When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am in the middle of a 0331 head swap and have decided to replace the exhaust manifold with the Banks Torque Tubes. Banks Torque Tubes
Notice how the holes are nice and round? I have a 2000 XJ so I am worried that this wont fit my head as the exhaust holes are more of a rounded square shape... Promaxx 4.0 Cylinder Head
I have 2 gaskets for this project. I bought the Victor Reinz head gasket kit that include all kinds of extra gaskets for the top half of the 4.0. The MLS gasket is what came with the VR kit and the composite gasket came with the torque tubes.
Here is a photo of the composite gasket on top of the MLS showing the hole size difference.
Which gasket would you use? Should I not use this exhaust manifold since the holes are larger? I got a good deal on the Banks ($390) and I would hate to have to return it.
What do you guys think? Pros and cons to each one?
someone else will probably chime in, but i would use the gasket that came with the header, it covers the hole completely. having a bigger opening isn't an issue, having it too small would because then the gasket would not sit flush against the head that that would be a problem
The Victor reinz mls gasket matches the head ports perfectly. If I use the composite gasket that came with the header, there will be more of the face of the cylinder head exposed to exhaust...
If I use the mls gasket, I worry the portion of the gasket that isn't directly against the header flange won't be tight...
There may not be a right or wrong answer here.
Any one else have any thoughts?
I have faced this problem over the years on race engines and personally I would use the gasket that came with the headers.
But with a stock engine and that head your best bet is to call Banks tech support and ask them about it, I'm sure they can advise you on the proper one for that head.
On my banks for the 2000 I used the one that came with the headers..
I also spayed the gasket with Permatex Copper Spray..
This stuff works great if applied correctly.
The big issue was bolts 1,2,3..small hands or swivel ratchet wrench like I used.
When I called Banks they said use the gasket that came with the header..
When I called a second time about a question,the new help desk person wasn't sure and put me on hold for a long time.. I hung up and went with the guys advice on the first call.. all has been good for a few years now.. I also had to torque them again after a short drive and cool down, did that twice.. Then one more time after about a week just to check... all has been great.
Last edited by Dumajones; Jan 22, 2017 at 01:27 PM.
On my banks for the 2000 I used the one that came with the headers..
I also spayed the gasket with Permatex Copper Spray..
This stuff works great if applied correctly.
The big issue was bolts 1,2,3..small hands or swivel ratchet wrench like I used.
When I called Banks they said use the gasket that came with the header..
When I called a second time about a question,the new help desk person wasn't sure and put me on hold for a long time.. I hung up and went with the guys advice on the first call.. all has been good for a few years now.. I also had to torque them again after a short drive and cool down, did that twice.. Then one more time after about a week just to check... all has been great.
This is all excellent info from one who knows and has installed one, I would suggest that you follow his directions fully and .......
"To torque them again after a short drive and cool down, did that twice.. Then one more time after about a week just to check." They will loosen unless you use header bolts with locks built-into them.
I got a similar header from Jegs, (speed tech?) and had a nightmare with the fiber gasket.
I don't know if you've measured the flange thickness compared to the intake but I had to weld little 'nubs' on the washers to take up the gap because they were NOT the same thickness and just thought that the pivoting washer would take up the slack.
I used the outer 2 holes to just 'hold' the header while I bolted the header and intake together (on while the motor was out on stand) Well, I didn't notice that the two outer ones that I just did finger tight, held it enough to make a slight ripple in the gasket between 4-5 and during break in burnt through and had to take it all apart and put in the metal one.
Let me just say that while it's in the jeep, it's going to make you want to shoot something!
If I were do do it again, I'd uses extra long studs instead of the stock bolts. (I think there might be 2 that will get REALLY close to the primary pipes)
Yes, I know that they're not EXACTLY the same headers but look pretty much the same. The two cats and down pipes will be in the way unless you remove them prior to getting your hands in there.
I ended up using a coat hanger to hold the bolt up in the hole while I used my finger tips to "try" and start turning.
I hope it goes better for you, but I'd use the metal gasket. That's what I ended up using and took care of the leaks.
E
I am currently performing this upgrade as well, I am using the gasket that came with the kit. I noticed a couple of responses and would appreciate some feedback as well, one was about the swivel washers and the difference in the intake to exhaust manifold; will the swivel work?, the difference in mine is about 1/32" in most areas and up to 1/16" in a few others, I noticed that the intake flange had areas where it looks as if the washer seated in well past the flange surface. Also, are there any tips for the Dual cat Down Pipe installation, I got the pipe from OMIX ADA and it is a single pipe (with dual CAT's) to the other CAT, I have it up and in, just have to pick up some Exhaust crush seal gaskets for the pipe to header final install. I appreciate any comments.