Detroit locker in daily front axle anyone else running this
#31
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4L, 6 cylinder, 190 hp, 225 ft lp torque
#32
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hey Bryweb, you might find this tool useful. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
I was more interested if Fred/NOAZZ went 4.56 or 4.88 (or other), because I have 4.56 now, and want 4.88's but I hear the Ring and Pinion get much weaker at 4.88
Also so I can figure into the equation his gears with him running stock axles shafts and not blowing them up running 33's and Detroits front and back.
#33
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I decided on the 4.56's because of that very issue with the 4.88's, even with the 35" tires I now run at times (off road only) on bead locks at 5 psi. no problems really.
Like I said earlier I carry spare axles for everything but haven't had to use them. I am not one that beats on my XJ, I try to pick my lines and be easy on the skinny peddle. I wheel alone most of the time just the wife and I so at times when it looks really hard we will use the winch instead of breaking something. A lot of the time we are a long way from the nearest roadway or people so we take our time and enjoy.
Like I said earlier I carry spare axles for everything but haven't had to use them. I am not one that beats on my XJ, I try to pick my lines and be easy on the skinny peddle. I wheel alone most of the time just the wife and I so at times when it looks really hard we will use the winch instead of breaking something. A lot of the time we are a long way from the nearest roadway or people so we take our time and enjoy.
Last edited by Fred/N0AZZ; 08-31-2015 at 10:00 AM.
#34
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I appreciate it - that is one of the more sophisticated ones I have seen,
I was more interested if Fred/NOAZZ went 4.56 or 4.88 (or other), because I have 4.56 now, and want 4.88's but I hear the Ring and Pinion get much weaker at 4.88
Also so I can figure into the equation his gears with him running stock axles shafts and not blowing them up running 33's and Detroits front and back.
I was more interested if Fred/NOAZZ went 4.56 or 4.88 (or other), because I have 4.56 now, and want 4.88's but I hear the Ring and Pinion get much weaker at 4.88
Also so I can figure into the equation his gears with him running stock axles shafts and not blowing them up running 33's and Detroits front and back.
they now offer a 5.13 dana 30 ring and pinion. it's not worth it do go from a 4.56 to 4.88 (cost wise). the 4.88 pinion is smaller but you shouldn't be breaking it on 33's
http://www.gotshocker.com/product.php?productid=25887
#35
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
they now offer a 5.13 dana 30 ring and pinion. it's not worth it do go from a 4.56 to 4.88 (cost wise). the 4.88 pinion is smaller but you shouldn't be breaking it on 33's
http://www.gotshocker.com/product.php?productid=25887
http://www.gotshocker.com/product.php?productid=25887
My daughter's Cherokee is on 33's and still stock 3.55 gears so she would end up with my current axles - plus I do my own gears so its much cheaper.
I am finishing up Phase 1 on my Jeep, and Phase 2 is a out a ways, Phase 2: Will be better axles, roll bar, and 37's
I am trying to decide what to do.
- Take a spare set of axles (Dana30HP/8.25) I have and build them with Alloy Axles (RCV's up front in a perfect world), truss the front, and run Detroits F & R or some sort of select-able locker front, rear, or F & R - But I feel I am limited to 4.56 or I would be concerned about blowing a 4.88 ring and pinion.
- Or put a 14 bolt shaved in the rear, and put a Dana 60 up front and run 5.13 or deeper
- Or put a 14 bolt shaved in the rear, and put an aftermarket Dana 44 Front like the G2 axle.
I guess once I get my jeep on the road I will see how I feel about 35's and 4.56 gears... also see how reliable it is, and see If I still have a desire for 37's. and go from there.
#36
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I am on 35's and current axles have 4.56 (just finishing jeep project) welded rear w/ZJ discs, lokka front, stock shafts, It was going to be 33's then I found a deal on a set of 35's so my daughter's jeep got my Goodyear MTR 33's
My daughter's Cherokee is on 33's and still stock 3.55 gears so she would end up with my current axles - plus I do my own gears so its much cheaper.
I am finishing up Phase 1 on my Jeep, and Phase 2 is a out a ways, Phase 2: Will be better axles, roll bar, and 37's
I am trying to decide what to do.
My daughter's Cherokee is on 33's and still stock 3.55 gears so she would end up with my current axles - plus I do my own gears so its much cheaper.
I am finishing up Phase 1 on my Jeep, and Phase 2 is a out a ways, Phase 2: Will be better axles, roll bar, and 37's
I am trying to decide what to do.
- Take a spare set of axles (Dana30HP/8.25) I have and build them with Alloy Axles (RCV's up front in a perfect world), truss the front, and run Detroits F & R or some sort of select-able locker front, rear, or F & R - But I feel I am limited to 4.56 or I would be concerned about blowing a 4.88 ring and pinion.
- Or put a 14 bolt shaved in the rear, and put a Dana 60 up front and run 5.13 or deeper
- Or put a 14 bolt shaved in the rear, and put an aftermarket Dana 44 Front like the G2 axle.
definitely don't try to build a 30/8.25 combo for 37" tires if you plan to go rock crawling. that front end will be a time bomb. a shaved 14 bolt and 60 combo serves really well on 37's as long as you keep the back spacing on your rims a bit on the narrow side and I definitely recommend 5.38's. that's what I run, but it's a damned heavy setup.
If you want to spend money, build a spidertrax 9, ruffstuff 9, gearworks, dynatrac or even rockjock housing. but none of those are really necessary and they'll be upwards of 7-10k. I'd stay away from that G2 simply because their are better options. if you don't know what you want the best thing to do is mull it over for a year or so and take your time
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