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Closed to open radiator cooling stystem

Old Oct 8, 2014 | 05:22 PM
  #16  
Pelican's Avatar
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From: Texas
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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You said the temp gauge never went on so I assumed you meant it wasn't working.


'93 rad doesn't have a switch for the e-fan so where do you have that plugged in? There are threads with info about these conversions. I don't recall but assume others have mounted a switch in one of the hoses.


I thought maybe you were using the cap off the old closed system rad. (in fact I guess we didn't what rad you were using.) Caps for the open system are cheap and more complex than they seem at first glance. You might try a new one if the old one refuses to open. I don't know what the statistics say, but my '93 rarely overflows little, if any, coolant into the overflow bottle at engine shut off. More I would assume if the system was really overheated.
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 05:44 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Pelican
You said the temp gauge never went on so I assumed you meant it wasn't working. '93 rad doesn't have a switch for the e-fan so where do you have that plugged in? There are threads with info about these conversions. I don't recall but assume others have mounted a switch in one of the hoses. I thought maybe you were using the cap off the old closed system rad. (in fact I guess we didn't what rad you were using.) Caps for the open system are cheap and more complex than they seem at first glance. You might try a new one if the old one refuses to open. I don't know what the statistics say, but my '93 rarely overflows little, if any, coolant into the overflow bottle at engine shut off. More I would assume if the system was really overheated.
It might not have been off a 93' but it had a hole for the original temperature switch. It just had a plug in it and I took it out and the switch screwed in perfectly. My old 89' radiator never had a radiator cap or a place to put one. Thanks for the help though
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 08:52 PM
  #18  
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You sure you ran it long enough to heat up and open the tstat? Was the top hose hot? For the initial run, leave the rad cap off and keep the rad filled before and after the tstat opens and the top hose is hot. If youre idling it could take 10-15 min or even more in cold weather.
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 12:27 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by tom0826
You sure you ran it long enough to heat up and open the tstat? Was the top hose hot? For the initial run, leave the rad cap off and keep the rad filled before and after the tstat opens and the top hose is hot. If youre idling it could take 10-15 min or even more in cold weather.
Ok thanks. I live in Hawaii so it's pretty warm here. I'm also working on my brakes at the moment so I can't take it for a test drive yet. But when I do I'll let you guys know how it goes 👍👍
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 01:15 AM
  #20  
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Once you start it, bleed the head ... unscrew the temp sensor on the back of the head until coolant comes out. Tighten back up, and check hoses. I usually add a bleed valve to my upper rad hose because I'm and impatient old fart.
The 4.0 head has a nasty habit of getting airlock from time to time.
You can replace both heater hoses with direct runs of 5/8" heater hose direct from pump/thermo to the core.
My first coolant recovery bottle was a Fast Orange bottle modified for duty and jammed between the fender and the airbox (worked great until I added a 92 bottle and bracketry).
I only did my conversion (1.5yrs ago) because my stock rad was crumbling to dust and the pressure bottle had more cracks than I could count.
Recently added a late model water tube and an HO thermo housing (moved the ECT there as well)
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 02:04 PM
  #21  
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Alright thanks man! I'll do that
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