Dana 44 build thoughts and ideas
#1
MJ>XJ
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
picked up a cast wedge Dana 44 from lowrange this weekend (thanks by the way)
thinking up ideas to build it for the MJ and wondering if anyone sees this idea working or not for me...
cutting the wedges off... sleeving the tube probly on the inside... cut to the same width as the dana 30... then cutting my dana 30 inner C's off with my WJ knuckles and steering... shaft ideas and configurations?
im thinking maybe cutting tubes to take JK 44's inner shafts and dana 30 outers?
i guess thats like a hybrid 44 but all I can find for write ups is billa vistas on the dana 30 with 44 outers...
Then I'd run 760's and it should give me all I want and 5x4.5 still with high steer..
thinking up ideas to build it for the MJ and wondering if anyone sees this idea working or not for me...
cutting the wedges off... sleeving the tube probly on the inside... cut to the same width as the dana 30... then cutting my dana 30 inner C's off with my WJ knuckles and steering... shaft ideas and configurations?
im thinking maybe cutting tubes to take JK 44's inner shafts and dana 30 outers?
i guess thats like a hybrid 44 but all I can find for write ups is billa vistas on the dana 30 with 44 outers...
Then I'd run 760's and it should give me all I want and 5x4.5 still with high steer..
Last edited by huntingman2706217; 10-01-2012 at 10:55 AM.
#6
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Year: 1997 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO JASPER MOTOR
Why would you wanna go through all the trouble just curious? I'd leave it the same width it is and just make it fit that way. You want to run unit bearings as opposed to lock outs and taper bearings?
#7
too much work for me.
u joint size is the same, just make sure it is centered between the ball joints. IMO the main benefit to having a 44 over a 30 is real wheel bearings and locking hubs anyway, i would put 44 outers on a 30 first.
Or just retube the 44 altogether, the thing is leaf sprung 44's exist, and welded wedge 44's exist, sure they can be a bit more money and harder to find, but whats an extra hundred bucks and a little more classified searching? well worth it IMO.
u joint size is the same, just make sure it is centered between the ball joints. IMO the main benefit to having a 44 over a 30 is real wheel bearings and locking hubs anyway, i would put 44 outers on a 30 first.
Or just retube the 44 altogether, the thing is leaf sprung 44's exist, and welded wedge 44's exist, sure they can be a bit more money and harder to find, but whats an extra hundred bucks and a little more classified searching? well worth it IMO.
Last edited by ktmracer419; 10-01-2012 at 11:45 AM.
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#8
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Year: 1997 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO JASPER MOTOR
Originally Posted by ktmracer419
too much work for me.
u joint size is the same, just make sure it is centered between the ball joints. IMO the main benefit to having a 44 over a 30 is real wheel bearings and locking hubs anyway, i would put 44 outers on a 30 first.
Or just retube the 44 altogether, the thing is leaf sprung 44's exist, and welded wedge 44's exist, sure they can be a bit more money and harder to find, but whats an extra hundred bucks and a little more classified searching? well worth it IMO.
u joint size is the same, just make sure it is centered between the ball joints. IMO the main benefit to having a 44 over a 30 is real wheel bearings and locking hubs anyway, i would put 44 outers on a 30 first.
Or just retube the 44 altogether, the thing is leaf sprung 44's exist, and welded wedge 44's exist, sure they can be a bit more money and harder to find, but whats an extra hundred bucks and a little more classified searching? well worth it IMO.
#9
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, bolt ons for days...
too much work for me.
u joint size is the same, just make sure it is centered between the ball joints. IMO the main benefit to having a 44 over a 30 is real wheel bearings and locking hubs anyway, i would put 44 outers on a 30 first.
Or just retube the 44 altogether, the thing is leaf sprung 44's exist, and welded wedge 44's exist, sure they can be a bit more money and harder to find, but whats an extra hundred bucks and a little more classified searching? well worth it IMO.
u joint size is the same, just make sure it is centered between the ball joints. IMO the main benefit to having a 44 over a 30 is real wheel bearings and locking hubs anyway, i would put 44 outers on a 30 first.
Or just retube the 44 altogether, the thing is leaf sprung 44's exist, and welded wedge 44's exist, sure they can be a bit more money and harder to find, but whats an extra hundred bucks and a little more classified searching? well worth it IMO.
#10
MJ>XJ
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
I've owned 2 or 3 weld on versions... Just looking for something different... Only running 35's and ive already got this stuff... Just trying ideas on what I may can do with this 44...
Oh and I don't want full widths is my main thing... Stock looking but stronger... Just somethin different though...
My dana 30 now is slightly built already with the WJ knuckles and 297 shafts.... 4.10's...
Oh and I don't want full widths is my main thing... Stock looking but stronger... Just somethin different though...
My dana 30 now is slightly built already with the WJ knuckles and 297 shafts.... 4.10's...
#15
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i wouldn't cut those cast wedges, there is no steel in there, it's all just cast and the tubes are on each side of the cast section.
i would either just use the cast wedges and ford radius arms, built as long arms or just retube the whole axle.
i have the same axle in my garage that i'm contemplating on using.
i would either just use the cast wedges and ford radius arms, built as long arms or just retube the whole axle.
i have the same axle in my garage that i'm contemplating on using.