Reviews are frequently done by people who haven't even installed the product yet but think it looks awesome. Those are also prone to cracking due to the all aluminum construction. Those super thick ones seem more pointed to rock crawlers running triple electric fans. Considering most factory radiators run 12-15 years, I'm a fan of just putting in a fresh one and running another 12-15 years.
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Yup. No need to upgrade on the average jeep
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
The problem with most 3-row is the coolant passages are considerably smaller compared to 1 and 2 row.
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Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
The faster a fluid travels through a radiator, the less lime it has to give up it's heat.
2 Row FTW!
I have found everyone of these to be true and run a stock one from AutoZone <$100 with lifetime warranty my son has one also. I can wheel on some steep rough trails in 4L 90* heat with the AC on and never overheated so far in 3 yrs (all new cooling sys).
I have found everyone of these to be true and run a stock one from AutoZone <$100 with lifetime warranty my son has one also. I can wheel on some steep rough trails in 4L 90* heat with the AC on and never overheated so far in 3 yrs (all new cooling sys).
Got mines from advance, with coupons i got hoses as we all for $100 iirc. Changed out the radiator and hoses, popped in some fresh peak green concentrated coolant with distilled water mix and my jeep run just under the 210 notch during 90* summer driving with the AC on.
Now for people that will never see freezing weather, you can make coolant that 65% water and 35% coolant since coolant is only for freezing. Its the water that helps with the temps
The faster a fluid travels through a radiator, the less lime it has to give up it's heat.
2 Row FTW!
For the record, this is not true. Heat transfer does not vary by flow rate. If you increase flow (GPM) the temp drop across the radiator decreases (deltaT), but total heat rejected stays the same.
Heat transferred = BTUH rejected = 500 x (deltaT) x GPM
I've been in the HVAC biz. for over 20 years, this is not my first rodeo. If fluid does not stay in a heat exchanger long enough it won't give up enough heat. Proper flow rate is critical to any heat transfer system.
hence why system are built with a certain size condenser coils so that maximum contact is made so the fan can transfer the heat off the coils to the air?!
If flow rate cannot varied then the heat exchanger must be properly sized to handle the heat load.
Now throw Variable Frequency Drives into the mix and everything changes.
If flow rate cannot varied then the heat exchanger must be properly sized to handle the heat load. Now throw Variable Frequency Drives into the mix and everything changes. But I digress....
Got mines from advance, with coupons i got hoses as we all for $100 iirc. Changed out the radiator and hoses, popped in some fresh peak green concentrated coolant with distilled water mix and my jeep run just under the 210 notch during 90* summer driving with the AC on.
Now for people that will never see freezing weather, you can make coolant that 65% water and 35% coolant since coolant is only for freezing. Its the water that helps with the temps
Only one thing not true about coolant its not just to keep the water from freezing, also very important is that its a lubricant for the water pump.
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Originally Posted by Mtnman90
For the record, this is not true. Heat transfer does not vary by flow rate. If you increase flow (GPM) the temp drop across the radiator decreases (deltaT), but total heat rejected stays the same.
Heat transferred = BTUH rejected = 500 x (deltaT) x GPM
This may look good to you on paper but I can apply to real world applications of racing engines. I run Dart blocks designed for thermostats like a stock block, but never ran in racing. I run large aluminum race radiators and instead of thermostats we have to run restrictor rings in there place to reduce flow and keep water in radiator longer. I run CSI electric water pumps (high flow) and have to adjust the rings for the proper temps.
If left wide open runs way to hot because of the flow being to great.
Only one thing not true about coolant its not just to keep the water from freezing, also very important is that its a lubricant for the water pump. This may look good to you on paper but I can apply to real world applications of racing engines. I run Dart blocks designed for thermostats like a stock block, but never ran in racing. I run large aluminum race radiators and instead of thermostats we have to run restrictor rings in there place to reduce flow and keep water in radiator longer. I run CSI electric water pumps (high flow) and have to adjust the rings for the proper temps. If left wide open runs way to hot because of the flow being to great.
That is true, thats for the correction. I believe thats why its specified to do 65-35 and not more water. Plus water can rust things out too i believe.
Now for people that will never see freezing weather, you can make coolant that 65% water and 35% coolant since coolant is only for freezing. Its the water that helps with the temps
Not only does the coolant include lubricant for the water pump, it also boils at a higher temperature than water. Raising the boiling point (keeping the coolant in a liquid state) improves heat transfer and is necessary to keep the cooling system operating efficiently and effectively. It's called "coolant" for a reason.
Not only does the coolant include lubricant for the water pump, it also boils at a higher temperature than water. Raising the boiling point (keeping the coolant in a liquid state) improves heat transfer and is necessary to keep the cooling system operating efficiently and effectively. It's called "coolant" for a reason.
The pressure of the system also raises the boiling point.
If flow rate cannot varied then the heat exchanger must be properly sized to handle the heat load.
Now throw Variable Frequency Drives into the mix and everything changes.
