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couple ?'s (Spring hop and t-case drop)

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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 09:06 AM
  #1  
landtortise's Avatar
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From: Shoshone, ID
Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0 h.o
Default couple ?'s (Spring hop and t-case drop)

So I recently aquired a '94 xj it has a 4.0 ho and an ax15 trans. It has a 4-5" lift and 33's. I have noticed when I let the clutch out I am getting a lot of spring hop I know it has lift springs and an add a leaf. I assume it's a 3.5" lift then 1" pucks up front and an aal in the rear. Amyway i can't see anything that's broke I do know my pinion and shackle angle suck I am just trying to figure out what is causing it.

that's issue number one. Issue number 2.

the PO has put on a crossmember drop kit. but failed to hook up the transfer case. I have all the parts and assume it's not hooked up because the linkage is too short am I correct? What needs to be done to get the 4 wd working again?

thanks in advance for your help.
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 10:50 AM
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From: S.E. Tx
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Problem 1: It seems you need to get under there and find out what you opinion angle is. As far as what it should be, i wish i could tell you. After my 4.5" my rear axle required 6° shims, i'm guessing yours needs some shimming to be at the correct angle.

Problem 2: Are you saying the shift linkage isn't hooked up? How big is the drop kit? There are numerous drop kits out there, with the biggest i've seen being 1 1/2" iirc. Mine has a 3/4" even. I've never heard of the linkage not being long enough to compensate. Hopefully it wasn't a way to nullify a serious problem in the t-case. First thing is to again get under there and hook it up.
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 10:56 AM
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From: Shoshone, ID
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The tcase works when put in gear manually by hand the drop is probably 1" i havent climbed under it to see if it is too short or anything. The pinion angle is not much almost flat i assume that this is my problem but im not.sure
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 12:13 PM
  #4  
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From: Shoshone, ID
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my initial thought on the spring hop is to ditch the aal's and go with a drop shackle. that would correct my shackle angle and my pinion angle.
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Old Sep 22, 2012 | 06:36 PM
  #5  
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Anyone have anythoughts on this i thought mayve motor mounts so i replaced them and the trans mount checked all bolts and i am still getting the hop or shudder when i let the clutch out
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Old Sep 22, 2012 | 06:55 PM
  #6  
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i have a stick trans and i think the problem your having in the words of christopher walkin . we need more cowbell.
.i had a friend who would say that saying when i was being a sissy and not giving enough gas to do something . give it more throtle. im lifted 8in with 35s on 456 gears and mine will spin tire like a mother on pavement with no hop ect.just gota get a tad more frisky with the ol skinny pedal. in all seriousness i have no good advice. the stick trans by nature will generally delivery the torque more violently than automatic. worn out springs and pooor quality shocks could be playing a role in axle wrap,

Axle wrap occurs when the rotational force of the tires causes the axle housing to twist and rotate. It’s most noticeable during hard acceleration from a standing start and on hill climbs while accelerating. This rotation of the axle housing forces the springs to bend into and S-shape. When the axle housing rotates far enough, two things happen: The spring force tries to push the housing in the opposite direction, and the U-joint attempts to make a straight line between the axle-assembly yoke and driveshaft. These forces cause the tires to loose traction, and “jump”, or “hop”. Once the traction is lost, the leaf springs snap back into their original position. This happens over and over until the truck either gains better traction or the drive reduces torque input by letting off the throttle. Axle wrap can also occur during deceleration, such as hard braking.

Last edited by liqour crazy; Sep 22, 2012 at 07:06 PM.
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Old Sep 22, 2012 | 09:51 PM
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Like asked earlier, how far dropped is the t case. There is a bushing and pivot point that is bolted to the inside of the trans tunnel on the jeep. Part of the shift linkage slides into this to reverse the rotation between the t case and the shifer. This bushing pivot point is usually level with another bushing on the t case when it is in stock position. If the t case is dropped too far, the bushings dont line up, and the linkage gets all misaligned in there and binds. If you need to drop your t case more then 1" to fix driveline vibes then you need to do an SYE kit.

Also, maybe the original owner did know much about driveline vibes, maybe they kept dropping the t case more and more to try and fix the problem when the real problem is you pinion angle. On a rig with single u joints on the axle (no double cardon joint) the pinion angle should be PARALLEL with the output of the case. Most will point it down a little more slightly to compensate for axle wrap when the rear axle is under load.
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Old Sep 22, 2012 | 10:32 PM
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Lead foot the case is only dropped like an inch and my t case linkage isnt even hooked up its under the back seat. Almost sounds like the trans or motor is shifting when u let the clutch out there is a thumping noise too.
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Old Sep 22, 2012 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by landtortise
Lead foot the case is only dropped like an inch and my t case linkage isnt even hooked up its under the back seat. Almost sounds like the trans or motor is shifting when u let the clutch out there is a thumping noise too.
I know it's not hooked up... I explained to you why it probably isn't. It's Not because it's too short. You asked what needs to be done to get 4wd working... HOOK UP THE LINKAGE.

Fix the problems you KNOW exist and how to solve, then see if the other issues still occur. Fix your pinion angle (if you have checked it and think its wrong), you still haven't told us what it looks like compared to the t case, just that its "almost flat". sounds like you think it needs to be pointed up more.

You said you believe they did an add a leaf. Did they put the clips back on the leafs to hold the pack together? If not, this can make it easier for the axle wrap. Running 33s, what axle gears? It is possible that Liquor Crazy is correct in just needing some more throttle on take off.

Last edited by Lead Foot; Sep 22, 2012 at 10:54 PM.
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 03:16 AM
  #10  
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Sounds like clutch issue ...
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Sounds like clutch issue ...
Like a contaminated clutch plate. Oil from a valve cover leak would do it.
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 09:09 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Jamie57
Like a contaminated clutch plate. Oil from a valve cover leak would do it.
possible ,or replacing clutch but not having fly wheel resurfaced.
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 06:56 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Sounds like clutch issue ...
bingo. oil soaked clutch from a vc or rms leak...just like mine. i fixed the leaks in mine but the shudder is still there cause the clutch is new (not spending money on a new one yet!) and the flywheel was perfect...also my motor mounts are probably done so i think it accentuates the chatter. jmho.
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 11:56 PM
  #14  
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From: Shoshone, ID
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I have an oil leak from theback idiot po putting a nipple.and tee off the sensor port so.he could run an aux gauge that reads exactly what the factory one reads which was still hooked up btw. All together possible not real thrilled about doing a clutch so i.guess ill just deal with the shudder.
Btw here are pics of the pinion angle and dline angle

couple ?'s (Spring hop and t-case drop)-forumrunner_20120923_225554.jpg



couple ?'s (Spring hop and t-case drop)-forumrunner_20120923_225610.jpg
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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 01:18 PM
  #15  
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that last pic does not look right to me...looks like the slip yoke is about to fall right out.
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