at 10-12 psi, I'd say close to 300hp at the crank with more torquef or sure than hp I was going to get it dynoed but had to cancel due to this little incident. The only blow by it had was from the crappy eBay turbos leaky seals. It never smoked during hard pulls, asked a buddy to follow behind while I did the pull.

 

Water/meth is injected into a running engine in small quantities & as a mist or fine stream , so they evaporate/burn with the combustion event. In the case of the your engine, this was not injected in small quantities during the burn, but after the engine was shut down. So, the water evaporated in the hot cylinder, and the impurities were left behind, so the next time you started the engine up, those impurities got rubbed against the cylinder wall by the rings....this happens over & over, till you get what you got. I did see carbon on that cylinder too, on top of the piston.


And water/meth helps clean the cylinder due to the way they burn & evaporate.

 

Well you did ask for advice so here it is. MLS head gasket, I like cometic. Headstuds. And invest in a tuner that can directly control injectors. 93 octane all the time. You definitely have an interesting build with the mid turbo and if you like it that's what counts. Certainly a budget build, but the one area that cannot be skimped no matter how cheap you want to go is fuel mgmt. Bad tunes will destroy fully built engines or stock internals with ebay turbos.

 

Hey guys, so I got the jeep all back together. Let it run for about 20mins to get the rest of the coolant out of the cylinders as it was still smoking white out of the exhaust. Took it around and the jeep no longer misses nor smokes white any more, apart from the turbos leaky seal on a startup. Also checked the oil and it looks nice and clear still no milkyness like it did.
I did change the serpentine belt however with a new one and now I can't even turn my a/c on with out at defining squeal as soon as you turn it on, its like so loud you have to cover your ears in the garage bad. So not sure whats up with that, I sprayed about 2 cans worth of wd-40 that would help some but as soon as it dryed up it would continue its crazy loud squeal. I noticed it would even do so sometimes on a start up, where if I revved it would help quicken the time it squealed and then it would stop, but not the case if A/C is on. Another thing I noticed is that the belt tends to have a sort of small hop to it while it does its rotations.

I have not taken it into boost yet as I want to take it on a longer drive and see how the temp is before I apply any heavy throttle inputs. All in all so far so good I guess I am still skeptical that this gasket may pop like the other did, but well have to see. Now on to that belt issue because its Prime time heat right now in south fl lol.

 

Yes a Full stand alone computer would be the way to go or even that split second unit would even be a great choice for this build. I had the chance to try that safc for $100 which is a steal compared to the other options, and to be honest it runs a safe air fuel ratio of 11:1 when wot through out the rev range, it was only on high boost where it would dip into the 12.6-.8 range towards the top rev range, most likely maxxing out the pump those 39lb injectors are over kill and good up to 450hp. I watch that a/r gauge like a hawk when making pulls as I know how detrimental it is to the health of the engine. I think its just time for me to put my attention towards something that was made to go fast lol, but keep this as a cool daily driver that makes people scratch their heads as I go by, that will never get old lol.

 

Thank you for clearing that up for me.

 

I agree with Ron that the gasket corroded, I looks like from your pic that it corroded over time, IOWs, not a catastrophic failure that took place in an instant.
So, the question is why? Having the deck and head resurfaced would guarantee that it would not happen again.
Do a compression test on #1, I will bet you it's down around 90psi or lower.
Cly #1 gets the most frequency of temp fluctuation as the coolant hits #1 bore as it comes into the block.


I never apply anything to a belt, saturated belts will squeal.
Check your HB for failure.