I did the 231/D300 with the Box-4-Rocks kit. kit went together very easy and I absolutely LOVE the crawl ratio, did the shift rails so I can do front digs; the gearing and options are great!!!

The downside is/are: had to cut the floor to get the shifters to work (should've probably gone with cable setup), had to drill & tap a new filler hole in the D300 'cause mine is now upside down to match up to the driver's drop on the D60 front axle, which meant I had to bend some access under the driver's seat to get everything to fit properly, it is hard to keep the seal between the block-off plate and the 231 from leaking a bit, and had to fab a trasnmission mount for the d300. The whole thing done is only about an inch longer than the original 231 (when it was whole).

If I had to do it all again - I would order an Atlas II with the cable shifters and be done.

 

I agree. The hardest thing is making the linkage work. The rest is just bolts. You have to have some fabrication skills for either option. With the 231/231 option, you need to be able to do some floor board work at the minimum. The other rout with a 231/300 takes a 300 flip kit, or you have to run it upside down unless you are going to swap some other running gear in also. The Atlas, or if you want dual range the Stak 3 speed is the best option. The Atlas 4 speed is fun, but takes some floorboard work for that one on the AW4. But with any of those options, you have to get creative with the linkage to make it work properly. I managed it, but it took me a week to get it right.

 

ok you raise a very good point.

i'm going to go with toyota t-cases. from what i read there gear drive. as you mentiond thats a good thing so. i need to direct my attention to finding more about that. .


i'll be back with some more questions

i appreciate this. if possible do you do this work regularly , if so it may be in my budget to pay to have this work done and get it all shipped back. work is deep with hrs right now. were are trying to crank out 177 air craft interiors i mill all these parts for the production floor. i cant see light at the end of the tunnel yet.

 

that pic alone makes me want to have it!

 

not all of toyotas cases are gear drive, they cut back the use of them mid 80s because they run a straight cut gear that is rather noisy but my bro [a yota guy] believes they continued to run them up till about '94 behind some of the 4bangers the case you would want would be the RF1A they are a top shift case though so you will have to cut up your trans tunnel and say good bye to your console if you have one, As for transmission you could grab the toyota R150.....it is an AX15 just a few tweaks to fit the toyota setup and has slightly higher 3rd and 5th gear i believe. With the toyota setup you dont neccesarily have to run dual cases you can get a crawl box from marlin crawler which essentially give you 2 separate sets of gears a hi[stock] and a low set which is what my brother runs in his yota and in low range, 4Lo, 1st gear this thing CRAWLS....hes also locked front and rear running 4.88s and 35s.

 

Toyota tcases are a right hand drop. To run one you will need a different front diff.

 

yes this is correct, that one went completely over my head there.

 

if you are talking doubled tcases axles should be considered too... hate to admit it but a toyota front diff would go well under the xj to match the tcases... price it all out first my buddys all run yotas doubled and it's not cheap even with a yota to start with... might just be more worth it to go atlas.....

 

yea my bro pieced his together through trades and used pieces so it was fairly cheap, otherwise it can be upwards of a few grand, and yes i have seen a few XJ with yota axles, they fit nicely.

 

The only main advantage I see to doing a front yota case is the ability to9 get 4.7 gears in it.. then do a 231 or a flipped 300 behind it. I know it can be done.. I have a buddy running a 23 spline forward shift to a d300.. only yota I ever saw do a front dig



to run the dodge 203 you have to clock it 90 degrees out so you can ge the most ground clearacne. I am still working on the design so I can use the stock mounting holes on the 203 and have a "foot" to mount to my x-member.

Down side to 203/d300 is heavy as hell

 

good point gents. but if i run a jeep ax15 with the toyota bell housing i can keep it diver side drop , so that puts me into dual 231's.

although as mentioned i guess i could go with a low gear set for my low gear. in the t-case and drive in a higher gear like 3rd or 4th , i just dont know how slow a 4:1 ratio is going to be. any input on that? i only plan to only run snow in this rig.

also if the 231 can have a set of lower gear int he t-case what site should i find these on. i keep digging up rebuild kits and sye's , theirs some thing to be said about knowing lingo and hot words. i think this is why a lot of newb's like me ask alot of the same questions at times.

 

I have a 3.8:1 in my Atlas. It is good for rocks and such, but too slow for trails and mud. It is about a 20 mph top speed. But I have to say that the dual speed tcase is the way to go. It gives you all the options.

 

ok well then i will try and serch up what i can tomorrow for that then. having the ability to do all would be nice. later i could get into building axles / swap

 

If your running a Toy trans then use the TOY t/case gear driven boxes. they are great, 4.7-1 kits are cheap compared to the jeep 4-1.... But either would work for a duals kit.

 

It is tought o beat a ty doubler setup with the 4.7 and a 2.8 setup. Lots of options.

The 231 231 is long.. and it has to be supported at the rear of the t-case... just like the rest of the doublers.. but definately important with the 231's.


Terra Flex is the only company I know of that sells a 4to1 kit, unless you get a rubicon t-case. Price on the 4to1 is over 1 grand and that is why I went 231/231.

I hade to have a front driveshaft lengthened 6" for the front, and a front driveshaft shortened 2" for the rear after I stretched my wheelbase 2"