Another key with 35s is the offset rims.... IF YOU DONT HAVE A GOOD OFFSET YOU WILL BLOW THROUGH BEARINGS

 

There is a huge difference in tire. Even between my 44lb 33's and 60lb 33's there was a massive power difference. Those KM2's you are looking at weigh in at 60lbs and add the extra rolling resistance of being a taller tire. You are going to reek hell with your transmission on the freeway not to mention be a dog for power. With my heavy TSL's it was easier to just lock out of OD on the freeway, otherwise it shifted every single time the road grading changed or I looked at the gas pedal. I got 12MPG with those on and 15-18MPG with the 44lb Coopers. Both sets of tires were mounted on aluminum rims. So lighter than what you have now as well...

Don't run a 10" rim. Stick to the 8" one you have now if its good enough for 33x12.50's its good enough for 35x12.50's

You should clear fine measured out mine clears fine with 5" in the front and 4" in the back.

Like everyone else has said this makes no sense together please slow down and proofread a little bit before posting it makes it easier for people to help you.




Could you phrase that any worse?

35's will eat through unit bearings with a heavily offset rim. Meaning I would not run a 15x10" at all or even a 15x8" with less than 3.75" of backspacing. Some people do it and get away without eating unit bearings, more power to them I don't feel you should really chance it with 35's on a stock D30.

 

I don't think you realize how much of a power and mileage difference it's going to be. I have 3.73s and 35s and drive it a lot on the street. It SUCKS. I put 33" boggers on for mud drags and even a quick ride down the street it felt like it picked up 50hp, it actually got out of its own way. Even being a heavy bogger, just 2" of tire made a huge difference. I can't even imagine having 3.55s if my 3.73s are this bad. I can say I've never had a problem turning them off-road though. I just always use low range, never felt a need to regear on the trails or mud. I will definitely be regearing asap though.
Agreed. The 35x12.50 km2s work great on an 8" rim

 

I'm considering the 35 Km2's on my rig, and I'm starting to realize that the cost of the swap won't be just in the bigger tire, mounting, and balancing. I'm going to need to upgrade my steering. I've already regeared to a 4.56:1 ratio and my AW4 has a secondary ATF fan cooler (runs at 160 all the time) so the drivetrain can handle 32's with ease. But even with the Durango steering box the toothpick geometry of the front end is going to need replacement. That $ adds up.

In my case though, I lost a good amount of ground clearance with the Ford 8.8, so 35's make a little more sense to get that pumpkin a smidge higher. Right? Nonetheless, I picked up a 32 and lifted a 35 next to it to compare their sizes and the 35 is quite a hefty donut. You guys out there that throw 40's on are bonkers.

 

Your saying 35s on a 30 with chromo shafts locked is to big? I think 9 inches for 35s is way to big as well. Does it matter what you or I think? No.

 

Sounds like you're set up really well for 35s. Just buy a 1-ton steering setup and you'll be mint. I'd also suggest bracing the unibody around the steering box. The kits are cheap.

 

Even easier if you have an after market bumper. Then just the inner brace which is easily made or like stated cheap to buy.

 

35's will be fine. I prefer them on an 8" rim, but thats also because I like to air down low.
I ran it on stock gears for about 2 weeks before I regeared. even in low range it felt like it was in high. You had to load the crap out of it to go up anything. I couldnt even imagine trying to wheel it how we do with stock gears. I dont think the trans would have lasted the day.