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caster adjustment and bump steer

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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 04:27 AM
  #16  
BRN2KL's Avatar
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From: Elizabethtown, KY
Year: 92 XJ (RIP)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6
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Originally Posted by SDC
Shims in the lowers will push the control arms out making them longer rotating the pinion yoke down.

You need to find a happy middle ground between caster and pinion angle.
At this point I want correct caster over pinion angle. DS removes pretty easy, so I can run without it until I head off road if I need to. Although bump steer and a wandering front end sucks! It SUCKS BAD!
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 06:55 AM
  #17  
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From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Well then pretty much your only choices are to cut up and shorten your new lowers or buy aftermarket uppers... Or of course my personal favorite, ditch the whole short arm set up and go long arm 3 link.

Shimming the rear axle is honestly going to be a guessing game unless you have a nice Digital level. Actually, the iPhone has a digital level app that works decent if you have an iPhone.
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 08:02 AM
  #18  
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From: Elizabethtown, KY
Year: 92 XJ (RIP)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6
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Lead foot thanks for the advice. How are on road manners of a 3 link? I have heard mixed reviews. Undoubtedly a 3 link is a sweet set up for off road, but I spend a majority of my time on the interstate and don't want to sacrifice on road performance.
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 08:32 AM
  #19  
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From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Anyone that says a 3 links is less stable on road than a 4 link has never ran a 3 link on or off road and is just making assumptions to justify the setup they are currently running (in this case, not a 3 link). lol That is what I have honestly usually found anyways.

I have daily driven every single one of my XJs, even the ones that I have competed in events with. After installation of our 3 link, track bar, and steering; I, as well as friends that have driven my rigs, and customers of ours with similar setups have all agreed that the lifted Jeep feels like it handles better than stock. And I dont even run sway bars.

The nice thing about a 3 link, or even a true 4 link is that it will give you full adjustability of your front axle with a simple turnbuckle style adjustement. You can lengthen and shorten your upper and lower control arms which gives you control over caster and front to back position of your tires in the wheel wells at the same time.

Kris Froehlich

Last edited by Lead Foot; Mar 19, 2013 at 08:34 AM.
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 10:18 AM
  #20  
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
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I run a radius arm setup that's more stable than stock at 70mph, and it's not as stable as a true 3 link done right is going to be.
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